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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fridge not cooling
    Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 9:48am
Do not use a wire brush to clean the orifice. Use 93% isopropyl alcohol or denatured alcohol to clean the orifice. Compressed air works for the burner slots, but a soft brush with some alcohol wouldn't hurt there either.

For the flue, remove the top angled cap of the stack. You can then pull the spiral insert out and clean it. If you can get a bore brush down into the stack, you could brush that out. Otherwise, compressed air. Once things are clean (use a light and mirror to check),

One more step may be needed given the age of the trailer. Disconnect the propane line at the refrigerator and at the regulator. Place a container under the end of the hose at the regulator end. Use compressed air to blow the oily residue out of the propane line. I've done this a couple of times when my refrigerator was not working well. Reconnect, leak test, and purge the lines. It may take several cycles for the refrigerator burner to light as that branch of the line will need to purge the air also.

If all goes well, your refrigerator should be back to working well on propane again.
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2020 at 5:38am
Update at 6:30 this morning.  Running fridge on shore power since 7 pm last night.  Inside temp - middle shelf reads 36 degrees, freezer made ice as well.  So it comes to how to properly clean orifice, combustion area and flue stack.  Compressed air and wire brush to clean?  What diameter wire brush?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2020 at 7:59pm
Thanks OG.  Checked for yellowish/green residue.  None seen, still looks nearly new except for some road dust.  No ammonia smell, been sniffin' around the back of fridge for the past 20 minutes, neighbors think I must be crazy, sniffin' around like that!LOL
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2020 at 7:23pm
Any residue around the coils or burner? The sodium chromite they put in with the ammonia to reduce corrosion leaves a yellowish/green residue. Ammonia smell? 

Around 10 years is about the typical life of a RV fridge so you're about the right age for a replacement cycle. I guess the way to look at it if it needs to be replaced is that it doesn't owe you anything at this point. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2020 at 7:19pm
Have you tried not on propane?
Mike Carter
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2020 at 6:52pm
No, just returned home and turned it all the way to 5 dots (coldest) it now reads 73 inside, flame is still running a nice blue, stack is hot, and muffin fans are humming away. What I will do now, thanks for the thought, is turn off the propane and try the 110.  Will report back in a few hours.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2020 at 6:47pm
Not cooling in any mode?
Mike Carter
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2020 at 6:43pm
Fortunately this came at the end of our getaway to the U.P this morning.  Our fridge is out of our 2011 177 which we have owned since March 2011.  This morning it was very warm inside, 72 degrees which was even warmer than the outside temp of 60.  It was on the 4th of 5 dots, nearly the coldest it can go.  Checked the stack, it was very warm (normal) also the combustion chamber - nice blue flame (normal) and heard the bi-metal switch kick on the muffin fans last night when it was 82 outside (normal).  So I see no obvious leak on the back side of the refrigerator.  Is there any way to recharge this or since it is approaching 10 years of age, am I looking at replacing?  Just used it a couple weeks ago at the Traverse City R-Pod Rally and it performed flawlessly and was very cold inside.   Thank you all for your advice. 
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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