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Topic ClosedPorch Light Out after LED Strip Light Install Fail
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Joined: 16 Nov 2020
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Posts: 25 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Porch Light Out after LED Strip Light Install Fail
    Posted: 10 Apr 2021 at 7:39pm
Hey Folks
My 2010 175 has LED strip-lighting along the exterior bottom via lamp cord controlled by the porch light switch (not 100% sure) / remote control.  The strip stopped working so I got a replacement. As i was installing it under the POD I had the new strip lights on to help me see better. It got cut on a burr on the metal steps, changed color briefly, and then cut out. 

Ever since that, my LED porch light isn't working.

Note: I do have times when my porch light refuses to come on which I attribute to using LEDs. I have been on shore/12.6 battery and it's been a day I cannot get it to turn on. It has always been able to turn on after a few minutes / sometimes dimmed.

Swapped the bulb with a new. I pulled all fuses and tried a new fuse in all slots just for kicks. Oddly only 2 red light / fuse out indicators turned on when pulling the ~7 fuses. Reset all breakers. Tried on and off shore. My battery needs replacement but works fine for a day. All other lights and accessories work.

Using my multimeter I am not seeing power at the porch light switch terminals (actually see .0004 DC volts - which I presume is a leak) and the same at the back of the bulb. At the end of my lamp cord where it connects to the LED strip, I get .1 volts on the 4 pin which I suspect is sufficient - not sure until I get another set of LED strip lights but makes me question my memory that the porch switch controls it. 
 
Any help would be appreciated as I am running out of options. The maze of wiring in my wall behind my shower is over my pay grade. I have searched here/youtube and didn't find a solution. Thanks!
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2021 at 7:44am
Just asking a basic question first. Are you sure you have a good ground (-12v) reference when making your voltage measurements? That happens a lot as everything metallic outside winds up with corrosion on it.

Before troubleshooting further I'd suggest removing the led strip lights from the circuit and focusing on getting the porch light back in operation first. Less variables in the mix is better.

Then start verifying circuit continuity starting from the source and working your way to the light.

The leds in the panel not coming on is interesting. Try checking the voltage on the output side of each fuse to be sure you're getting 12v out to all the circuits.

Next I'd pull the porch light switch and check that's working properly and your getting stable 12v into it and out of it when it's on. They can go bad from internal corrosion and have to be replaced.

From there the next step is the light itself. But if you don't get 12v at each point along the way then you have an open in the wiring somewhere. Knowing FRs funky workmanship it's probably a loose connector, but it's also possible that you cooked off a connector or switch when you shorted the string lights to the frame.

1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
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Posts: 25 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2021 at 12:23pm
Good tips there- thanks. I think my grounds were good during my testing but who knows. I will try to scrap the metal bare.  I have had the LED strip disconnected since it died. It will be interesting to see if it works with my new strip coming tomorrow and will confirm if its controlled via my porch light switch. 

About the LED red lights next to my fuses, perhaps it must be under load to illuminate when the fuse is bad. I will test some more on that for sure. My Pod is 10 years old so the red lights being burned out / not functioning wouldn't totally surprise me. Testing volts at the fuse is my next step - thanks for that tip.

Something is amiss and I feel I definitely caused my current issue re the porch light. I pulled the connectors off the back of the switch so feel probes inside there should be a solid test. I will test again today and keep plugging away at it.

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Posts: 25 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2021 at 3:18pm
Update:  On battery while it read 12.6 (Battery does need replacement) I get measured 11.6 at the fuse for the porch light circuit.  On shore power, I get 12.6 at the fuse.  At the switch on shore power, I get .0004 using DC on my multi, and .15 using the AC setting. I had my probes inside both connectors. I presume connected to shore I should be using AC setting on my multi. On Battery I get nothing at the switch.

Indeed my fuse box only illuminates the red 'replace fuse' light if something on that circuit is turned on. My porch light circuit always shows red when I pull the fuse even with the porch switch off, so something else is using that circuit. My LED strip is fully disconnected and is just a connector at the end of my lamp cord so don't think that's it. I wonder what else is on that circuit... I cannot figure that out.

I should be getting 12.6V connected to the 2 wires going to the back of the switch, correct?

I disconnected my dying battery and on shore power nothing is different.

