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Topic ClosedWater heater element

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kmcmurph View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Water heater element
    Posted: 28 May 2012 at 2:53pm
I think the element is a pretty easy item to replace. They cost about $15 and should be a pretty quick fix. 
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Tilly View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2012 at 2:06pm
Ok I got everything except where it is .  Next to what switch?
 
 
traveling with the girls
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2012 at 2:48pm
Welcome, Tilly.  I've never replaced it myself so I'll defer to others for your question.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2012 at 3:41pm
Originally posted by Tilly

Ok I got everything except where it is .  Next to what switch?
 
 
 
Are you asking about the electric on/off switch for the water heater? If so, then it is the outside water heater box, down low, left side, little black on/off rocker slightly hidden.
 
The electric element is under the black cover, right and up, from the switch in the heater compartment, 2 screws hold that cover on.
 
The gas heat on/off switch is inside the camper, on a 177, on the left wall as you enter the camper.
 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 10:00am
Excellent topic    ...since we are just about to get our 177 ready for its first "shake down" trip next weekend.

So    ...sounds like the first thing to do is set the water valves to the proper position (non bypass)

Then hook up to city water supply, open the faucets on the sink and start water flowing through the system get the anti-freeze and air out of the lines.

Then I should be ready to go ?

MJ
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 12:43pm

Flushing the system by using the city water connection won't clear out the water pump, you also don't want to send any antifreeze or bleach into the water heater.  First change into clothes that you don't care about, then:

1. Fill the fresh water tank, adding 1/2 cup of bleach during the fill process.
2. Open 1 of the low-point drains, turn on the pump until it runs clear, turn the pump off, close the drain (turn the pump off first or you will spray yourself with bleach water trying to get the cap on).
3. Open the other low-point drain, pump on, run clear, pump off, close the drain.
4. Pump on.  All the remaining steps assume you keep the valves open until they run clear.
5. Hold the toilet flush valve open.
6. Open the shower cold valve, close, then do the hot water side.  Don't do both at the same time, you won't know if one has run clear and the other hasn't.  If your pod has the mini-sink in the shower, do the same with it.
7. Do the same with the kitchen sink.
8. If you've added any other water connection (I added an outside shower), do the same with it.
9. Turn off the pump.
10. Top off the fresh water tank.
11. Wait at least 3 hours, preferrably overnight.  You now have bleach in every possible nook which will sanitize the system.
 
After 3 hours or the next day:
1. Drain the fresh water tank using the drain hole on the bottom.
2. Refill the tank.
3. Repeat steps 4-9 from the last checklist (I would skip the low-point drains, but you may not want to), waiting about the same time on each valve that you did when you were waiting for the pink to disappear.
4. You may want to repeat steps 1-3 once or twice more, I don't.  I let the remaining bleach odor just work its way out during the first trip of the season.
5. Now change the valves on the water heater - hot and cold lines parallel to the water pipe, the valve in the middle perpendicular.
6. Open the hot water valve on the kitchen sink.  Wait for the air sputtering to stop.  Your water heater is now full.  I would let it run another minute to flush it out.
7. Either top off or drain the remaining water in the fresh water tank as desired.
 
Seems like a lot of steps, but the "day 1" checklist only takes 10-15 minutes.  "Day 2" is maybe 15-20 depending on how many times you rinse the system.
 
All that said, I plan on cheating this year.  The RV antifreeze is in the alcohol family (which is why it doesn't freeze), so everything but the fresh water tank should be sanitized already.  I drain my fresh water tank and the feed line to the pump just as much as possible in the fall so I'll probably just fill it, clear out all the antifreeze in the pump and water lines using that water, and then drain it.  There's little opportunity for something to grow in the tank and certainly no way for it to grow in the water lines.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2012 at 12:48pm
I just updated the "instruction and maintenance manual" thread with this info.  This post has info on other areas of the pod that should be checked:
 
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2012 at 6:55am
Can we get back to the basic's here on the hot water system before we cook another element?
Before you do anything you fill the water tank, which I didn't.........Before I get to far ahead of myself, I am hooked up to a 30 amp system. You then walk inside the POD and there is a switch which say's," Water Heater", now is this sucker for gas or electric?   Some where in the forum I am reading that the switch for Electric heater is outside in the heater control panel?

aloha from Hawaii

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2012 at 7:11am
Yup, that's the gas switch, the electric switch is outside on the bottom right of the water heater panel, just behind the brass tubing.
   
'07 Dodge RAM 1500 ST Longbed QuadCab 4.7L V8 --- '10 Forest River R-Pod 172
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2012 at 5:26pm
Bottom left.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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