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Topic ClosedGENERATOR - Event Date: 27 Feb 2014 - 27 Apr 2014
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: GENERATOR
    Posted: 04 Mar 2014 at 8:53am
Jon,

My comment on the open door was in response to Sleepless Bob's suggestion on using extension cords. With the 30 Amp adapter and your pod plugged in to the generator you are golden. A/C, micro, etc. One final option for you: I and many others have installed a 30 Amp recepticle on the house to plug the pod into. With that and your generator running the house you can pretty well set up any configuration you want.
Charlie
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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HuronSailor View Drop Down
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Posts: 704 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2014 at 8:59am
Originally posted by hogone

figured hooking up the pod to the 120/240 slot and using the air would be more efficient and less strain than hooking up to a 120 receptacle on the gen.  hogone 

Plus as I said before you would have full use of all your rPods appliances, just as if you were plugged into the power at a campground, with no spaghetti mess of extension cords running through the door. Go buy the adapter and try it out for me, will you? I'm dying to know how it works!
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P.S. I have a ten circuit manual transfer switch in my basement next to the distribution panel, and a 30A generator inlet on the outside of my house. I have pictures too.
.: Mark & Beth :: Silverado 5.3L :: 2018 rPod 180 :.
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hogone View Drop Down
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Posts: 1042 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2014 at 9:16am
Huron:  Should I try the one from home depot for 12.97, or the camco #55382 for $26 (which appears to be the same/similar as the one on the campers world site(#69589) but 20 bucks cheaper)? 
Jon & Pam
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2014 at 2:51pm
Originally posted by CharlieM

...  With the two legs tied together there is no potential across 240V loads. They are supposed to be balanced loads by definition and not tied to the neutral/ground. ...

And it seems we are deviating from the RPOD theme Smile.

 
You are correct that L1 and L2 when tied together have no voltage potential.  Many 240 volt loads aren't strictly 240.  Some driers and washer/drier combos require 120 for the control board and nightlights on the door frames.  In an older home that only runs L1, L2 and ground to the drier plug (3 pins and not 4) this is fudged by using the ground as the neutral since they are tied together at the utility panel.  Things like well pumps can leak current to ground if there is a fault in the wiring.  If you only supply 120 via one leg and neutral or ground things can overheat since the item can't start or operate properly.
 
No issues with the wandering discussion - for starters this is in the Misc/Off-topic sub-forum.  Second, discussions change in the natural course of things, it happens.  It really ticks me off on other forums when mods lock threads or delete posts because they wander a little off topic.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2014 at 2:55pm
OK. I get it. And, as I say to our servicemen/women: Thanks for your service.
Charlie
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Posts: 9059 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2014 at 2:55pm
Originally posted by hogone

deviating, yes but an interesting discussion for hogone.  again for piece of mind for myself, is it safe and free of danger/harm to plug in the pod to the 120/240 receptacle with the right adaptor as the ones mentioned by huron?  if this has been clearly answered, i apologize.  hogone
 
As has been mentioned, that adapter will work fine.  However, you might just want to use a standard "hockey puck" adapter that allows you to plug into a standard 15 or 20 amp outlet.  That's all I use on my small genset.  You can only run one of the big items at one time - A/C  or microwave or electric element in the water heater, but it will work.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 1447 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2014 at 6:31pm
I think the danger of counting on the main breaker being tripped to prevent electrocution of a lineman has been covered, but with the suggestion that the generator backfeed the house through the Pod makes me once again state that should for some reason even with the best of intentions the breaker doesn't get flipped and someone gets hurt you will be responsible and most likely spend lots of money and time in court.  The cost of a real transfer switch is small in comparison.  I strongly suggest not to play with fire.  I read about this type of accident at least once per year when a well meaning person made a mistake.
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Posts: 704 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2014 at 7:33pm
Originally posted by hogone

Huron:  Should I try the one from home depot for 12.97, or the camco #55382 for $26 (which appears to be the same/similar as the one on the campers world site(#69589) but 20 bucks cheaper)? 

Good question. I looked at web site of the company that furnishes Home Depot's adapter and there just ain't much information there. I haven't done any more research than that as of yet. I am curious about their internal guts. How do they convert 220 to 110? Do they have a tiny transformer inside? A bank of resistors? A blob of Kryptonite? Do they just tap one leg of the 220 output and run all imbalanced?!

For $13 I might buy one from Home Depot and dissect it.
.: Mark & Beth :: Silverado 5.3L :: 2018 rPod 180 :.
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2014 at 7:40pm
Originally posted by Keith-N-Dar

I think the danger of counting on the main breaker being tripped to prevent electrocution of a lineman has been covered, but with the suggestion that the generator backfeed the house through the Pod makes me once again state that should for some reason even with the best of intentions the breaker doesn't get flipped and someone gets hurt you will be responsible and most likely spend lots of money and time in court.  The cost of a real transfer switch is small in comparison.  I strongly suggest not to play with fire.  I read about this type of accident at least once per year when a well meaning person made a mistake.


Definitely concur. I don't think anyone has suggested the generator backfeed the house through the Pod. I suggested that, if the house is wired properly with a transfer switch and a 30A outlet for the Pod, you'd be set up to run the pod from the house without any special adapters.
Charlie
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 2014 at 7:43pm
Originally posted by HuronSailor

Originally posted by hogone

Huron:  Should I try the one from home depot for 12.97, or the camco #55382 for $26 (which appears to be the same/similar as the one on the campers world site(#69589) but 20 bucks cheaper)? 

Good question. I looked at web site of the company that furnishes Home Depot's adapter and there just ain't much information there. I haven't done any more research than that as of yet. I am curious about their internal guts. How do they convert 220 to 110? Do they have a tiny transformer inside? A bank of resistors? A blob of Kryptonite? Do they just tap one leg of the 220 output and run all imbalanced?!

For $13 I might buy one from Home Depot and dissect it.


The cheap adapter is filled with unobtanium encased in raw Chinium.
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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