Dead batteries |
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PodDude
Groupie Joined: 13 Apr 2016 Online Status: Offline Posts: 51 |
Topic: Dead batteries Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 8:19pm |
Hey guys help me out with this one I installed a switch on my dual 12V batteries to cut the circuit when not in use based upon advice I got in this forum. we camped last weekend and I just went out to check things out for this weekend and the batteries were dead according to the gauge and there was no power to any of the appliances or radio. I had the key removed that complete the circuit on the battery is so I don't really understand how that could have possibly happened. it's charging now but before I hooked up the electricity I took a reading on the multi-meter and it read 12.7 to 12.72. I really have no clue what I'm doing with the multi-meter. anyways I hope it is fully charged tomorrow and no problems. we had no issues our first trip and after I brought it home I charged it and batteries were full charge for over a month so I can't quite understand. anyways any help would be appreciated thank you very much
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JandL
Senior Member Joined: 29 Mar 2014 Location: California Online Status: Offline Posts: 364 |
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 8:42pm |
When you got back from camping did you recharge the battery's? You said "according to the gauge and there was no power", are you referring to the gauge that also monitors the water tanks? If you are referring to that one and the battery switch is in the off position that gauge will show no voltage. If the battery's are being charge the wall gauge should light all the lights when the battery button is pushed and the battery switch is on. If you have hooked directly to the battery with your volts meter and it reads 12.7 that's a good reading. If the battery charger is charging then your volt meter should read 13.6 volts at the batteries. The refrigerator is the only appliance that can run on battery power. Do your lights or bathroom fan work.
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JandL
2013 Honda Ridgeline 2012 177 2 Paynes in a Pod |
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6326 |
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 9:02pm |
Let me see if I understand what you said. You had the key removed that completes the circuit. Did you put the key back in before you checked things inside?
When you wired the battery cutoff switch, where did you place it? Since you say you have dual 12V batteries, I am going to have to assume that you wired them properly in parallel. If so, then the switch should be placed on one of the two leads from the batteries to the R-Pod and not the connection between the two batteries. ---------Switch------- Neg Pos---------------- | | | | Neg Pos Alternate location which some prefer is to have it on the Pos lead instead of the negative. I prefer the negative as if you remove a negative lead and it touches metal, you won't get a spark like you would if a positive lead touched metal. It could also be that you got a defective switch that did not really isolate the batteries when you thought you had them switched off. Hopefully, this gives you a couple of things to check. |
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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PodDude
Groupie Joined: 13 Apr 2016 Online Status: Offline Posts: 51 |
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 10:18pm |
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PodDude
Groupie Joined: 13 Apr 2016 Online Status: Offline Posts: 51 |
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 10:24pm |
Reading 12.66 while I'm not charging, switch in on position. Nothing working. Get a little flash on the r pod battery gauge initially. Could it be a fuse?
Edit: everything working when plugged into shore power |
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6326 |
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 10:27pm |
Good. That is what I hoped I would see. Is the switch working properly? It does not make sense for the batteries to be reading 12.7V each and things dead inside unless the switch is either off, defective, or alternately, something like blown fuses in your power panel.
Edit: Should have read more closely. You got a short flash on the panel with the switch on? Check your power panel's 12V side. Check the two 40 Amp fuses plus the rest of them to be sure. Take your meter and see if you are getting 12V at the panel. Find a grounding point for the negative (black) probe and use the positive (red) probe to touch one of the blank sockets. You may have to do each side as I am not sure which one is the positive side. You should get a reading if you have power to the panel. |
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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PodDude
Groupie Joined: 13 Apr 2016 Online Status: Offline Posts: 51 |
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 10:33pm |
Would the fact that everything works on shore power indicate the switch is OK?
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StephenH
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 29 Nov 2015 Location: Wake Forest, NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 6326 |
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 10:37pm |
No, it wouldn't. If everything is working on shore power, it would indicate the converter is working to supply 12V to the system. You could be on shore power with no batteries and still have the 12V side working as long as the cables for the batteries did not short out.
For the test, please disconnect shore power. You want to be working on battery power to test. You need to see if the batteries are supplying power, not the converter. |
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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
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PodDude
Groupie Joined: 13 Apr 2016 Online Status: Offline Posts: 51 |
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 10:51pm |
Well I removed the switch from the picture and everything's working. Thanks so much! Bummer though. I wonder if it's the switch, or just too much connected to the post with the zamp and everything. Could water have damaged it? I'll just have to buy another.
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PodDude
Groupie Joined: 13 Apr 2016 Online Status: Offline Posts: 51 |
Posted: 24 Jun 2016 at 10:56pm |
Pics of removed switch
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