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Racer|X| View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Yet more winterizing
    Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 8:52pm
I have read lots of posts and lists regarding winterizing, but I have an odd question based on my use.  I live in S.E. Wisconsin, so winters are cold.  This is my first season with the Pod.  We have never used the toilet or fresh water tank.  So no black water tank use either.  I have only hooked up to city water and hot water heater use.

Do you suggest I complete the full winterization process?  Bupass valves,etc.  Or will I be good adding RV anti-freeze to the traps, blow out the lines?

Thanks in advance.
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dsmiths View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 8:55pm
Racer dont take the chance, do it all and do it right, it only takes 2 gallons of r.v. antifreeze, its cheap insurance, trust me if the plumbing bursts or a tank bursts or something inside of a wall it will be much more to repair it.
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Goose View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep 2012 at 11:10pm
  I have to agree with dsmiths, don't do it cheap where you live. 10 to 20 below zero and pure water in some line maybe big problems next spring.  Goose
Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 11:12am
After two seasons of winterizing...it doesn't take me long to air blow out the water lines (don't exceed recommended pressure). If you don't have the capability of air blowing the pipes...just use more antifreeze to assure that all of the untreated fresh water has been flushed out.  Then turn the bypass valves, drain the water heater, and pump a gallon or two of RV antifreeze through ALL of the pipes.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 1:24pm
Since you connected the city water connection you have water in all of your lines.  You need to do the full winterization.
 
 
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 2:39pm
Everyone, winterizing the POD is so inexpensive, quick and easy to do, it's not worth the risk in short-cutting things here.  All it takes is for one valve or one connection that's wet, without antifreeze, to pop from freezing and it could be thousands of dollars in repairs.
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Racer|X| View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2012 at 7:57pm
Convinced...thank you all.

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Racer|X| View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2012 at 1:19pm
Okay...winter isn't going to wait...cold today, decided to get going and do my first winterize.

Pod Possey....I have a question.  I have a 182g.  Under my dining table by my water heater are the bypass valves, I even found the pump and the hose piece to pump my rv anti-freeze.

I can see a red and a white bypass valve.  I understand which way to turn off.

Now the confusion, there is a 3rd valve that is in closed position right now that runs between the hot and cold.  Do I turn this ON?

I have pics....but my dumb arse can't figure out how to post.   **sigh**
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Racer|X| View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2012 at 1:31pm
Picture here...see the red (hot) on top in open position.
See the white (cold) on bottom in open position.
Another valve in the middle has white coming in from bottom and red goes out of top and is in closed position.  I assume I open this one and close the other two?  Want to clarify.
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marwayne View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Oct 2012 at 2:25pm
That is correct
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
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