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Topic ClosedPower Light while on DC power

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Buffalohunter View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Oct 2019
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Power Light while on DC power
    Posted: 12 Aug 2020 at 3:44pm
Mjlrpod...you got it right thanks mucho...I pulled the plate from the wall then did as you said. The little red light goes off and on but the tv stays the same...no effect on the channel. Then I removed the grey cable and no tv action no channel and the red light on the booster was out. So the cable for the tv runs in the overhead across the bathroom to the front bed wall area. At least I solved that problem. So now I need to replace satellite/tv switch. Any thoughts...thanks so much for the helpđź‘Ťđź‘Ť
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2020 at 7:16pm
So it’s a winegard 7542...somewhere around $30...still searching for a cheaper price, but is it really worth it in the long run? This is a 2020 and they couldn’t even put in a switch that works...at least for 2 years?  Should have bought the extended warranty? Sold used...only 2 weeks off the lot then returned for a larger unit. Oh well the pod still serves its purpose and is fun. For now the light is out.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 10:18am
Not sure why I have a battery drain with everything off...I just put main battery cut off... any other insights most appreciated
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 10:55am
There are many things that have a parasitic draw like: the CO2 alarm, the antenna booster (if not turned off), the tank level indicators, the radio, and tv. Also the brake break away switch if it tripped will drain the battery quickly.  Your newly installed main battery cut off will shut all these down if you installed it up front by the battery (ies).

Hope this helps.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2020 at 11:20am
Thanks.. put a disconnect switch on the negative battery terminal. Didn’t even think of the other transient pulls mentioned...thanks!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 7:17am
I would put it on the positive side of the battery and remember to get a switch large enough to handle the amperage you are using (minimum would be 30 amps).
Jay

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 7:37am
On RVs I use the negative. On motorized vehicles I will use either, the Old NHRA rules said it had to be on positive side. Half a dozen of one and 6 of the other.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 8:12am
Thanks!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 9:20am
No, disconnects, fuses, and circuit breakers should always go on the ungrounded conductors of any electrical system, never on the neutral (grounded) conductors. For 12Vdc systems that means the positive conductor get the fuses and disconnects. That is an National Electric Code requirement, which does apply to RVs. The reason is that if you disconnect the negative at the battery the whole negative side of the 12v circuit can be hot afterwards. Basically, you should wire up 12Vac systems just as you would a 120Vac system.

I think the confusion comes from the recommendation to disconnect the negative first when replacing or otherwise maintaining a battery. That is not inconsistent, once you lift the battery negative conductor you should also remove the positive.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 10:18am
Thanks OG, I'm happy the way I do things. The NEC is a fine "code", very iffy on RVs and jurisdiction is the responsibility of local authority, who can change or delete NEC guidelines. Basically I put the disconnect where it is most convenient and I don't have a preference.
Mike Carter
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