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Topic ClosedDual 6-volt setup?

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ReddOrion View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Dual 6-volt setup?
    Posted: 08 Jan 2013 at 4:04pm
I have read a few threads here that talk about a dual 6v battery setup. What I have not seen is how to make the mod. Since my new Pod has dual group 24  12v batteries from the factory, I'm wondering what would be entailed in changing to the dual 6v.

I know how to wire in series, as we have trolling motors that run on 24v so that part is no issue. What I'm wondering is if anyone has a pet brand of battery they like and if I would need to change my battery boxes, etc. Do I need to change the factory charger inside the trailer?

Also, where would be the best place(s) to source 6v deep cycles? Car part stores or RV dealers?
Jason & Kim
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2013 at 10:19pm

Unfortunately I'm getting ready to head to bed so I can't go into details right now, but I will say a few random thoughts.  

Since you have two new 12 volt batteries I would stick with them until they die.

Places like Costco often have killer deals on the golf cart batteries (6 volts).

Two 12 volts in parallel = 12 volts, two 6 volts in series = 12 volts, so no change is needed on the charger/converter.

There is a special way you want to make sure dual batteries are wired when in parallel.  Make sure the + is tapped on one battery, and the - on the other battery.  It will ensure even discharges and charges.

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 2013 at 11:42am
OK. Thanks for the input. We'll head out and see how we fare with the dual 12v system. We'll dry camp with LED's going + gas furnace at night just to see what kind of mileage we get from power & gas over a weekend.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2013 at 12:52pm

What counts is watts, which is directly related to the amount of lead in a battery, so two batteries of the same size whether they are 6 or 12 volts will usually have the same total energy.  Where a 12 volt batt is rated around 110 amps, a 6 volt batt of the same size will be rated for 220.  Multiply volts time amps and you get 1320 watts either way.  So no real advantage changing to two 6 volt batteries since you already have the two 12's.  Where you may loose out is dealers usually get the cheapest batteries they can get and they are usually NOT true deep cycle batteries.  Often they are marine deep cycle batteries which are hybrids between deep cycle and starting batteries.  I've even seen dealers put starting batteries on the tongue.  The 6 volt golf cart batteries ARE true deep cycle batteries which will last longer.  So learn how to conserve with the batts you have now and then convert later after they die.  Remember that you should never draw the battery down below 50% state-of-charge (at least most of the time) for best battery life.  You can do it down to 30% once in a while but do it rarely.  See Wind Sun's battery faq for details.

The furnace is the single biggest user of battery power and gas.  It is also very loud in the opinion of many including me.  If you really want to dry camp right I suggest getting the smallest version of the Olympic Wave catalytic heater.  Totally quiet, uses a lot less gas, and doesn't use any battery power.  It can be plumbed into the existing pod's gas system.
 
The fridge on the other hand sips gas - you can go a month on one tank.  But, newer fridges like the ones we have also require battery power and you can only go a few days before needing a charge.  Remember to NEVER use the 12 volt mode when dry camping, it will kill your battery in a few hours.  That is only for use while towing, and only if you have a properly sized (and connected) +12 charge line attached to the Bargman connector.  Personally I've been leaning more and more towards just using gas mode during travel since it takes a major load off of the TV's alternator.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2013 at 3:32pm
Thanks again for the info. Guess I better dig the batteries out of the boxes and see what they truly are. I need to anyway so I can drill some drain holes in the boxes.

As for using an Olympian Wave, the manufacturer states that it's for use in vented areas only. Since the Pod seems pretty air tight, is it safe to use a gas heater inside if only one of the front windows is cracked open? I'm pretty sure they wouldn't sell something that would kill it's users, but I'm a little leery of anything that consumes that much oxygen without having a chimney or vent of some kind.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2013 at 5:11pm
I wouldn't use ANY non vented gas appliance in such a small place. Life is too short as it is.  You have a perfectly good heater that is vented in the Pod.  Use that.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jan 2013 at 7:13pm
I would use one with a window and the vent both cracked open.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2013 at 2:34pm
To be on the safe side, I'm going to adopt a conservative Wait & See approach. Wifey and I are planning on some cold (for California) camping at Big Basin soon. We'll see how we do with the stock heater. Since it's typically 1 or 2 nights at those campgrounds, we're going to run everything just as much as we want so we can see what our mileage is out of the LP and dual battery setup on "full" usage. 

Longer trips I'll be less worried about, since we have a Honda 2000 for topping off the batteries. That and we'll have some empirical data to go on! It'll be a rough job, but we'll suffer through the data gathering. Wink
Jason & Kim
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