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Important - check this every time you set up

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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote GlueGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Important - check this every time you set up
    Posted: 18 Dec 2017 at 9:35am
My "other meter" is a Fluke, which I bought for the company before I retired. It's a very nice meter; incredibly accurate, and pretty much auto-everything. I love it. However, it doesn't have NCVT, nor an ammeter clamp. That's why I sprung for the Klein.

I have bought cheap DVMs and the like in the past. They are all in the trash heap of history. They usually work very well... for a while. I've had the Fluke for at least 5 years, and it's as reliable now as it ever was.

But people should get whatever they are comfortable with. I'm not advocating that you need to buy an expensive meter/test tool. Get what works for you, and learn how to use it.
bp
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Post Options Post Options   Quote techntrek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2018 at 7:34pm
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jmsokol Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2018 at 5:12am
Originally posted by GlueGuy

My "other meter" is a Fluke, which I bought for the company before I retired. It's a very nice meter; incredibly accurate, and pretty much auto-everything. I love it. However, it doesn't have NCVT, nor an ammeter clamp. That's why I sprung for the Klein.

I have bought cheap DVMs and the like in the past. They are all in the trash heap of history. They usually work very well... for a while. I've had the Fluke for at least 5 years, and it's as reliable now as it ever was.

But people should get whatever they are comfortable with. I'm not advocating that you need to buy an expensive meter/test tool. Get what works for you, and learn how to use it.

I agree entirely. But in the engineering world I live in there's a saying about tools: Buy once, cry once... That is, really good tools will last for decades if you take care of them. But cheap tools are expensive since they usually break in a few years and need to be bought over and over again. I tell my engineering students to buy a Fluke meter since it will be respected by everyone on their crew, plus it will last for the rest of their careers. But companies like Klein, Amprobe and others make quality products that should serve perfectly well for most RV owners. 

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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote GlueGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2018 at 10:36am
Originally posted by jmsokol

I agree entirely. But in the engineering world I live in there's a saying about tools: Buy once, cry once... That is, really good tools will last for decades if you take care of them. But cheap tools are expensive since they usually break in a few years and need to be bought over and over again. I tell my engineering students to buy a Fluke meter since it will be respected by everyone on their crew, plus it will last for the rest of their careers. But companies like Klein, Amprobe and others make quality products that should serve perfectly well for most RV owners. 
If you calculate the cost of one broken tool to include the time lost on the job because of the broken tool, suddenly the "expensive tool" doesn't look so expensive any more.
bp
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Post Options Post Options   Quote mcarter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2018 at 3:45pm
I've bought tools 40 years ago I still have today, I have bought the same brand in the last five years, I've discarded. I have Fluke products I have had repaired under warranty that are 40 years old and Craftsman products I have returned and been replaced. Those days are ending as quality goes downhill. Not to say they are not quality makers, but they are getting harder to find.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote furpod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2018 at 4:15pm
Originally posted by mcarter

I've bought tools 40 years ago I still have today, I have bought the same brand in the last five years, I've discarded. I have Fluke products I have had repaired under warranty that are 40 years old and Craftsman products I have returned and been replaced. Those days are ending as quality goes downhill. Not to say they are not quality makers, but they are getting harder to find.


Yeppers. Just about exactly 40 years ago, I bought a Craftsman Master Mechanic tool set (it was just about 3 months of my little old PFC pay..) To this day, I have never needed to replace a single piece. I did have the 3/4 inch ratchet rebuilt about 25 years ago.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote babyboogerfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 8:45pm
"I still think the easiest test to make sure your RV doesn't have a hot-skin voltage is a basic NCVT such as the Fluke VoltAlert or Klein NCVT-1"

Can you or someone describe how this test can be done when 'hooking' up to a site with an electrical outlet?  I'm not following a-lot of the more experienced talk and jargon.  

Thanks!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote GlueGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2018 at 9:50pm
Originally posted by babyboogerfamily

"I still think the easiest test to make sure your RV doesn't have a hot-skin voltage is a basic NCVT such as the Fluke VoltAlert or Klein NCVT-1"

Can you or someone describe how this test can be done when 'hooking' up to a site with an electrical outlet?  I'm not following a-lot of the more experienced talk and jargon.  

Thanks!!!
The NCVT is Non-Contact Voltage Test, and you can use one to verify that the correct pin on the outlet is the hot one. You can also verify that ground and neutral are (more-or-less) the same potential. If those two things are correct, the outlet is wired correctly. You would still need to verify that the voltage is between 110 and 120, or close to that.

This explains the wiring: http://www.myrv.us/Imgs/PDF/30-amp%20Service.pdf
bp
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Post Options Post Options   Quote babyboogerfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 12:26pm
I started reading more from the Save Zone blog and I gather that if I test the voltage from the junction first, then the exterior of the camper with a no-contact test followed by a non-contact test internally for an outlet followed again by a voltage test I should be good?  So I need the non-contact meter and a voltage meter?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote GlueGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2018 at 1:00pm
Originally posted by babyboogerfamily

I started reading more from the Save Zone blog and I gather that if I test the voltage from the junction first, then the exterior of the camper with a no-contact test followed by a non-contact test internally for an outlet followed again by a voltage test I should be good?  So I need the non-contact meter and a voltage meter?
What I do is check to make sure the "correct" pin on the outlet is hot. Then I check to make sure I have the correct voltage between pins on the outlet. If that's OK, then you are 90% OK.

This will not protect you from surges or brown outs; only that the initial hookup is correct.
bp
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