New R-Pod owner, light bulb issues. |
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Maddoxjprice
Newbie Joined: 03 Nov 2021 Location: Dallas, TX Online Status: Offline Posts: 19 |
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Topic: New R-Pod owner, light bulb issues. Posted: 06 Nov 2021 at 11:42am |
I just purchased a 2012 R-Pod 177. I'm a totally new to the RV life. I know nothing about how things work. Firstly, I can't find light bulbs that fit! Help! Next, I am parked at an RV resort. So I didn't think I was even using the battery. My lights started coming on but 20 seconds later they go very dim. And my battery is now reading on empty. What is going on?!
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Maddox Price
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6285 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 06 Nov 2021 at 12:23pm |
Hello Maddox,
Congratulations on your new-to-you RPod. I hope you have many fun adventures and make many great memories with your RPod. Now to the issues: First, since you say you are at an RV resort, I am going to take it as a given that you are plugged into shore power. You are using 12V to run the lights, even when you are plugged in. The converter in the power panel is supposed to both provide that 12V power and to charge the battery. I am not familiar with the setup in the 2012 RP177. If it is the same as the WIFCO 8955 panel in our 2016 RP179, then this will make sense. At the battery: Is the battery connected and the terminals clean? Take the battery caps off. Check the electrolyte level. Is it above the plates? If not, add distilled water to the split ring. Replace caps. Third, Check the cables to ensure that the polarity is correct. Black should be to positive and white to negative. Inside at the panel: Open the cover. Check the two 40A fuses that are recessed in about the middle of the panel. They may be partially hidden. These are the reverse polarity protection fuses. If they are blown, it means the battery was connected with reverse polarity. If they are blown, replace them and then check again. Are all the circuit breakers on and not tripped? Download the troubleshooting chart from WFCO and follow the steps to determine if the converter module is bad. If it is bad, it will not be outputting the 12V needed to both power the RPod and charge the battery. If you have one, connect a 12V charger to the battery and try to charge it. If the battery is still good, you will be able to charge the battery and have your lights, even if the converter is bad. That will give you time to investigate and replace the converter if needed. You may also wish to remove the battery and take it to a place and get the battery tested. It may be bad. However, if you do replace the battery, you will still need to test the converter to make sure it is working. Otherwise, you will end up with a new battery that is dead also. CAUTION: If you remove the battery, make sure you get the polarity right when you put it back or install a new one. Also, there are things that draw power, even if you think everything is turned off. The LP/CO detector is one such item. It is always drawing power and can't be turned off since it is a safety item. Good luck and post what you find out.
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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jato
Senior Member Joined: 23 Feb 2012 Location: Kewadin, MI Online Status: Offline Posts: 3216 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 06 Nov 2021 at 7:43pm |
+1 Great advice above. Also I had this happen when one of my connections at the battery was snug but not tight. Make sure the connections are tight with a wrench, not just finger tight. Also pick up a multitestor/voltmeter (Harbor Freight $4-5) and check the battery voltage. Fully charged at rest a 12v will read 12.72v or above. If it is reading under 12.1v the battery either needs to be charged or has been hurt in the past. Give it a charge and see after a day if it holds that charge using the voltmeter.
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God's pod
'11 model 177 '17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake "...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free." |
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marwayne
Senior Member Joined: 25 Oct 2011 Location: Edmonton AB Can Online Status: Offline Posts: 1002 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 06 Nov 2021 at 8:44pm |
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
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Maddoxjprice
Newbie Joined: 03 Nov 2021 Location: Dallas, TX Online Status: Offline Posts: 19 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 07 Nov 2021 at 1:46pm |
Wow, to be honest all of this makes me feel pretty lost. This is a new battery. I've only had it for 3 months. I had a professional install it for me. I have checked the connections on the battery and they are pretty tight. I'm afraid it's the converter. I'm going to have a RV repair person come out tomorrow but I'll make sure to keep a close eye on what they are doing so if this happens again I'll be able to check things out properly. Luckily it hasn't been too hot outside so having the A/C off isn't a huge problem right now. And I have a lamp inside for light as I am living in it. I just hate to have to call someone out to fix it, it can get very expensive.
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Maddox Price
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offgrid
Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 07 Nov 2021 at 3:09pm |
If your air conditioner is off it's not the converter, the a/c runs directly from your shore power connection, the battery and converter/charger are not involved. The other appliances that work directly from shore power are the microwave and anything plugged into the standard 120Vac outlets Do those work?
If not then check your circuit breakers and also the breaker on the shore power pedestal. Plug something directly into the pedestal to be sure the campground is actually supplying power to you. Often the receptacles in the pedestal get rough usage and don't connect properly to your cable. |
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6285 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 07 Nov 2021 at 4:34pm |
Except that the thermostat needs 12V power to run. It does not run directly off shore power, so if the converter is bad, it would keep the AC from running also. Still, making sure the shore power pedestal is actually supplying power is a good idea. I've seen some in very bad shape. However, if you are using a lamp that is plugged into an AC outlet and it is working, then it would seem that you are getting power. Use a multimeter to check that the power being supplied is of the proper 110V -120V range. If it is under 90V, then the campground has an issue. If it is over 120V, that is a separate issue. I like using a surge protector/circuit analyzer. The Hughes Autoformer PWD30-EPO Surge Protector is a good one. I use the big brother to it, the Hughes Autoformers RV 2130-SP which will also boost low voltage if the shore power is too low, but it is much more expensive.
Please take my advice to get (if you don't have one) a 12V battery charger such as a 15A charger you can find at Walmart. Connect that to the battery and plug it in. It will charge the battery. If things start working then, it is a good indication that your converter is bad. If you can handle it, then a good multimeter and using the troubleshooting chart I referred from WFCO will help you determine whether your converter is bad or not. My suspicion is that it is bad. Have you checked the two 40A fuses in the power panel?
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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offgrid
Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 07 Nov 2021 at 5:46pm |
The a/c tstat in my 2015 rpod did not require 12v. It was integrated into the a/c itself and operated from 120Vac. The heater had a separate tstat which of course required 12V as did the heater itself. As the subject rpod is an earlier model I assumed it was wired similarly to mine.
I understand that the later models have a single thermostat for both heater and a/c and that one might require 12V. |
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6285 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 07 Nov 2021 at 10:20pm |
I did not take into account earlier models. Our 2016 has a single thermostat on the wall for control of both AC and furnace.
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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offgrid
Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290 |
Post Options Quote Reply Posted: 08 Nov 2021 at 5:58am |
I just don't understand how the newer "combined" thermostat is an improvement. Folks here an the forum seem to have problems with them frequently and they are more difficult to troubleshoot. The older design is easy to understand and operate. Sometimes simple independent controls are better....
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
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