Possible replacement for the A/C |
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Seanl
Senior Member Joined: 19 Sep 2011 Location: Fredericton NB Online Status: Offline Posts: 633 |
Topic: Possible replacement for the A/C Posted: 07 Jul 2012 at 5:13pm |
I just took apart an old window unit I had.The control section its the only part that wound have to be sealed.I think that I would mount them in a waterproof electrical box.
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Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 08 Jul 2012 at 12:35pm |
Hmm, something to ponder.
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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XJ2202009
Newbie Joined: 07 Feb 2012 Online Status: Offline Posts: 11 |
Posted: 08 Jul 2012 at 2:41pm |
I would just mount them in a plastic case inside the camper and run the wires out
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2011 176T
06 Trailblazer ext ls, 4x4 wife, 4 kids |
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Keith-N-Dar
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 03 Apr 2011 Location: Mayville, WI Online Status: Offline Posts: 1447 |
Posted: 08 Jul 2012 at 2:49pm |
We don't have air in our house, but run a window unit in the bedroom. This morning I hooked up the Pod to the generator and turned on the air. It is quieter than the window unit, and the compressor starts with no thump or bump. I can tell when it is running, but just from a sound change. I also wanted to troubleshoot the television. I haven't gotten reception the last three trips and knew I would get reception at home. The first two trys no go. Then I pushed the little light that used to be lit on the back of the cabinet to tell me that the antenna was powered, and it clicked! A switch! Then all the stations I could use. Go figure. Maybe by the third season I will know how to run this camper...
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Keith-N-Dar
Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
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ka9nyn
Newbie Joined: 13 Jul 2011 Location: Chamberlain, SD Online Status: Offline Posts: 8 |
Posted: 08 Jul 2012 at 4:34pm |
My concern, perhaps already addressed: Can this unit/system handle the vibration, etc. from road travel, in the short & long term? It appears to be designed for static installations. Just a thought...
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Dave & Rose
RP177 "ECM-Pod" '08 Dodge RAM quad cab 5.7L 4WD "Rhino (re: F-4 Phantom)" Chamberlain, SD (Formerly: Rockford, IL) 2010 RP 177 |
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 09 Jul 2012 at 10:27pm |
I would be willing to find out by using a $200 window shaker and reconfiguring it. Not sure I would want to try with that $600 thing. But they do suggest using it with a small RV...
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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plains
Newbie Joined: 09 Jul 2012 Online Status: Offline Posts: 25 |
Posted: 09 Jul 2012 at 10:42pm |
Has anyone noticed the the vent under the bathroom door? To my knowledge, it doesn't actually serve a purpose (other than access and possibly keeping that space somewhat conditioned?). I wonder if there would be a way to run a duct from a unit mounted on the tongue, under the dinette in the storage space, (assuming yours in the front like mine), and to this vent? Seems like a pretty clean install, and the only thing left to figure out would be how to remove the controls from the unit on the tongue and mount them in the interior.
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Seanl
Senior Member Joined: 19 Sep 2011 Location: Fredericton NB Online Status: Offline Posts: 633 |
Posted: 10 Jul 2012 at 7:13am |
The only issue with moving the controls is that the thermostat on most window units has a temperature probe that goes in front of the cooling coils. This probe is only about 24 inches long and I don't know if it can be extended. I looks like a thin copper pipe. Also just to note. I have had a window unit in my homemade trailer for 4 years with no issue. Also some tent popups and other small commercial trailers have window units in them.
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Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 10 Jul 2012 at 7:32am |
That vent helps to remove any moisture, and to prevent freeze-ups in cold weather. I've thought about cutting a hole in the floor under there and mounting a biscuit fan, to push fresh air into the cabin during boondocking trips. Without A/C you have to leave the windows (and vent) cracked to prevent moisture buildup but that is difficult when it rains. No reason you couldn't do the same for an A/C like you said. I would use that as the air return and put the cold air output somewhere else, up high. Maybe use a removeable hose attached to something that would let you use one of the front windows. That would eliminate the need to make a hole in the exterior where it is visible, so if you sell in the future you could remove the whole thing and you would never know.
Edit: In my case, with a 171, I might run another pipe underneath and run it up behind the fridge and microwave, venting it from the storage area above the microwave. Very close to the existing A/C. However, as a proof of concept I would just use vents through the windows first. Wouldn't add much extra setup time in camp - but knowing me I would keep that as a permanent solution!
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 10 Jul 2012 at 7:44am |
Since you would still have a return air supply coming from the camper maybe this wouldn't be a problem. ?
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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