Leveling blocks vs Tri-leveler

Originally posted by StephenH Originally posted by Happy Tripping ...chocks made from 2X4s, a roughly 20 inch long crossbar with 10 inch lengths at each end splayed out.  A ... more thorough description would help.

Give me old-school wood 2x6, they work every time!!!!

Originally posted by Happy Tripping "Thanks the BAL looks great but I was looking for a lower cost solution" Several years ago a forum member described chocks made from 2X4s, a roughly 20 inch long crossbar with 10 inch lengths at each end splayed out. He said it held airplanes so why not an r-pod?  I made them, they are heavy and bulky but the price is tight.

A picture or sketch of what you are describing or even a more thorough description would help. I am having a hard time visualizing what you are describing.
One other option for leveling that is pretty easy to use is an Andersen leveler. It is in essence, a curved ramp that one simply drives onto until the wheel is lifted enough to level the trailer. It is limited to 4" of lift, but that is often sufficient.
I have used the BAL leveler and agree that it is quite a workout to use it. Greasing the screw helps. It is capable of a higher lift than the Andersen leveler and has the advantage of not requiring driving onto of off of like boards or blocks. What I don't like is that the platforms that hold the tire are welded so that they do not stay flat to the tire, but tilt which distorts the tread and sidewall. That is the main reason I have not been using mine lately. Otherwise, I like that one can simply park the trailer and then level without having to guess, move, adjust, move, etc. until it is leveled. At small elevations, the distortion of the tire is not bad. For that though, the Andersen leveler is easier.

Originally posted by sailor323 I'd like to disagree with mountainrev.  We found that the BAL leveler was easiest to use on sites that were already more or less close to level.  It required a LOT of effort on sites that were not close to level.  Add to that the difficulty of getting the thing in place and removing it and it is an exercise in frustration.  Our BAL leveler is for sale

If you camp on relatively level sites, then the BAL is not the way to go, IMO.  Where it shines is when you have to raise one side 5" or more in order to level.  You would need a lot of boards or "Lego" blocks to do that!  It is a bit challenging, but I don't find it that hard.  But again, if you are in a site that is very sloped or rugged, like National Forest campgrounds often are, then I believe the BAL is the best option for leveling. 

The BAL can be challenging to get under the tire, especially if you have the 15" tires that come with the Hood River Edition.  If you drive unto a 1" or 2" board first, then it's quite easy to slide the BAL under the tire.  

I don't think you'll have much trouble selling yours.  They're pretty popular.

I'd like to disagree with mountainrev.  We found that the BAL leveler was easiest to use on sites that were already more or less close to level.  It required a LOT of effort on sites that were not close to level.  Add to that the difficulty of getting the thing in place and removing it and it is an exercise in frustration.  Our BAL leveler is for sale