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Camperisfordrinking View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 176 dual battery install - second opinion
    Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 6:04pm

Hello Everyone.  New member and finally decided to join after stalking for about a year.

I've got a 2018 176 that I drag around to Harvest Host locations. Let's face it, they hooked me at "Breweries, wineries and distilleries". Because we use HH so much I'm boondocking most of the time and found I was running out of power a lot. I have a Zamp suitcase unit that I hook into the side of the rig but I often don't have enough daylight to charge the battery. Did a bunch of research this winter and decided to upgrade my one 100A Deka deep cycle marine battery to a two unit system wired in parallel.

I had to custom order several cables because of course my cables were all 5/16 and the battery disconnect is 3/8. I used #4AWG between the batteries and leading to the disconnect and kept the original #8 leading to the chassis. What I'm looking for is anything you notice based on my schematic that doesn't make sense for the Pod or gotchas that someone ran into. Thanks in advance!
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 6:21pm
I am only a 'nominal' electric guy so i will pass that judgment to the 'experts' on this.  From what I see, it looks good.

I also own a pair of 12 volt batteries although I run each separately because they weren't purchased as a set together, they are nearly 4 months different in age.  Oldest is dated 12/2010 the newer is 03/2011 and one time I tried to run the fridge on battery and totally discharged the battery in about 4 hours.  They are both group size 24 deep cycle Interstates.

What I will add here even though you didn't ask is to be careful how much you discharge your batteries.  Maintenance is key to longevity.  Don't run them below 60% S.O.C. or 12.2 volts and maintain electrolyte levels with distilled water only.  We usually boondock as well so our batteries get a good workout every year and here they are 10 years old and still very dependable.

How old is your original battery?  I would be leery of hooking them together if your original is more than a few months older than the one you just purchased.
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 6:59pm
Looks fine. I’d add a fuse in the + line to your solar charge controller. 20A will do, and also consider a 40A switchable circuit breaker in the main battery + line rather than a disconnect switch. The closer your over current protection is the batteries the safer you are from any shorts than might occur downstream.

Jato is right about not connecting an aging or heavily cycled battery in parallel with a new one, they will be imbalanced. If you do get two new batteries, consider getting two 6 volt golf cart deep cycle batteries in series, they will tolerate discharging better than the Dekas.
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Camperisfordrinking View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 7:19pm
Thanks for the reply.  One of them is almost brand new and the other is about 2 years old. I'm going to replace the old one in a few weeks so the two batteries are almost identical in age. I've got a Noco smart charger/repair unit that I'm using every month or so while the batteries are in the garage for the winter. I'm even old school superstitious enough that I set the batteries on a 2x4 instead of on the concrete of the garage. That's probably an old-wives tale but it only took two seconds to get out a scrap 2x4.
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Camperisfordrinking View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 7:21pm
Thanks for the tip about the fuse in the + line to the solar charger. Hadn't thought about that. It came from FR without an inline fuse and I am quickly learning that they don't necessarily do things the right way all the time.
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Colt View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 10:10pm
Originally posted by Camperisfordrinking

Hello Everyone.  New member and finally decided to join after stalking for about a year.
I've got a 2018 176 that I drag around to Harvest Host locations. Let's face it, they hooked me at "Breweries, wineries and distilleries". Because we use HH so much I'm boondocking most of the time and found I was running out of power a lot. I have a Zamp suitcase unit that I hook into the side of the rig but I often don't have enough daylight to charge the battery. Did a bunch of research this winter and decided to upgrade my one 100A Deka deep cycle marine battery to a two unit system wired in parallel.
I had to custom order several cables because of course my cables were all 5/16 and the battery disconnect is 3/8. I used #4AWG between the batteries and leading to the disconnect and kept the original #8 leading to the chassis. What I'm looking for is anything you notice based on my schematic that doesn't make sense for the Pod or gotchas that someone ran into. Thanks in advance!


That will work, but you need some fuses in those new wires so they don't burn up on a short. Depending on the insulation temp rating, you'll want a 40A fuse in the 8 gauge wire including the line got the disconnect and 70A in the 4 gauge wire. Look up an ampacity chart for wire size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPKZS5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Maxi-Fuse/dp/B000XBCYF0/ref=pd_day0_3?pd_rd_w=WaVit&pf_rd_p=8ca997d7-1ea0-4c8f-9e14-a6d756b83e30&pf_rd_r=XG74JQNH977ECNSTV236&pd_rd_r=8e1bc5ce-df39-4563-b3a7-13e901e95b7d&pd_rd_wg=n2LSm&pd_rd_i=B01LBJOSP6&psc=1
John
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2021 at 6:53am
To clarify my fuse/ circuit breaker recommendations:

Your Renogy kit is likely 100 watts which has a short circuit current of 6A. Code requires you to multiply that by 1.56 to avoid nuisance trips and for enhanced output due to cloud reflection. That puts you at just below 10A. By going with 20A you could add a second solar module. The 8 awg wires themselves are good for 40A as Colt says so you could do that but it’s not necessary.n

The 8 awg positive wire to the rpod panel should be protected at 40A, that’s also what’s in the panel itself. That one can be a manual operated circuit breaker so you don’t also need a battery disconnect.

In large parallel battery banks you place a fuse in the positive output (assuming a negative ground system) of each parallel battery string, and then combine them at a separate connection point, like a dedicated bussbar or the input to the battery disconnect. I wouldn’t put a fuse in the negative jumper though because if that blows you’ve lost your ground reference. In practice no one does internal battery system fusing with a small dual battery system. You just use heavier gauge jumpers instead, and you’re already doing that. Another benefit of using 2 6V batteries in series is that the battery fuse/circuit breaker protects everything as there is only one current path.,
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1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2021 at 6:55am
Originally posted by Camperisfordrinking

I'm even old school superstitious enough that I set the batteries on a 2x4 instead of on the concrete of the garage. That's probably an old-wives tale but it only took two seconds to get out a scrap 2x4.


I chuckle when I see or hear of people doing that.  IF your battery is a 1940's build or earlier you MIGHT want to do that IF your battery has a wood case, otherwise it is as you say 'an old wives tale'

My current batteries are 10 years old and spend 5 months every year sitting directly on a concrete floor in a unheated garage.
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2021 at 7:47am
More like an old mechanic’s tale. The other battery type that didn’t do so well sitting on concrete was the old glass jar cells which had a tendency to break when not in a protective rack. Plastic cases solved all those problems.
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2021 at 8:00am
Originally posted by offgrid

More like an old mechanic’s tale. The other battery type that didn’t do so well sitting on concrete was the old glass jar cells which had a tendency to break when not in a protective rack. Plastic cases solved all those problems.


Please enlighten me OG.  Not familiar with that style of battery.  When were they in production and for what purpose did they serve?  I wouldn't think they would have ever been used in the auto industry as any old car I have ridden in rides kinda like a 'rock.'  Even my old '69 Vette was a rough rider.
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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