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fwunder View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Good/Bad Timing
    Posted: 30 May 2021 at 5:52pm
I've switched to Jack Black - go for it!! Just kidding.

Hey, I did just get a nice cover for the Honda. I don't think the covers that advertise HONDA make much sense. Kinda like me wearing Under Armor logo stuff - it just attracts all those 20-30-40-50 and some 70 year olds with nefarious motives!

Anyway, it looks pretty good.


fred
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2021 at 4:35pm
We'll spare you rooting out the mean square (RMS), you'd probably want more like 10 beers for that procedure...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2021 at 4:10pm
It is apparent that I do not possess the true power I thought. Watt I will do, however, is continue to resist, use my best inductive reasoning and avoid capaciture!! (sic)

Thanks for the lesson, guys! I need a beer or four.

fred
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Yes, those are wild ponies dining on grass while dumping tanks!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2021 at 11:03am
Yeah, that's right. Resistive loads like your space heater do not affect the power factor. Capacitive loads will delay the voltage relative to the current, and inductive loads will move it the other way.  VA tells you what the volts and amps are, but does not consider the power factor (watts).
bp
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 May 2021 at 8:00am
If you looked at the current and voltage waveforms on an oscilloscope you would see that for some loads they are overlayed (in phase), on some the current lags the voltage (out of phase) and on some the current leads the voltage (out of phase).

The loads where the the waveforms are overlayed are "resistive", ones with current lagging are "inductive", current leading are "capacitive".

Since power equals volts x amps you have to multiply the instantaneous current and voltage at each point on the waveforms to get the true power, which represents the work being done by the electricity.
If the two waveforms are out of phase the true power will be less than VxA as measured individually by a multimeter.

VA is called apparent power. All the electrical gear (windings, inverter transistors, conductors) still has to handle the current even if it's not doing as much actual work.

Space heaters are big resistors do they are resistive loads, meaning that their current and voltage are in phase and VA = watts. So your space heater would be expected to have VA=watts.

Motors are inductive loads, meaning that their current lags the voltage.   So watts < VA. Power factor = watts/VA and motors are typically in the range of 0.8 to 0.9 PF unless PF correction has been added, typically a capacitor.

So say your Honda is designed so that it's engine and generator sections are matched for max loads of 2200 watts with a PF of 1 at sea level. That would mean that if you ran a 2200 watt space heater the engine would lug and the generyor would start to overload simultaneously. If you went up to 7000 ft elevation (assuming the rule of thumb 3% per 1000 ft elevation derate) the engine would lug first.

Now put a motor load of 2200 VA and 0.8 PF on instead. At sea level the generator would start to overload before the engine would lug. But at 7000 ft both would give up at the same time.

Hope that makes sense.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2021 at 7:09pm
Dumb it down for me OG. I put a 1500 watt space heater on it and the app showed 1490 VA.

I'm thinking the VA meter could be great in managing power to keep running in eco mode when possible. May be good @ prediction fuel consumption too. They say 8.1 hours or more @ 1/4 load which would put it somewhere between 400-500 VA. My initial observation showed that I had to push it up to about 650 VA before throttle up.

AC unit should be fun to test.

fred
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2021 at 5:14pm
True power might be as much as 20% less than VA on some motor loads. The generator windings and transistors care about amps while the engine cares about true power. So if the power factor is low we could see the inverter/generator trip it's breaker while the engine still has significant available power. That would make a difference in how the system works at high altitude for example.

That's why I'm curious. The power factor can be difficult to measure accurately if you're using two different meters because relatively small errors between the two can build up. That's why I was wondering if the new Hondas did both. You can try with the Kill A Watt but the result might not be very accurate.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2021 at 2:14pm
The Volt Amp gauge is the only display. According to Honda, it is "what the generator is producing vs. what is consumed by a device".

For all practical purposes, I figured it's the same. If I can find where I put my Kill-A-Watt, I can find out.

fred
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2021 at 12:14pm
Interesting. The scale is reading in VA in your screen shot. Does it display watts as well? I'm interested in what the a/c compressor power factor is.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2021 at 10:20am
The new EU2200i has a nifty bluetooth app which can be helpful. The remote cutoff and engine hours are really helpful. Nice seeing wattage usage also. I noted that running in eco-mode ( idle ) I could get about 650 watts. After that it revved up.




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Yes, those are wild ponies dining on grass while dumping tanks!
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