Water Heater Kaput?

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   Hi Podders!I bought a 2010 172 around June 2014.  Since, we have used the Pod 3 times and for our first trip this season this past weekend.  Maybe some of you more experienced RV-ers can help me out.
I do not think our WH is working on LP or electric/ shore power.   Last season we only dry camped and tried turning on the hot water a handful of times and never got hot water but just figured we didn't give it enough time to warm up.  Well, this past weekend we went up to beautiful Jordanelle Reservoir just past Park City, UT.  It was the first time we used shore power and we could not get the WH to work.  I did quite a bit of googling to make sure I had everything set up right but maybe I missed something.  Let me say that I think I believe I have all the water valves set correctly (H & C lines parallel, the middle handle perpendicular) and I did change the switch to 'on' in the outside WH panel.  When I switch on the WH with gas inside the Pod, nothing seems to happen.  I cannot hear the pilot light or burner kick on.  The reset light never lights.  the gas stove and furnace work perfectly.  We let the electric power sit on for more than an hour and no change to the water temp there either.  I also checked breakers and fuses.  Nothing I could see.  I did see two black 'reset' button looking things in the outside panel but it does not see like you can press them.  I tried and it feels hard underneath your finger, not like a button is moving as you press in.  Also, I do not believe I have ever turned on the WH without water in it.  I know that will fry the electric heating element but even if I did, wouldn't the LP still work?
Do you think the WH is a gonner?  If so, is it best to replace with the same model or is there another brand/ model that is a direct replacement that has a better track record?  Anything else I could be missing?  Any advice would be very appreciated.  Also, I did check the anode rod before winterizing last year and it seemed to be in decent condition.  

Thanks!
Dean

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MurphDog Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 18 Oct 2014 Location: SLC, UT Online Status: Offline Posts: 12	Topic: Water Heater Kaput? Posted: 31 May 2015 at 5:38pm
	Hi Podders! I bought a 2010 172 around June 2014. Since, we have used the Pod 3 times and for our first trip this season this past weekend. Maybe some of you more experienced RV-ers can help me out. I do not think our WH is working on LP or electric/ shore power. Last season we only dry camped and tried turning on the hot water a handful of times and never got hot water but just figured we didn't give it enough time to warm up. Well, this past weekend we went up to beautiful Jordanelle Reservoir just past Park City, UT. It was the first time we used shore power and we could not get the WH to work. I did quite a bit of googling to make sure I had everything set up right but maybe I missed something. Let me say that I think I believe I have all the water valves set correctly (H & C lines parallel, the middle handle perpendicular) and I did change the switch to 'on' in the outside WH panel. When I switch on the WH with gas inside the Pod, nothing seems to happen. I cannot hear the pilot light or burner kick on. The reset light never lights. the gas stove and furnace work perfectly. We let the electric power sit on for more than an hour and no change to the water temp there either. I also checked breakers and fuses. Nothing I could see. I did see two black 'reset' button looking things in the outside panel but it does not see like you can press them. I tried and it feels hard underneath your finger, not like a button is moving as you press in. Also, I do not believe I have ever turned on the WH without water in it. I know that will fry the electric heating element but even if I did, wouldn't the LP still work? Do you think the WH is a gonner? If so, is it best to replace with the same model or is there another brand/ model that is a direct replacement that has a better track record? Anything else I could be missing? Any advice would be very appreciated. Also, I did check the anode rod before winterizing last year and it seemed to be in decent condition. Thanks! Dean
	2010 R-Pod 172, 2010 Mazda CX9