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MurphDog 
Newbie 
Joined: 18 Oct 2014 Location: SLC, UT Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
 Topic: Water Heater Kaput?Posted: 31 May 2015 at 5:38pm |
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Hi Podders!
I bought a 2010 172 around June 2014. Since, we have used the Pod 3 times and for our first trip this season this past weekend. Maybe some of you more experienced RV-ers can help me out. I do not think our WH is working on LP or electric/ shore power. Last season we only dry camped and tried turning on the hot water a handful of times and never got hot water but just figured we didn't give it enough time to warm up. Well, this past weekend we went up to beautiful Jordanelle Reservoir just past Park City, UT. It was the first time we used shore power and we could not get the WH to work. I did quite a bit of googling to make sure I had everything set up right but maybe I missed something. Let me say that I think I believe I have all the water valves set correctly (H & C lines parallel, the middle handle perpendicular) and I did change the switch to 'on' in the outside WH panel. When I switch on the WH with gas inside the Pod, nothing seems to happen. I cannot hear the pilot light or burner kick on. The reset light never lights. the gas stove and furnace work perfectly. We let the electric power sit on for more than an hour and no change to the water temp there either. I also checked breakers and fuses. Nothing I could see. I did see two black 'reset' button looking things in the outside panel but it does not see like you can press them. I tried and it feels hard underneath your finger, not like a button is moving as you press in. Also, I do not believe I have ever turned on the WH without water in it. I know that will fry the electric heating element but even if I did, wouldn't the LP still work? Do you think the WH is a gonner? If so, is it best to replace with the same model or is there another brand/ model that is a direct replacement that has a better track record? Anything else I could be missing? Any advice would be very appreciated. Also, I did check the anode rod before winterizing last year and it seemed to be in decent condition. Thanks! Dean
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2010 R-Pod 172, 2010 Mazda CX9
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp 
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 31 May 2015 at 9:30pm |
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Usually a complaint of little to no hot water ends up being the valves behind the water heater not set right. Be sure the handles of the top and bottom ones are parallel to the pipe, and the one in the middle is perpendicular to the pipe.
Next is the lack of sound when using LP mode. After turning on the switch the red light should come on briefly and then the WH should light right up (no pilot light on these, just the burner). The sound should be unmistakable if you are standing outside next to the WH. It should give you warm water in 10 minutes and hot water in 20. If it isn't lighting I would check the reset buttons you mentioned - I never had to reset mine so I don't know how they feel. I would also make sure the WH is getting 12 volt power. You'll have to do that from inside. As for electric mode, make sure the breaker on the converter is on (inside), and the switch outside is on. It is possible the element was burned out by the prior owner. That is fairly easy to replace.
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MurphDog
Newbie
Joined: 18 Oct 2014 Location: SLC, UT Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Posted: 31 May 2015 at 9:45pm |
what do you mean 'make sure it's getting 12 v from the inside'? Is this something other than the breaker and switch? Everything else you mentioned is in order. I'll see if I can find any more info. |
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2010 R-Pod 172, 2010 Mazda CX9
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MurphDog
Newbie
Joined: 18 Oct 2014 Location: SLC, UT Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Posted: 01 Jun 2015 at 10:05am |
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Well, turns out the electric element was a gonner. I replaced it with an element from HD which is 1500w vs the 1440w that the original was plus its a little bit shorter in length. Let me know if you think that's a problem. I saw on another post somewhere that someone else used the same part and said it worked. I have filled the heater with water but have not had a chance yet to fire it back up and see of its working. I will report back. I know the switch can go bad as well so fingers crossed!
Still at a loss as to why the LP part will not light. One thing at a time I guess... Cheers, Dean |
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2010 R-Pod 172, 2010 Mazda CX9
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 01 Jun 2015 at 10:53am |
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With a similar rating I think you are ok. Just turn on the outside switch and the breaker on the converter and you should be good. Many find it is easier to control the electric element using the breaker inside on the converter - some have even mounted switches next to the LP switch inside.
The LP side needs 12 volts for the electronic ignition. First check for any blown fuses on the converter, then open up the access panel on the inside of the pod where your WH is and find the 12 volt feed to the WH. Check that with a voltmeter to make sure the WH is getting power. If you aren't getting any red light when you turn on the LP switch I'd bet it is because there is no power.
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MurphDog
Newbie
Joined: 18 Oct 2014 Location: SLC, UT Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Posted: 01 Jun 2015 at 11:26am |
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Thank you Doug for the help and great info! Looks like my electric part of the water heater is now working. Success! I am a pretty handy guy, but for some reason when it comes to electrical stuff I am all thumbs. If it's not too much trouble, can you explain to me where I should be testing with my multimeter? I assume I should put it on a 12 volt setting?
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2010 R-Pod 172, 2010 Mazda CX9
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 01 Jun 2015 at 3:30pm |
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Glad to help. Yes put your multimeter on 12 volts DC (or the next setting higher). As for where to test, I don't have my 171 anymore so I can't tell you exactly. You should see the 120 line running to the WH, typical household Romex and pretty thick. The 12 volt line will be smaller and may have a colored stripe down one side. You may need to nick the insulation with a knife to take a reading if you can't find an exposed spot where it terminates at the WH (don't forget to cover it back up with electric tape).
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9059 |
Posted: 01 Jun 2015 at 3:31pm |
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And in the future when you de-winterize in the spring, make sure you run the hot water sink tap until it stops spitting air. Then you know the WH is full and you can then use the electric element.
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MurphDog
Newbie
Joined: 18 Oct 2014 Location: SLC, UT Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Posted: 10 Jun 2015 at 5:24pm |
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Ok. So I finally got around to some basic testing. Using a multimeter, the battery was showing 12.89v. At the WH switch inside the Pod, I pulled the leads off and tested those. I am only getting 8v and change there. I believe the next item in the circuit is the thermostat. I disconnected those leads and checked those and got nothing. Any ideas? I really don't want to go spend $$$ on a repair if I can do it myself.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Dean
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2010 R-Pod 172, 2010 Mazda CX9
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MurphDog
Newbie
Joined: 18 Oct 2014 Location: SLC, UT Online Status: Offline Posts: 12 |
Posted: 13 Jun 2015 at 10:15am |
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Well, I feel like a dope. I spent hours diagnosing my WH issues and it turns out it was just a blown fuse. Funny thing is that's the first thing I checked when my issues started. I must have either pulled the wrong fuse by mistake the first time I checked or just didn't notice it was blown as the RPod was kind of dark and even though its blown, it almost looks like it is fine. The good thing is I feel like I know just about every nook and cranny of the Pod and could diagnose and fix most issues (knock on wood).
I just wanted to say thanks to all the input and advice. Yeah for hot water! Cheers, Dean
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2010 R-Pod 172, 2010 Mazda CX9
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Water Heater Kaput?