Tips for setting up a weight distribution hitch?

After posting photos of my 179 and TV on the Facebook group page, it was recommended by several people that I needed to get a WDH because the back-end of my TV was sagging a bit.

So, I have a WDH now (an Eaz-Lift eLite 600) and I think I understand the basic ideas about setting it up from the manual. I know I should set it up with the trailer loaded with the cargo it will normally have when traveling, but what's the best way to set it up to account for varying liquid weights in the tanks? How much does the tongue weight change?

I'm getting ready for my first outing in a little over a week and this single task is stressing me out.

Originally posted by grand beaver Don't sweat the small stuff friend!.....depending on your TV the WDH will be an improvement over stock any way you set it up. Put a reasonable load in both the TV and the trailer when adjusting the spring bars and you will be fine. I just installed a Fasteway E2/600 on my 179 and it was not bad at all. Follow the instructions which will probably include lifting the back of the TV with the hitch attached to the ball with the tongue jack making it easy to install some tension on the spring bars. Try and keep the spring bars parallel to the frame and you should be pleased. Unless your towing with an extremely small TV in high winds, down steep grades or at high speeds these lightweight trailers should tow great......Good Luck......

I must take exception to this phrase. An improperly adjusted WDH can be more dangerous than no WDH. If the WDH overcompensates it can take weight off the rear TV axle, leading to disaster. Read the instructions, understand the instructions, and proceed with caution. A properly installed and adjusted WDH can be a great improvement to towing safety and comfort.

The newest guidance is to try to only recover 1/2 - 3/4 of the drop at the rear wheel wells. Too much tension on the spring bars can put too much stress on the hitch and trailer frame and border on dangerous. As long as you get sufficient weight back on the front TV axle you've done the job. 

Yes, it is normal to see the bars flex. The WDH is not doing anything if the bars do not flex. The WDH need only put most of the weight removed from the front axle back on the front axle. That is it's primary function. Removing weight from the TV rear axle is a secondary benefit. Due to the geometry of the hitch placement relative to the rear axle both effects occur simultaneously (engineer speak...sorry). Yes, the bars should be parallel to the TT frame if possible, but this is less important for WDHs using chains because they don't rely on bar loading for sway control. Tilt of the ball is used to control bar angle. The last adjustment to be made is ball height and is made to achieve level or slightly tongue down attitude of the trailer. 

Thanks, all. Setup is finished. I measured the front and back wheel well heights without anything trailer-related on the TV. After I hitched up the trailer, I checked the wheel well heights on the same section of pavement. The front wheel well height was exactly as before (32-15/16") but the rear end dropped about 5/8".

We drove Boom&Bake from storage to Walmart and back, a little over 5 miles each way. My wife drove the first leg and commented about how well it drove. She was having a little problem with the trailer swaying in the strong winds, so I tightened up the sway bar for the return trip, which I drove. The trailer towed much more nicely than with the original hitch and the sway was gone. Other than a reduction in acceleration, I could hardly tell a trailer was attached.