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Direct Link To This Post Topic: New Owner - Used 176
    Posted: 17 Dec 2020 at 10:15am
JR has a good point. To be clear, an adapter like he is describing which goes from a lower rated receptacle to a higher rated cable is safe. You might trip a breaker using it but it won’t catch fire. An adapter that takes a higher rated receptacle to a lower rated cable is unsafe because the breaker on that circuit may not trip before the cable overheats.
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2020 at 8:25am
Double check to ensure that an adaptor is not installed on the shore power end of your shore power cord.  If that cord is heavy (10 gauge wire) "I think" that your trailer is wired for 30 amp service which you should definitely verify.  The adaptors that allow a 30 amp shore power cord to be plugged into a 20 amp home outlet can be very deceiving a "look" like they are part of the shore power cord when in fact the adaptor is removable.   Hope this helps 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2020 at 8:20pm
Batteries dying in the cold weather around the first few cold snaps is a common experience so people have probably naturally inferred that cold is bad without realizing that heat is what ages them. Good information to know that isn't the case.

There is indeed a three pin connector on one end of the cable, which was somewhat surprising as mentioned. May have been more common back then or an option if some people thought they would plugged into standard outlets at home or at the lake most often? I have no idea though, just guessing.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2020 at 6:05pm
Contrary to popular belief cold is good for batteries. They are filled with sulfuric acid and constantly chemically corroding from day one. Chemical reactions are accelerated dramatically at higher temps. So if you live in the UP of MI you will get much longer battery life than if you live in FL or AZ. The reason batteries tend to ultimately die in cold weather is because the chemical reactions which release energy from them are slowed down then as well. So batteries age in hot weather but tend to die in the cold. Bottom line is, don’t expect long battery life in a warmer climate. And the idea that placing batteries on concrete is bad is a myth.

If you really have a 25 amp connector on your cable then it’s only good for 25A, not 30. You don’t want to run 30A through it via an adapter, it can overheat. Get a proper 30A cable and connector.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2020 at 4:07pm
Thanks Jato. That's pretty impressive battery life for 10 year old batteries.

I had pretty low expectations for batteries sitting in my case, but I was probably biased as most of my experience for seasonally used battteries was based on 6v motorcycle batteries and they have a pretty short life if not managed closely.

Side question, but I note that my shore power cord has a 20amp plug on the shore end. I would have guessed that it would be 30amp plug just like on the rv end but maybe in the early 2010's they came with a 20amp? Anyways, it easier for plugging in at home but I assume that a 30 amp adapter would be useful for campground usage. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2020 at 3:19pm
Agree, the smoke detector runs off a 9v battery whereas the CO detector is hardwired to the 12v as JR stated above.

Just checked my two 12v batteries that are currently sitting on the concrete floor in an unheated garage where it is currently -8 C.  They have sat in that location for 6 weeks since getting their last 2 amp trickle charge on October 30 and November 1.  Readings are 12.59v and 12.71v.  The 12.59v battery has a purchase date of December 2010 and the 12.71v battery was purchased March 2011 so it looks pretty good so far for a couple of 'seasoned' batteries.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2020 at 9:04am
Great suggestions for practical testing, will do, thanks.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2020 at 9:02am
Hi JR,

Thanks, that helps clarify. I was assuming that both were on the 12v system, but good to know at least on your model only the propane/CO detector is. I'll check mine but assume the same.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2020 at 9:00am
Good to know to wait for a bit to determine actual charge. 

Overnight with cool temps some slight reduction in both (12.56 and 12.65) but will take them in for proper testing. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2020 at 8:55am
Originally posted by StephenH

Battery testing just off a charger is not the most accurate. That is surface charge. The one where it sat for an hour or two before you tested is the more accurate test. https://www.autozone.com/diy/battery/how-to-test-a-car-battery-with-a-multimeter
The 12.6V reading indicates a good battery. However, it still would not hurt to take it to an auto place and have them put a load tester on it. That will be much more accurate than just a multimeter.


+1 on allowing the battery to rest at open circuit (no charging or discharging) for awhile before measuring the voltage. Also, don’t worry about voltage differences of 0.1 or 0.2V, those are within normal battery variations. The test in the link is good for an auto starting battery which isn’t expected to deep cycle, but for a deep cycle battery like you would use in an Rpod you should pull some charge out of it and then check it. The easiest way is to first get the battery fully charged for a day or two with no load. Then let it rest for a half hour or more and measure the voltage. Then turn on the fridge on 12V for a known period of time. The fridge uses about 11-12 amps so if you run it for 4 hours that’s 44-48 amp hours, so about 45% state of charge on a typical 100 amp hour rated battery.

Turn off all loads and let the battery rest of another half hour to and hour. Measure the voltage again, it should be at or a bit over 12V. If not it’s probably getting to the point you want to replace it if you plan on boon docking much. Be sure to recharge the battery again right away, don’t leave it discharged for any length of time.
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