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lunarpodule View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: new 172
    Posted: 01 Apr 2013 at 4:40am
Thanks so much for that info....very helpful....if I keep having issues with the propane, will see about the purge issue.  - Steve
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2013 at 8:50pm
Lunarpodule, as a fellow 172 owner we had similar problems. I found that my L P gas tank had not been purged properly, the guy at the fill station let about 1/3 out and filled it. after you know the tank if filled properly run both burners of your stove for a few minutes, then light the hot water heater with gas (make sure water heater if full) once the water heater runs ok the fridge should be no problem as the water heater is the further most link on the gas line. I take about 5 gallons of fresh water in the tank while enroute, fill up at the camp sight to save weight. Your HRE should have risers. try rubbing alcohol on a paper towel to remove the glue on the microwave. little problems will work their way out. the bottom line is the pod is small but packed with a lot of good things and you can have a million dollars worth of fun for a few thousand dollars.
Dane and Donna Smith
2011 RP-172
2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer 4X4
lift kit
prodigy wireless brake controller
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2013 at 8:36pm
Thanks for that info techntrek.  I had not heard about the purge valve before, so if things don't even out, I will look into that one.  I am indeed looking at the space theme, maybe inside first, as I am always skeptical of my abilities to modify the outside.  I do have a zebra striped car though, an old Nissan Sentra.  - Steve
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2013 at 6:25pm

Welcome.  Good handle, I tried talking my wife into covering our pod in craters with a lander sitting on the back window, but she wasn't buying it.  Thumbs Down

Another explanation for your stove issue is your LP tank wasn't purged properly.  The first fill (and sometimes years later) the tank needs to have the air purged by opening the purge valve during the fill process.  Usually this means paying more for that fillup since you waste some LPG in the process.  

Don't worry about taking your water with you, while it is ~250 more pounds I haven't found any measurable difference in mpgs with or without the water.  Air resistance going down the road is a far larger contributor to lowering mpgs.  

One option for carrying bikes is adding a front receiver to your TV if one is available.  Some have had problems with cracks around the rear receiver on the pod when carrying more than the tire.  The pod's frame isn't built with robustness in mind, just keeping it lightweight.  

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2013 at 11:50am
Thanks so much for everyone's help!  I'm quite sure my Hood River Edition has the axel risers, but I scraped anyway.  I did get a walk through when I bought it, but these are questions that came up later, and I really appreciate the help here.  I will see if I can get free for the R-Pod roundup in August/Seaside.  That is prime time for preparation for my big Burning Man trip, but might work out.
 
thanks again everyone!
 
- Steve
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2013 at 11:26am
Welcome lunarpodule.
I don't have axle risers on our POD, so when pulling into or out of a drive (gas station, grocery store, etc.) I always go at an angle so only one wheel is high or low at a time. This can help keep the stabilizes from making contact with the ground.
The deeper the valley or the higher the ridge the greater the angle should be. I have taken our POD off-road in some of the national forests that Mother Goose did not think that there was any way we could get to the campsite. Goose
Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2013 at 11:23am
The SN for my air con is under the dome on the roof.  I had to go up and take the thing on the roof off to find my SN.

The valves for the hot water heater are beyond those 4 little screws.  It takes a screw driver to take that cover off.  I haven't done it yet, but I'm thinking of putting some velcro tape on that panel and the one under the sink that you have to remove too to winterize/dewinterize your pod.  The screws are just a cheap way for FR to deal with the access panels.  But, you should normally only have to get in there a couple of times a year, so the screws aren't that big a deal.

The burners sounds like a matter of letting them run for a while to purge the air -- or you could be about out of propane.

The water or lack thereof in your tank was probably some sort of misunderstanding as long as you could fill it yourself with no leaks.  As someone else said, unless you have a reason to, you usually don't want much or any water in your tank when going down the road.  Some folks keep maybe 5 gallons in there so they can flush the toilet at a scenic overlook.  Since you are a newbee, let me say that you don't need any water in your tank if you are camping at a spot with a water hookup.  The onboard water system is separate from the hookup system. 

