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Topic ClosedHeretical Thoughts on "Winterizing"

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Footslogger03 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Heretical Thoughts on "Winterizing"
    Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 12:03pm
I actually use both the "pink stuff" and a small thermostatic heater. I like to work on projects inside our camper during the long Wyoming winters. I'm in there just about every day tinkering with something or just doing a visual inspection. Without that little heater it really wouldn't be very peasant to do that. I don't depend on that little heater to keep the pipes from freezing   ...but I'm certain it helps. Honestly, most often when I go inside the heater isn't even running and it's reasonably comfortable, which says to me that the camper is fairly well insulated.

I'm sure the heater bumps my electric bill up a tad    ...but the risk is worth the reward. Been using a small ceramic heater inside our campers now for 4 seasons and (fingers/toes crossed) have never had an issue.

MJ
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 4:01pm

Oh yes, the pods are very well insulated, nearly 2" in the outer shell.  My last comment was directed more at Walt and the use of a heater and blowing the lines out as the only defense.

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 7:25pm
I air blow the water lines and then pump some RV antifreeze through them.  I also have found that some water does stay in the pipes.  You would need to blow 'dried' air through the pipes until all moisture is evaporated and blown out to get rid of all pipe moisture.  The antifreeze also protects the water pump impeller.  I don't put any antifreeze into the fresh water tank...I make sure that the tank has been drained as much as possible.  The remaining water is usually a fraction of an inch deep and when it freezes it does not expand enough to do any damage.  I let enough antifreeze pump through the lines so that it flushes out the P-traps under the sink and shower.  The excess antifreeze can then sit in the holding tanks and help protect the gate valves.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2011 at 7:51am
Originally posted by Tidalwave4455

I air blow the water lines and then pump some RV antifreeze through them.  I also have found that some water does stay in the pipes.  You would need to blow 'dried' air through the pipes until all moisture is evaporated and blown out to get rid of all pipe moisture.  The antifreeze also protects the water pump impeller.  I don't put any antifreeze into the fresh water tank...I make sure that the tank has been drained as much as possible.  The remaining water is usually a fraction of an inch deep and when it freezes it does not expand enough to do any damage.  I let enough antifreeze pump through the lines so that it flushes out the P-traps under the sink and shower.  The excess antifreeze can then sit in the holding tanks and help protect the gate valves.
 
Why blow the lines AND add antifreeze?  The folks I hear that use the blow-out method usually don't do the antifreeze.  If you using antifreeze, skip the step of blowing the lines.  You're wasting your time and yielding no benefits.
 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2011 at 1:40pm
As mentioned, I have found that just blowing out the pipes leaves some moisture.  Enough to collect in any low spots in the pipes and potentially bust them.  I blow out the pipes to get rid of the fresh water...so when I add the RV antifreeze I am not diluting the fluid. When pink fluid comes out of the faucets I know that it is undiluted and I don't have to waste antifreeze to flush all of the fresh water out of the lines. Air is cheaper than RV antifreeze.  The more dilute the antifreeze the less protection.  I live in MN and store the Pod in an unheated machine shed.  It had gotten below -30F in there some winters.
Besides, I have a quick coupling which fits on the water intake line and my air compressor...only a couple of minutes to blow all of the lines. 
I have learned that taking a few extra minutes is not a waste of time. A line that has burst during the winter...a lot more time and money involved.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2011 at 4:08pm
I do both (air and pink stuff).  To me, the extra peace of mind is worth $10 or less and about half an hour of time.  And as mentioned, by purging the lines first, I don't use as much of the red pop and, what I do use, is undiluted.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 2011 at 8:34pm
You must blow out the lines through the city water connection.  The section of hose between the connection and where it is T'd into the rest of the water system won't readily drain otherwise.  There is one way around this w/o using air, you have to remove the screen on the connection and then press in the backflow valve right behind it while the pump is on and connected to the RV antifreeze bottle.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 3:09pm
Originally posted by Tidalwave4455

As mentioned, I have found that just blowing out the pipes leaves some moisture.  Enough to collect in any low spots in the pipes and potentially bust them.  I blow out the pipes to get rid of the fresh water...so when I add the RV antifreeze I am not diluting the fluid. When pink fluid comes out of the faucets I know that it is undiluted and I don't have to waste antifreeze to flush all of the fresh water out of the lines. Air is cheaper than RV antifreeze.  The more dilute the antifreeze the less protection.  I live in MN and store the Pod in an unheated machine shed.  It had gotten below -30F in there some winters.
Besides, I have a quick coupling which fits on the water intake line and my air compressor...only a couple of minutes to blow all of the lines. 
I have learned that taking a few extra minutes is not a waste of time. A line that has burst during the winter...a lot more time and money involved.
 
OK, whatever works for you I guess.  I not arguing the fact that antifreeze is the right way to go.  I'm just saying your "few extra minutes" is probably really an hour or so, by time you retreive the compressor, get power to it, hook it up, do that actual blow-out, undo, remove power, put away, etc., to only come right behind that with adding antifreeze anyway.  Have a great day.
 
 
 
"Ray & Connie"

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 3:12pm
Originally posted by techntrek

You must blow out the lines through the city water connection.  The section of hose between the connection and where it is T'd into the rest of the water system won't readily drain otherwise.  There is one way around this w/o using air, you have to remove the screen on the connection and then press in the backflow valve right behind it while the pump is on and connected to the RV antifreeze bottle.
 
NO, NO, NO.  Never press that backflow while the system is pressurized.  You risk damaging that piece and it's a pain in the a** to fix.  As the last antifreeze related thing you do, make sure the water pump is off, open a faucet for a second or two to release pressure in the lines, turn off the facuet, then go outside and remove the screen and press the backflow tit, until pink comes out.  Put the screen back on, cover with the flappy thing and you're done.
 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 3:29pm
Never heard of a problem with doing that, many others around the net suggest doing it.  Its just a plastic or metal piece with a spring and rubber seal.  Why would pushing it when under pressure do anything to it?
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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