Dometic 8501 Refrigerator Problem

When I try to start the refrigerator, whether on 120v or 12v the red indicator light, the energy source light, and the temperature light all flash.  The "most helpful" manual says that this is an indication that the power source is low. 
The 120v is an umbilical to the house and it is just fine.  I put a meter on the batter and it is fully charged.  I'm thus skeptical about the indicator.
Oh, I should mention that the trailer was hooked to the umbilical and the refrigerator was running on A/C power.  Then we had a power glitch at the house.  I went out to the trailer to find the refrigerator was off.  I tried to restart it and I am here.
Does anyone have a suggestion? 

Originally posted by furpod What happens on LP? Ours will flash, when we unplug from shore power without switching to one of the other sources, but stops as soon as we select an available source... Have you checked the fuse (12v) and the breaker (120v)?

I did switch all of the 120v breakers on and off; I couldn't figure out which 12v fuse (nothing labeled in the panel) went to the refrigerator.  As my fingers aren't good enough to pull the 12v fuses to check them, I put it on the back burner. 
I didn't try LP, which is a good suggestion.  I'll go take a look at it.


UPDATE:  The symptoms have changed.  The refrigerator now runs on battery power.  The fault light for the 120v remains.  I tried the A/C unit and it doesn't run, which indicates there is no 120v inside the trailer.  I checked the power plug into which the umbilical is plugged and it has power. 
So I'm delivering 120v to the trailer and there is some problem with the distribution.  I've flipped the main breaker on and off and unless it is fried the problem is not there. 
So that's progress of sorts.  It's not clear to me where the problem would be if not in the main breaker.

UPDATE II: There seems to be no 120v.  I checked the GFI and I think that's the source of the problem.  It is a model I'm not familiar with, but the test bottom doesn't change anything and the reset button doesn't have a positive click that accompanies a reset in other GFIs that I have.  So I'm leaning towards the power glitch taking out a weak GFI.  More testing waits until tomorrow.

I was about to suggest checking the GFCI outlets if your circuit breakers aren't tripped, but it looks like you've arrived at that.  You can open the suspected bad outlet and check for 120 volts coming from the converter on the incoming line.  You can also disconnect your battery and if you can still run 12 volt appliances then you are definitely supplying 120 volts to the converter (and the converter is working properly) so the problem is downstream from the converter.