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Topic Closed12 volt only solar setup?
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: 12 volt only solar setup?
    Posted: 29 Aug 2021 at 12:02pm
I agree. Multiple connectors become multiple failure modes, either caused by lack of human intervention corrosion, mechanical, or thermal stress.
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Posts: 6289 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2021 at 7:37am
Originally posted by offgrid

Originally posted by StephenH


Originally posted by offgrid

You don't need to have a second connector to do that. If you run your solenoid output to the TV +12V pin on the Bargeman it would do the same thing.
That is good advice for someone who is contemplating doing the job, but since it is done, I'm not going back and re-doing it just to run through the Bargman. Besides, I think I already stated that the Frontier's wire used for 12V power was not heavy enough for what Renogy specified. Running a dedicated wire ensures that I am not going to have issues with it as long as I own the Frontier.


Agreed. There is nothing wrong with the way you did it. I was just pointing out that having a second trailer connector, which might not appeal to some, is not a requirement for others contemplating a Li conversion. As I said when I referred the OP to your Li mod write up, that was the only item I would change.

Most trailer connector kits, including the popular one from etrailer, already include 30A capacity, which should be plenty for most folks. I wouldn't try to push more than that through a 7 way connector anyhow. Just get a DC DC converter that has an input current rating which doesn't exceed that.

If you wanted to use a TV high capacity alternator to charge at a higher rate than that then a second high ampacity connector would be needed. That is an interesting option to consider if you wanted to eliminate carrying a generator for recharging.
Okay. I think we are on the same page now. I would like to emphasize one point you made. If one is going to use the Bargman connector's 12V circuit, then adding (if not already there) an isolation solenoid or other way to isolate the trailer's battery from the TV's battery is important. One does not want to be draining the TV's battery. It is also for convenience. I don't think it good to have to unplug and then plug in the connector at every stop. I actually forgot to plug in the connector once on my way home from the Outer Banks a couple of weeks ago and someone stopped and told me that my trailer's lights were not working. It wasn't the vehicle connector in this case, but the connector to the Hayes Sway-Master that I forgot to plug in.
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2021 at 5:35am
Originally posted by StephenH


Originally posted by offgrid

You don't need to have a second connector to do that. If you run your solenoid output to the TV +12V pin on the Bargeman it would do the same thing.
That is good advice for someone who is contemplating doing the job, but since it is done, I'm not going back and re-doing it just to run through the Bargman. Besides, I think I already stated that the Frontier's wire used for 12V power was not heavy enough for what Renogy specified. Running a dedicated wire ensures that I am not going to have issues with it as long as I own the Frontier.


Agreed. There is nothing wrong with the way you did it. I was just pointing out that having a second trailer connector, which might not appeal to some, is not a requirement for others contemplating a Li conversion. As I said when I referred the OP to your Li mod write up, that was the only item I would change.

Most trailer connector kits, including the popular one from etrailer, already include 30A capacity, which should be plenty for most folks. I wouldn't try to push more than that through a 7 way connector anyhow. Just get a DC DC converter that has an input current rating which doesn't exceed that.

If you wanted to use a TV high capacity alternator to charge at a higher rate than that then a second high ampacity connector would be needed. That is an interesting option to consider if you wanted to eliminate carrying a generator for recharging.
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Posts: 6289 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 10:07pm
Originally posted by offgrid

You don't need to have a second connector to do that. If you run your solenoid output to the TV +12V pin on the Bargeman it would do the same thing.
That is good advice for someone who is contemplating doing the job, but since it is done, I'm not going back and re-doing it just to run through the Bargman. Besides, I think I already stated that the Frontier's wire used for 12V power was not heavy enough for what Renogy specified. Running a dedicated wire ensures that I am not going to have issues with it as long as I own the Frontier.
StephenH
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 8:24pm
You don't need to have a second connector to do that. If you run your solenoid output to the TV +12V pin on the Bargeman it would do the same thing.
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Posts: 6289 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 8:03pm
Originally posted by offgrid

StephenH, you could do the same thing using the +12V from the Bargeman to turn the DC DC on and off. Either way, it's a good point that anyone doing this would need to either disconnect their trailer connector as soon as they stop or run a wire from their ignition to the DC DC on/off input, otherwise they will draw down their TV battery trying to charge the trailer battery.
And that is the point. When we are traveling, we often stop and don't disconnect. If we stop for lunch, I sure don't want to be unplugging the Bargeman connector. The risk of forgetting to plug it back in is too high. With my setup, I don't have to worry about it as the isolation solenoid takes care of it for me.
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 7:30pm
StephenH, you could do the same thing using the +12V from the Bargeman to turn the DC DC on and off. Either way, it's a good point that anyone doing this would need to either disconnect their trailer connector as soon as they stop or run a wire from their ignition to the DC DC on/off input, otherwise they will draw down their TV battery trying to charge the trailer battery.
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 7:24pm
Be sure to build in proper fuse and/or circuit breaker protection. Each current producing device needs to be fused at the source to protect the wires coming from it. 10 gauge 30A, 8 gauge 40A, 6 gauge 50A. The exception is the solar circuit which needs a fuse or cb at the battery but not the solar end because solar is self limiting in current. All fuses breakers, and switches go in the pos conductors.
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Posts: 46 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 4:13pm
Awesome. Thank you.  It will be a couple of months at least before I start buying parts, but this discussion is really going to help.
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Posts: 6289 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2021 at 3:48pm
Originally posted by Mr. Scott

Yeah, referring to the existing AC to DC converter to make it Lion friendly.  Thanks!  I'll check that out.  But, yeah, I'll need the DC to DC converter, too, because I want to charge from the TV.

Jeez, I need a schematic!  At least a basic one.  LOL.  I think for obvious reasons I want to be able to charge from a land line, the TV, and the solar.  So it looks like three different parts:

1) AC to DC converter (basic swap)
2) DC to DC converter (for TV)--this one is more mysterious for me re. placement.
3) Solar charge controller--simple in line with the solar panels to the batts

So that covers it, yes?  Besides, of course, busses, fuses, etc.

My head hurts.

Thanks.
WFCO part # is WF 8950 L2 MBA. It is a fairly simple swap for the WF 8955 converter that the RPod comes with, assuming that you have the 8955 that has the converter module and not one of the ones that does not have it as a separate module.

DC to DC: You can see where I put mine in my mods listing. I placed it near the battery. The drawings on Renogy's site are more geared toward a motor home where it will be close to the engine compartment and can be connected to a circuit that is only live when the ignition is on. That triggers the charger to turn on. When power is removed, that triggers it to turn off. On my installation, since i have the separate power circuit, I just draw power from that to the switch since it is only live when the engine is running and the isolation solenoid is closed. When the engine is off, the isolation solenoid opens and the circuit has no current. Thus, the DC to DC charger shuts off.

Solar: Yes, it is easy. Since you won't have the converter or the DC to DC charger trying to charge the battery, your solar panel's charge controller will handle the charging just fine. Connect it directly to the battery or run a connection to where you can use an Anderson PowerPole connector. Make sure to get the rubber waterproof boots to install as well so your connections stay dry both when connected or disconnected. These beat the solar MC4 connectors because it does not require a tool to disconnect them and they are much heavier duty so with something that will be plugged and unplugged many times, the Anderson PowerPole connectors are much better. 

If, like me, you mount the LiFePO4 battery and DC to DC charger inside the RPod, you will want connectors that are easy access from the outside anyway. The PowerPole connectors with the boots work well.
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

ouR escaPOD mods
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Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS
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