R-pod192 - Event Date: 22 Aug 2020

Welcome.

Its not unusual for rpod  trailer brakes to not be able to fully stop the rig, they are pretty small brake shoes.  If they pass the temp test slowing down the rig  from 40 or so to 15 a few times using the manual control then set your brake controller at max voltage and most aggressive action (B3 on Tekonsha) and try a longish downhill grade, using engine braking as appropriate. If the temp of all 6 brakes is similar then that's about the best you can do. If the trailer brakes are getting hotter than the TV brakes (especially the TV rears which tend to run the hottest on modern vehicles while towing) then back off to B2). An IR thermometer makes this this test pretty easy. 

The shop I took my vehicle to test the brake controller.  Took the trailer for a test drive with his own GMC Sierra. He had the same issue.  That’s how we determined it was the trailer that needed adjusting.  

Originally posted by ToolmanJohn  Adjusting the brake manually is actually pretty easy if you can lie on your back. Make sure the trailer cannot roll (wheel chocks or connected to the tow vehicle). Jack up the trailer side you want to adjust (get the tire off he ground). Behind the drum on the bottom there is a slot, sometimes a rubber boot on the slot, sometimes not. Shine a flashlight into the slot you should see the star wheel. Use a big flat blade screwdriver to adjust. Spin the trailer wheel. Adjust the star wheel until the tire drags a bit while spinning and you're done.  if you go the wrong way with the star adjuster for a full revolution or so, go the other way until you get drag. This describes adjustment when the brakes aren't self-adjusting. For self-adjusting brakes like the rPods have, there is a little locking tang keeping the adjusting star from backing off. If the brakes are too tight, you have to put two screwdrivers in the hole, a small one to move the tang up and out of the way, another to adjust the star itself.  The point is, don't overtighten the brakes and expect to easily back them off, be sure you're going the right direction. If the self adjustment system is working they should already be correctly adjusted anyway after making a few stops. Also, a brake adjusting spoon works better than a screwdriver, they're only a few bucks.  I have a dual axles, 4 drum brake trailer, and even adjusted for perfect drag, it will NOT lock up doing the manual break controller drag down test. Regardless of voltage output adjustment of the trailer break controller. But at 8 volts, I can use the manual brake control lever and it will stop me without using the tow vehicle brakes while heading down a decent steep hill. It takes a while though!! Braking distance is huge using only the trailer brakes!! If your trailer brakes are not locking up even at full voltage, that is the correct setting. In an emergency stop you want as much braking action as possible, which means as much as you can get without locking up. Once a wheel locks up its braking action is reduced.  So, set the max voltage based on the "incipient lockup" procedure, and if you still can't lock up at full voltage, which is the case for most rPods, leave the controller set at full voltage.  The "boost" adjustment is the one to use to get the level of braking you want depending on conditions. That sets how aggressively the trailer brakes are energized when you decelerate or descend a grade. If I'm going down some long grades I set that higher so the trailer brakes do more of the work (and use engine braking as much as possible) On the flats I set it lower.   When you stop with firm tow vehicle pedal pressure, the trailer should feel like you are getting pushed heavily. The R-Pod should take care of itself pretty well. If you are stopping aggressively and the trailer is pushing the TV then the max voltage setting on the controller is probably set too low. That pushing is not good as it means your emergency stops will be longer than they could be.  AS always YouTube has a million great videos on how to adjust brakes and what to check. A newer trailer shouldn't have any pad wear yet, but some break-in of the pads will be needed, maybe a couple dozen firm stops to bed them in. Good Luck!!

Thanks for the info.