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JandL View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Generator
    Posted: 20 Jun 2016 at 12:46pm
I think you may be dealing with too much capacitance. Wiring caps in parallel adds to their value, so it may look like a short circuit to your generator. If there is too little capacitance you could limit the current so you don’t get enough phase shift to produce torque to get the motor spinning. The air condition on my trailer is a Dometic 641415 and it comes with a Start cap and a motor run cap. I don’t remember the value of the start cap but it is less than the Supco cap.
From Wikipedia
“Start capacitors briefly increase motor starting torque and allow a motor to be cycled on and off rapidly. A start capacitor stays in the circuit long enough to rapidly bring the motor up to a predetermined speed, which is usually about 75% of the full speed, and is then taken out of the circuit. Afterward the motor works more efficiently with a run capacitor.”

Another issue you are dealing with running an air conditioner with a generator is volt drop. The lock rotor amps for my air conditioner is 61 amps. Typical circuit breakers won’t open if it’s only for a very short time. If you are plugged into a pedestal at an RV park you won’t see any voltage drop. Generators struggle with the motor start load so the generator RPM does not spin fast enough to make 60 Hz and 120 volts it can end up a lot lower. With lower voltage it now requires more current to get the motor to spin. Your generator is rated at 16.6 amps running and 18.3 amps starting. The one thing you will have trouble finding on a generator spec sheet is how long can they can produce this peak amperage.

The other big issue you are dealing with your air conditioner is wire gauge size. Mine is wired with 14 gauge and it should be 12 gauge. It evens says in the installation manual “12 AWG copper up to 24 feet. For distances over 24 feet consult the National Electrical Code”

The measurements I have made on my air conditioner are 23 amps to start and 16 amps to run. My meter is to slow to give me a peak reading. The 23 amps is what it reads while starting and it is only last seconds
JandL
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2016 at 3:06pm
Thanks for the additional information. I'll have to take a look at the wire size.
StephenH
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ron/roscoe View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2016 at 3:30pm
What size generator?
Ron Rowland
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2016 at 3:51pm
It is a Generac iX2000 2000 running Watts, 2200 surge Watts.
StephenH
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Sailor John View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2016 at 4:15pm
About small trailers and installed generators, Nash has a compartment set up and wired for a 2500 Onan propane generator in their 22 ft. a nice set up.
John & Reina
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ToolmanJohn View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jun 2016 at 4:25pm
Don't buy Powerhouse.... Extraordinarily difficult to start. I had one, it was broken (fuel line and pump system was defective), the warranty replacement was also a PITA to get started when cold. The remote start was useless when cold. The auto choke was also USELESS...

 They are terrible machines. Very heavy.   Save yourself some buyers remorse and get a Honda or Yamaha.

 I bought a Honda EU2000i for a little over $1000 and even though I have only used it ONCE in two years, it starts after a couple pulls very easy each time.

 And IF you install a battery disconnect switch to isolate the charger/inverter, the Honda can start and run the 13,5K A/C... When you connect the R-Pod to an A/C source (Shore power, household outlet, generator) the FIRST THING the inverter does is try to charge the battery(s). If you try to run the A/C the generator will trip on overload. If you first disconnect the battery, there is no charge load, and the generator is now only powering the A/C. It works every time for me in the driveway, and once at a campsite when it was 90°F outside at 5pm.

 I checked the load using a Killawatt Meter, and the wattage spikes to near 2000 on startup, but settles to 1300-1400 when running the compressor, less when only the A/C fan is running. The Honda definitely does a "bog down" when starting the A/C and it takes 2 -3 econds for the A/C to runn normally, but it always works.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2016 at 9:52pm
How does everyone carry their Honda 2000? Does it give fumes if we put inside door of pod? What about gas container once you fill? How do you manage smell?

I tried the Ryobi, It broke first time using, now am onto Honda. Heading out 1 week to dry camp Acadia.
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ronahue View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2016 at 10:10pm
We carry ours in the back of our pickup along with the gas can and all the other junk. 
Ron & Sharon
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 6:36am
The gas cap onthe Honda can be shut off (vent closed). You should NOT run the generator at least a day prior to your trip, so exhaust fumes won't be present in the generator.

 I took mine with me in the back of the SUV and used ties downs to prevent it from moving (my SUV has tie down points in the floor). I also had the genny in a large trash bag so no fumes.

 I have concerns about transporting the genny in the camper. If it were to tip, or fume, it would stink up the camper and make me sick all weekend. It is more likely to get bounced and jostled in the camper than the SUV. The SUV has better shocks.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2016 at 12:41pm
Put a cover of some sort on the generator. The cover should absorb most of the fumes. We've covered ours and never had an issue with fumes sinking into the upholstery. Our new Hondas came with nice form-fit covers that should accomplish the same task.
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