Fridge won't start

This is true when I was first out of the service I used to make a little extra money setting up Motorcycles at my friends Suzuki Shop. Those things used to come in crates in about 3 to 4 pieces. I had to put them together and torq everything to make sure everything was up to spec so that the new owner did not loose a wheel going down the road. It took about 3 hours on average to set each one up and and all came with a check list from the factory that had to be signed off on and returned to get the prep allowance. I am thinking that things like plumbing connections would be on the checklist because all the jostling around in shipping.  

Good Luck. It's too hot to be without a fridge.  

Anyway, my local dealer (Bretz RV in Missoula, MT) has been very nice about getting things fixed. They don't sell RPods, but they do sell Forest River, so they did some warranty work on it. Had some fuse issues, then they got the batteries all completely charged and then they found the issue with the fridge and replaced something on the circuit board, so it works now.

I just spent seven nights in a row in the RPOD and am now back in the happy camper camp. A few nights in Yellowstone and then down near Jackson Hole. 

I really like it. I still think it should work right the first time, but oh well what can you do.

One new question... when I open the tubes for the black and grey tanks to hook up the hose to dump them out, about a cup full of liquid pours out. The valves are closed. Is this normal or do I need my valves adjusted?

Minor gripe: the screws have come loose on the bed board (under the mattress) and then I opened the storage compartment (without thinking to move the cushion) and the board Pulled the hinge and screws right out of the sidewall. Now they won't stay in. Is there an easy fix for that? Maybe wood glue? The screws don't seem to grip the wall very well. I also see sawdust and have found some loose screws on the floor after towing... hope they don't go to anything too important.

I got a flashlight and looked under the sink and there is a bunch of sawdust under there... they should really take a little more pride when assembling these things and clean up the construciton mess. 

Glad to hear that things have improved.  Unfortunately someone has to be at the tail end of every bell curve and you may be "it". 

 

You should not get any liquid when you open the sewer cover, the valves should completely seal up when closed.  You may have something stuck in the valve which is letting a few drops out over time, eventually giving you the cup of liquid.  A few tests you can try:  Make sure both tanks are completely empty, then completely fill up the gray water tank.  Put the cover on, wait a day, and see if you get any liquid.  Yes or no, dump the gray tank (since this should be mostly clean I would dump it on the ground... but that doesn't mean it is legal depending on where you live), fill the black tank and wait another day.  You may find both valves are leaking, or only one.  If the black tank valve is leaking - and you are brave enough - you could stick your hand up that tube and feel around the valve for "stuff".    If the leak is on the gray side you may not be able to get your hand up that tube.  Worst case I believe they come apart with a couple of bolts.  You could also try backflushing the black tank from the gray tank - fill the gray tank, leave the cap on but open both valves so water rushes into the black tank.  I have done this by just using water trapped in my sewer hose and lifting it up high to force the water to go back into the black tank.

 

The usual carpenter's fix for stripped screws holes is to glue scraps of wood (or wooden match sticks) into the holes, then drill a pilot hole, and re-screw the original screw.