I presume to access the electrical proper I need to drop off the trim around the wall to gain access to the wiring / back of the shower.  Accessing the wiring using the existing cutouts is a pain and fear I will make things worse if a wire pops out of a nut that I cannot even see. I wonder if normal electricians will work on my Pod.

Tracing where the lamp cord goes seems a logical next step but damn that is tough to get to. I don't have much play in the wires.

Trying to not make things worse is a challenge for DIYers tackling new projects! 
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2021 at 3:39pm
Keep your meter on dc, the lights are all 12v. They are supplied by the battery charger from shore power when your connected to the grid, no need for the battery itself to be good or even connected. So since your battery or the wiring to it (sounds like the latter is a problem from what your describing), just leave shore power on while you're sorting out the light issue.

The switch would only connect/disconnect the +12v hot wire to the light so if there are only 2 wires you can get at there then connect your meter to ground/-12v and check the voltages again at the switch.

You could just have a bad power supply in the porch light led fixture (yes leds need power supplies) which is causing a leakage current to look like there are other loads on that circuit.

Keep going with your troubleshooting, you're doing fine.
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Posts: 25 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2021 at 5:55pm
Originally posted by offgrid

Keep your meter on dc, the lights are all 12v. They are supplied by the battery charger from shore power when your connected to the grid, no need for the battery itself to be good or even connected. So since your battery or the wiring to it (sounds like the latter is a problem from what your describing), just leave shore power on while you're sorting out the light issue.

The switch would only connect/disconnect the +12v hot wire to the light so if there are only 2 wires you can get at there then connect your meter to ground/-12v and check the voltages again at the switch.

You could just have a bad power supply in the porch light led fixture (yes leds need power supplies) which is causing a leakage current to look like there are other loads on that circuit.

Keep going with your troubleshooting, you're doing fine.


I fixed it in large part to your guidance. You opened my eyes to having a proper ground for testing. I realized I wasn't using a good ground, and used a ground on a 3 way outlet instead. Once I had a proper ground i found that I was indeed getting power at the back of porch light switch. Still no power at the porch light.

So I pulled the porch light fixture and wiggled the wires to help ID them in the maze in my chase. Once I found them, I pulled them slowly up towards my switch cutout. I eventually found a big electrical tape ball, which had an inline 10A fuse that was fried. Sure enough in there, was my lamp cord used for my strip lights.

The fuse was tight on the inside wall below the switch totally out of sight. I share that in hopes it helps others in the future.

Now i just need to make sure I don't cut my strip lighting wiring again going around my cast iron step. I will wait until that job is done before tucking the fuse/wiring back into the chase.

Thanks much!  
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SC for Huskers View Drop Down
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Posts: 144 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2021 at 6:42pm
HOT DOG!  I've been thinking about this since you posted.  Now I can sleep-Big smileHaHa
Happy Traveling,
Tom
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Posts: 25 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2021 at 6:55pm
Originally posted by SC for Huskers

HOT DOG!  I've been thinking about this since you posted.  Now I can sleep-Big smileHaHa



Ha! It was keeping me awake as well!

Since that circuit has a 15amp fuse at the panel, I am wondering why a 10amp fuse was chosen. Why not 5, or 15? Or, no fuse at all.

I do recognize and obey the cardinal rule, only replace with a like fuse (10amp).  More just curious.

I learned a lot about POD electrical via this DIY adventure.
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Posts: 25 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2021 at 7:43pm
Another update. So the 1/2" holes in the framing / sides of my cast iron stairs is where my lamp cord and strip lighting run. That way my 1 step is high visibility. It was at those 2 holes that I damaged my replacement strip light. The cast iron is sharp and so I tried to recycle the original rubber grommets. There were impossible to get back into place since the newer lights were wider than my original.  I cut the rubber but it was an epic fail.

My new 1 day old strip light isn't very bright. So i reconnected my 5 day "old" lights since a 3 foot section was still working, to compare bulb brightness.  Viola, the entire strand lit up.  I guess from messing around with it, I reconnected some broken wires and accidentally fixed it.

I suspect if I wiggle that cable I will burn out the fuse again but its already in place so I am going to tack it down, use silicone caulk to support it through the steps, and hope for the best. 
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Posts: 25 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2021 at 8:13pm


I figured I would post a picture before I damage the strip tacking it down proper. Yes that's a tupperware lid cough junction box cover on the ground.
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