I thought the HRE came with axle risers.  They are easy to see between the axle and the frame of the pod.  If you don't have them, get them, by all means.  Most likely you just have a steep dip at the end of your driveway.

All of these questions should have been easily answered by your dealer, although I think you will find this forum a fantastic resource too.  I bought my 176 used from an individual, but I thought a thorough walk-through was part of deal when you bought from a dealer, especially when you buy a new Pod.  They really shouldn't have let you off the lot without explaining most of these things.

Enjoy!  And keep in touch!

TT

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2013 at 11:07am
Welcome and congratulations.  We have scheduled a Roundup of Rpods in August at Seaside from Aug. 15th to the 18th.  Hope you can join us.  Safe Travels. 
Camper Bob and Camper Sue
Gracie the Wonder Dog (12 LB. Mini Dachshund)
2013 Rpod 171HRE(ORPod)
2016 Lance 1685
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2013 at 9:37am
To find the A/C serial  number, you have to remove the plastic control box on the pod's ceiling. First pull the knobs straight out, then remove the screws that hold it up to the ceiling. There's a lot of them and they're recessed so not always easy to spot at first.

Haven't had that problem with the burners, but air in the lines is an issue so you're probably right. Almost every time we try to light the fridge we have to light the stove burners first to purge the lines. After they light, we can turn them off, and the fridge takes right off.

Water heater valves are located under the dinette seat.

Unlike our 172s, some pods have to use separate dump valves for gray water and black water due to their floorplan. The manual is pretty generic and meant to apply to all rPods. There's also a low point drain (pipe cap) on the fresh water tank for winterizing. We also use this to drain the fresh water tank when we leave the campground so we can tow the pod with all tanks empty.

.: Mark & Beth :: Silverado 5.3L :: 2018 rPod 180 :.
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 2013 at 9:28am
Lunarpodule,

I can address some of your issues since I also have a 2013 RP-172. Not the Hood River edition, but they are very similar. Mainly the HRE is built in the NW; the non-HRE is built in Indiana.

Don't know where the AC serial number is, but my dealer provided me with an inventory sheet at delivery that had the model and serial numbers of all the appliances on it. Maybe this will help.

The two stove burners should work just fine once you get all the air out of the lines. Be sure your LP tank is full and turned on fully. Also check the gas line on the tongue between the regulator and the pod body for kinks.

For the dragging stabilizers, make sure your pod came equipped with the 4 inch axle risers from the factory. If not, you should definitely get them installed. They are really necessary.

The three hot water bypass valves are under the driver's side dinette bench with the hot water heater. Many podders discard the screws when they get tired of removing and replacing them each year. They serve little purpose.

There is only one gray water drain. It is combined in the Y valve fitting with the black water dump valve. There are low point drain caps for the hot and cold fresh water systems and a drain cap on the bottom of the fresh water tank. These are for winterization in cold climes.

Your dealer probably filled the fresh water tank to check for leaks, then drained it. Most of us do not travel with full tanks because of the added weight. Fill the water tank when you get within sight of your camp site, then drain it before you move on.

I carry two "comfort" bikes on a carrier on the rear bumper with no problem. Forest River recommends a particular model to keep the weight down, but I'm not sure it's really required. Any good lightweight carrier with a 1-1/4 inch draw bar should work. Again, watch the ground clearance under the bikes. I mounted the spare tire up front on the tongue along with an extra LP tank and battery. It's tight but it fits. Do a forum search on my postings and you'll see how I did it.

Count yourself lucky that you can see anything on your TV. The model chosen by FR is really sub-prime. You'll soon tire of it, especially outside of the urban environment. More and more areas have little or no on-air TV stations with the advent of cable.

Can't help with the microwave label. I had no problem. Maybe try some grocery store gum remover solution.

Good luck and happy podding. Lots of people here to help you. Maybe more than you need.Approve

Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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