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Topic ClosedWinterizing no pink in hot water lines

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foadman View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Winterizing no pink in hot water lines
    Posted: 23 Mar 2021 at 2:02pm
What is your RPOD model and what model tehford toilet did you purchase?

Need same fis for my DW
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2020 at 10:52am
In answer to Offgrid - all my plumbing was done with the cheaper crimps.  I recently had a leak under my sink, and used a combination of sharkbites and the clamp rings to fix it, along with some new Tees.  Two of the connections were not accessible with the borrowed crimping tool, so I had to use the sharkbites instead. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 7:48pm
Originally posted by offgrid

Glad it’s worked out for you.

I would leave the old bypass open in winter just to be sure any condensation that might get collected in it drains into the water heater tank. In summer close it so it doesn’t create a hot to cold “short circuit”.

Thanks again!  Will Do!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 5:08pm
Glad it’s worked out for you.

I would leave the old bypass open in winter just to be sure any condensation that might get collected in it drains into the water heater tank. In summer close it so it doesn’t create a hot to cold “short circuit”.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2020 at 4:58pm
CharlieM Tars Offgrid

MANY THANKS!  DONE!  I went with SharkBite as the local store did not have the crimping tool available to use the PEX crimps/clamps. I added the new bypass around the corner, a bit further from the regular shutoffs to cold/hot than ideal, but had no choice based on space needed.  

After draining all of the water, and blowing out the lines with air, I added in the new bypass. She passed the pink test! Pink out of both low point drains, closed 'em up; pink out of both cold and hot individually in the kitchen and bathroom. Thanks again for all of your support!

Winterized and confident :)
One last question:   Do I now leave the original (useless) bypass closed permanently, regardless of the season?

THANK YOU
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 11:59am
I just winterized and had the same problem with the anti-freeze not coming through the lines to the sink and the problem was I forgot to put one of the two sets of low point drain caps on and it all got pumped out and fast, and felt like a fool! I assume the same will happen when another tap is left open. Lucky the stuff is only a couple bucks a gallon at walmart!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 10:58am
Offgrid

Thanks!  I'll see if I can find the supplies locally to do it today. Otherwise, in the spring...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 9:38am
Originally posted by ampete

I'm rethinking postponing the plumbing project till spring.  

If I were to do it now, can I tackle it after the steps of draining the fresh water, hot water and low drains? Good time to work on the new bypass?



Yes, its a good time, either now or in the spring before de-winterizing. Your choice. If you do it now, leave the existing bypass open for the winter so it drains once you have the new one installed. Then close it in the spring for the season. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 9:21am
I'm rethinking postponing the plumbing project till spring.  

If I were to do it now, can I tackle it after the steps of draining the fresh water, hot water and low drains? Good time to work on the new bypass?


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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 8:14am
Originally posted by offgrid

The objection to auto antifreeze for plumbing is that it attracts animals and is toxic and bactericidal. So, don't put it on food surfaces but also don't put it on the ground or in a septic system. So where do you drain it safely?  It also costs more than RV antifreeze so why use it for a purpose for which it isn't intended?



Noted. Thanks.
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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