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Winterizing a 2022 RPOD 192

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StephenH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Winterizing a 2022 RPOD 192
    Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 4:19pm
1-1/16 is the correct size for the head on the anode rod. Otherwise, the information above is correct except that there are some important things to remember. First is to make sure the electric switch is OFF so you don't accidentally burn up the element by plugging the trailer in while the tank is empty. Second is to let the tank cool off since otherwise, you could get scalded with the hot water. Third is to relieve the pressure on the tank before removing the anode rod. You might have it shooting across your driveway or yard otherwise when you take it out.
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hank*pod View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote hank*pod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 5:23pm
I'm still waiting for my anode rod wrench to arrive but I (mostly) drained the WH by opening the low point drains and popping open the relief valve on the tank. I'll check tomorrow.
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jato View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 5:28pm
Originally posted by hank*pod

I'm still waiting for my anode rod wrench to arrive but I (mostly) drained the WH by opening the low point drains and popping open the relief valve on the tank. I'll check tomorrow.


Smart thing to do so you don't end up with an 'oops' situation.  Probably the water level in your HW tank will be at the same level as the height of your relief valve.  You will find out tomorrow.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote gpokluda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 7:09pm
Thanks, StephenH. Yep, all those things. Since I usually drain on the way home I forget about that stuff.

FWIW, opening the low point drains and faucets inside, the HW tank will empty itself in a few miles while driving home.


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lostagain View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote lostagain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2022 at 5:39am
Another gotcha for winterizing is to make sure you get all the water out of the toilet valve.  I found out the hard way when I thought I had blown all the water out and there was enough residual to freeze the valve and crack it.  Now, I disconnect the supply line and blow some air directly through that valve with the pedal depressed.  Even after draining everything and blowing the lines out, there was still a surprising amount of accumulated water in the tubing and valve that came out when I applied air to the valve intake supply line.  

And, +1 to StephenH's suggestion that a second switch be turned off on the electric water heater element so it doesn't accidentally get turned on with an empty tank.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2022 at 6:53am
Originally posted by lostagain

Another gotcha for winterizing is to make sure you get all the water out of the toilet valve.  I found out the hard way when I thought I had blown all the water out and there was enough residual to freeze the valve and crack it.  Now, I disconnect the supply line and blow some air directly through that valve with the pedal depressed.  Even after draining everything and blowing the lines out, there was still a surprising amount of accumulated water in the tubing and valve that came out when I applied air to the valve intake supply line.  



Herein lies a good reason for more pressure when blowing out.  This is the 11th year using 85 psi to blow out lines and there is basically no water left to freeze anywhere.  For the first couple years I would double check after blowing out by opening the low point drains and all that was left was about 2 drops of water in each.  Since then the low point drains haven't been touched; that was about 8 years ago.  Northern Michigan and the winters can be brutal.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote hank*pod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2022 at 11:44am
Originally posted by jato

Smart thing to do so you don't end up with an 'oops' situation.  Probably the water level in your HW tank will be at the same level as the height of your relief valve.  You will find out tomorrow.
We'll see. I got a lot more water out when I popped the relief than from just draining via the low point drains with inside taps open. It all came out the drains and none from the relief. Assuming one or the other water lines goes to the bottom of the tank (typically cold water, where most of the water drained) I expect it to be drained to the level where that line enters.

The wrench is out for delivery and should be here in a couple of hours. Meanwhile it's 75 degrees outside so no big hurry to get the rest of the water out.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote lostagain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2022 at 1:02pm
I just finished packing up the trailer for the winter, even putting the tarp over it, and now it's acting like it's summer here in CT and time to go camping again.  The trees are really confused with 78 degrees as I flail away on the keyboard here on the eastern CT coast.  
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Post Options Post Options   Quote hogone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2022 at 5:05pm
I have never winterized with air; just good old tasty antifreeze(not really)!  I really want to do it, as I want to do alot of winter camping and dont want to constantly be winterizing/dewinterizing.  We can get alot of nice periods of mild weather in St. Louis where you can use the water system (if that makes sense).   I read through the posts but want to clarify a few things so I dont blow things up!  Hot water heater is drained.  Do I blow out by-passing the hot water heater (like winterizing with anti freeze); or do I leave it in the normal mode (or both).  Do I blow out with the low water points open, or closed?  When blowing out, just one tap at a time, or can you do a couple at the same time?  Appreciate the help.  jon
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jato View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2022 at 5:47pm
Yes Jon, drain the HW tank and close your valves to 'bypass' or winter mode.  If you have a large compressor with a lot of volume you could probably open the low point drains but if not, leave the caps on during the blow out procedure.  If you are going low pressure like 20 or 25 lbs go one tap at a time (don't forget toilet or outside shower if you have it).  For the past 11 years I go with 85 psi but always keep one tap open.  Start with tap # 1 open and blow out until only air is left, at that point tap #2 is opened and tap #1 is closed.  When #2 is blowing only air then tap#3 is opened and #2 tap is closed.  So one tap is always open during the process.  Takes about 2 minutes to go through all taps twice, including the toilet.  Used to open low point drains but after a few years of getting about 2 drops of water out of each I haven't bothered since.  Northern Michigan and no leaks or issues using this procedure.
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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