Anti-Sway bars - Event Date: 27 Aug 2014 - 31 Aug 2014

Left side makes it easier for the driver to remove it before backing up, which is a reqirement for the stand-alone friction sway bars.

Get the sway control. One side should be fine for the pod. The need for a WD hitch depends on how big your vehicle is compared to the trailer. My F150 didn't need WD, but after experiencing some sway from these single axle trailers I'm now a believer in adding it. 

I've got a Husky friction sway bar.  http://www.huskytow.com/product/sway-control/ .  But there's one from Reese thats essentially the same.

Purchased it from my local dealer (Campkins in Whitby) for about $80.  Most any dealer who sells small trailers (e.g. popup/tent trailers) will carry them.  The install was reasonably simple: I had to drill 6 holes in my trailer tongue for self-tapping screws - I recommend a titanium bit to make it easier.  Also, I had to have a metal tab (included with the sway bar) welded to my hitch - which my dealer was able to do for $20 cash.  Note that friction bars are left-sided or right-sided, so make sure you have the tab welded (and drill those mounting holes) on the correct side.

My story is the same as Outbound's - about 2 years w/o anything until one very windy day.  At the time I had a Sienna so I took care of 2 problems and got a WDH that includes sway control.  A world of difference in ride quality with the WDH acting as an additional suspension system.  When I moved to my current TV I tried half a trip w/o and half a trip with my WDH and have always used it since.  Still rides better with it.

I'm towing our 179 with a 2014 Jeep Cherokee with a 4500lb tow rating.  No need for weight distribution hitch due to low tongue weight.  Installed an anti-sway bar...and I have yet to feel any wiggle even when passing a semi.  We just towed it across I-70 from Cincinnati to the Rocky Mountains.  My favorite quote is from my wife...."Is it still back there?"