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Topic ClosedRunning Fridge on Battery in Transit

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g4royce View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Running Fridge on Battery in Transit
    Posted: 30 Jul 2011 at 1:47pm
When we first got our trailer the dealer told me that the most efficient way to run the fridge while in transit was propane.  We've had problems with the fridge in propane mode and have been using it in battery mode in transit instead lately.  My tow vehicle is not very powerful and towing in the heat of summer is straining my engine.  What I'd like to know is does anyone know if running the fridge on battery increases the strain on my engine significantly?  Thanks.
ChaiPod
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2011 at 1:57pm
Doubtful.. I have not yet checked to see what the drain/load would be, but the charging system usually doesn't draw a lot of engine power anyways...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2011 at 7:55pm
There are people, including myself, that say you should never use LP while on the road.  The reason is that in an accident you would have an open gas line.  BOOM!  It would be better to get the fridge cold before you leave and put it on 12v.

Terry
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2011 at 8:46pm
Originally posted by TerryM

There are people, including myself, that say you should never use LP while on the road.  The reason is that in an accident you would have an open gas line.  BOOM!  It would be better to get the fridge cold before you leave and put it on 12v.

Terry
 
Hey Terry, that's not what Tech said a couple of weeks ago.  Here is his post and a link to it.  I respect BOTH your opinions.  Any chance of mutual consensus on this topic?  Or will you just agree to disagree?  I value what you both say.
Diane
 
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Tech's comments to me:
 

Hodge - don't worry about using the propane, it isn't illegal in any state, just in some tunnels where it is clearly marked.  Most big rigs only have 2 way fridges with no 12 volt option and can only use propane on the road.  The tanks have several safety features which prevent accidents - I've seen videos of them on Mythbusters where even sitting in a fire the worst they do is vent.  No explosion.

Doug
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 2011 at 9:59pm

Even on other big camping forums this is one of those subjects where nobody can agree.  Wink

The heating element in 12 volt mode is usually around 120-150 watts.  One horsepower is 745 watts, so it isn't much of a load on the engine.  What you do need to worry about is if the wiring coming from the battery to the Bargeman connector is big enough.  The +12 line and the negative line need to be at least 10 gauge wire, even 8 would be better.  That ensures there isn't much of a voltage drop when you have the fridge in 12 volt mode and the battery is charging (and the lights are on, etc).

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2011 at 3:52am
I might get yelled at for this, but I suggest only short trips for the 12v battery powered refrigerator mode.  The reason being that I have personally had my battery quickly drain while boondocking for 2 nights with the refrigerator in battery power mode.  Now this might be solved with a heavier gage wire as was previously suggested, I don't know.  I personally prefer the propane power mode for the refrigerator as the propane usage seems minimal and it gets the job done.  I know others will disagree with the use of propane, but I really do prefer it. 

I prefer propane if not plugged in that is...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2011 at 7:50am
Hodge-PODge:  I will stick with my statement.  Lets say you had an accident.  Under normal conditions there would not be a fire in the camper.  If your gas line was turned on and broken there would be free flowing LP gas in the camper.  It could accumulate in the camper.  One spark is all that is needed.  I have seen pictures of campers that caught fire.  They go up pretty fast.  No matter how safe the tank is on LP, the weak link is the gas line.  A line putting out gas.

In the not too distant past all the fridges were LP/110v/12v.  A lot of people had problems with the wind blowing out the burner when driving.  The 12v setting of course didn't have that problem.  The manufactures fixed the blow out problem.  So because there isn't that problem any longer they are making 110v/LP ones.  Than is fine and good I guess.  Except for one thing...a broken gas line.

My point is this:  IF you have the option of keeping your fridge cool in a safer manor, why not do it?

Terry
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2011 at 7:58am
I just traveled 6500 miles over 25 days. I always traveled in battery mode. When I would be parked for a while, sightseeing, I would switch over to propane mode. Hooked up at campgrounds it would be plugged in. Only problem I had is when it reached 98 degrees outside and I put stuff in after stopping at a store, frost built up on the interior coils,( slats) once I scraped the frost away it worked like a charm.
 Travel on battery mode, much safer, I agree.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2011 at 10:22am
Originally posted by TerryM

Hodge-PODge:  I will stick with my statement.  Lets say you had an accident.  Under normal conditions there would not be a fire in the camper.  If your gas line was turned on and broken there would be free flowing LP gas in the camper.  It could accumulate in the camper.  One spark is all that is needed.  I have seen pictures of campers that caught fire.  They go up pretty fast.  No matter how safe the tank is on LP, the weak link is the gas line.  A line putting out gas.

In the not too distant past all the fridges were LP/110v/12v.  A lot of people had problems with the wind blowing out the burner when driving.  The 12v setting of course didn't have that problem.  The manufactures fixed the blow out problem.  So because there isn't that problem any longer they are making 110v/LP ones.  That is fine and good, I guess.  Except for one thing...a broken gas line.

My point is this:  IF you have the option of keeping your fridge cool in a safer manor, why not do it?

Terry
 
Terry, I guess it would be better to be safe than sorry.  I appreciate your explanation of why, too.  Thanks!
Diane
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 2011 at 9:09pm
One of the safety features the new tanks have is a high-flow cutoff.  If you get into an accident and a line is cut, the flow will be cut off at the tank.  You can test this by turning off the tank and then lighting the stove until it goes out (to empty the lines).  Then turn the tank back on quickly and you won't be able to light the stove.  This is why you must open the tank valve slowly, older tanks could be opened quickly w/o a problem.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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