Solar Questions

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   There’s no harm done putting a fuse on the solar side of the controller, so go for it if you want. Just sayin’ you don’t have to. While the “waterproof” Renogy controllers are rated to IP67, which includes testing for short water immersions up to 1 meter, the terminals themselves aren’t protected so adding an additional box isn't going to hurt either.

I think you’ve done a great job on you solar system and it should work well for you,

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offgrid Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290	Post Options Post Reply Quote offgrid Report Post Quote Reply Topic: Solar Questions Posted: 03 Mar 2021 at 7:14pm
	There’s no harm done putting a fuse on the solar side of the controller, so go for it if you want. Just sayin’ you don’t have to. While the “waterproof” Renogy controllers are rated to IP67, which includes testing for short water immersions up to 1 meter, the terminals themselves aren’t protected so adding an additional box isn't going to hurt either. I think you’ve done a great job on you solar system and it should work well for you,
	1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold

chasl Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 04 Mar 2021 Location: New Mexico Online Status: Offline Posts: 30	Post Options Post Reply Quote chasl Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 05 Mar 2021 at 10:45pm
	I bought a 196 pre-wired and plan to add solar. I purchased go-power overlander kit, which has the solar panel and the solar controller. I plan to mount on top. If you or others have done this, I would appreciate reading your advice, steps, and such for installing the kit. I am handy, but haven't done this before.
	cl

offgrid Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290	Post Options Post Reply Quote offgrid Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 06 Mar 2021 at 7:13am
	I haven’t done this particular install but the most challenging part is always properly installing the module on the RV roof. The electrical is easy once you find the wires in the location for the controller which by several accounts from other owners are not labeled. I think the go power kit uses z brackets to attach the module, which is good as it allows cooling airflow underneath. You’ll need to know what you’re attaching to on the roof structure, you can get several hundred lbs of wind uplift. There are some good videos showing how the original smaller rpod roofs are made but I’m not sure they apply to the newer larger rpods. Here is one FWIW: https://youtu.be/vMXneKc_fDo
	1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold

Rana Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 02 Sep 2018 Location: Canmore Online Status: Offline Posts: 29	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rana Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 30 May 2021 at 4:25pm
	Hi Offgrid, I have the zamp connection at the back of my 2015 RP179, and two taped cables up at the batteries marked "Solar". We have two 6v golf cart batteries installed. I gather from your earlier reply that the two "Solar" cables up front only go back to the zamp connector at the rear and no where else? I note your suggestion about connecting directly at the batteries, but, when connecting the "Solar" wires to the battery for solar charging do I have to disconnect the two wires that are already connected to the batteries and go back into the chassis, presumably to the Electrical distribution box? As you recommended I can get an inline fuse to fix to the zamp cable positive line at the battery end. Thanks so much for your time, Stay well and stay healthy, Rana.
	Rana Stay well and stay healthy in these difficult times.

offgrid Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290	Post Options Post Reply Quote offgrid Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 30 May 2021 at 4:45pm
	Rana, yes the two wires should only go to the zamp connector, unless of course someone has made a modification to the trailer at done point. I would disconnect the two larger wires which go to the chassis (negative) and to the fuse box (positive) while working on getting the solar connected. Disconnect the negative first, it prevents accidentally shorting your tools to the rpod chassis when you disconnect the positive. After the solar is connected reconnect the two larger wires in the reverse order, pos first, then neg.
	1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold

Rana Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 02 Sep 2018 Location: Canmore Online Status: Offline Posts: 29	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rana Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 30 May 2021 at 4:57pm
	Thanks for the speedy reply, especially at the weekend, very much appreciated! I'll do as you suggest about the disconnection of the two main wires, and then connect the solar wires, and then reconnect the main wires. I am presuming that the main wires can stay connected until the battery charging is complete and I take the solar wires off, or pull out the plug at the rear?? There is no mention of a charging controller in my package that came with the portable panels, will I need to get one? Thanks so much, again, Rana
	Rana Stay well and stay healthy in these difficult times.

offgrid Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290	Post Options Post Reply Quote offgrid Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 30 May 2021 at 5:54pm
	Yes you will need a charge controller for your solar module. That will go in between the solar and the battery. You can mount it either on the solar module or near the battery. Once you have the solar connected up and operating and have reconnected the trailer wires you can leave them connected. You can leave the solar connected too and unplug it when you want to move camp, then plug in again when you set up camp.
	1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold

JR Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 31 Aug 2018 Location: Manistee, MI Online Status: Offline Posts: 344	Post Options Post Reply Quote JR Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 30 May 2021 at 6:54pm
	+1 to offgrids instructions. If you have purchased a solar panel portable system referred to as a suitcase, because it folds up like a suitcase, it should already have a charge controller included in the equipment. The charge controller is normally mounted on the back of one of the solar panels. If you have assembled all the parts of the system yourself you do need to have a charge controller in the system. The other thing to be careful of is when you are using the Zamp wiring included on the trailer make sure the positive from the solar panels is actually going to the positive battery terminal. When you use different manufactures for different parts of your solar system the wiring (+ & -) may not be compatible or wired the same. Hope this helps and have fun.
	Jay 179/2019

Rana Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 02 Sep 2018 Location: Canmore Online Status: Offline Posts: 29	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rana Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 4:33pm
	Thanks so much offgrid and JR, your advice was spot on, I followed it to the letter and now have a functioning solar charging system. We have a suitcase two panel system that came with a controller and the appropriate connector and correctly sized wiring. Thanks again, your expertise saved me from making a costly mistake. Rana.
	Rana Stay well and stay healthy in these difficult times.

Mooree Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 17 Jan 2022 Location: USA Online Status: Offline Posts: 25	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mooree Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 10 Mar 2022 at 5:01am
	To upgrade a solar RV requires a certain amount of solar energy. I use the appliance energy approach to determine my RV's solar requirements and see how much solar I need for my RV? All electrical equipment has an energy rating expressed in watts and amps. You'll want to check each device's watt-hour rating and list them down. Next, it is important to determine how many hours you plan to operate each piece of equipment. Multiply each appliance's wattage rating by the number of hours the device will be in use.