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Quick How To: Installing BAL Hide-A-Spare

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Post Options Post Options   Quote ChetC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Quick How To: Installing BAL Hide-A-Spare
    Posted: 22 Sep 2016 at 1:18pm
Just completed this and thought I would write out a couple quick notes to help anyone else who may want to do the same.

I opted for this model as, quite frankly, it was the one available on Amazon.

Location:  
-Mounted in front of axel, as close to axel as possible, without physically moving any clamps, wires, gas lines, etc...

Key Notes:  
-You will need to purchase, at a minimum, eleven (11) #14 x 1 1/4" self tapping screws.  I bought a couple extra just in case I lost one or two.  Also, a silver Sharpie is really handy.

-Pull the telescoping bars apart and cut 8 3/4" off the end of the main carrier bars and 8 3/4" from the inside bars.  It is important that you cut the inside end of the smaller bars as you cannot lose the bolt holes.  You will be losing the little detent balls but that's ok as you're not going to pull the spare out from under the camper like the Incredible Hulk so the chances of you telescoping the bars so far they come apart is minimal.

-Place the mount so you are pulling the tire out to the passenger side so should you have a flat you're not working on the traffic side to retrieve the spare.

-This spare tire carrier does NOT require exact measurements to install.  Do not fret over 1/4" one way or the other, everything will be just fine.

Process:
-Using two clamps, clamp the anchor end plate to the inside of the frame (closest to the center of the camper) on the driver's side, as close to the axel as possible and as low on the frame as possible so that you can still install the 6 self tapping screws.  The bottom of my plate was approximately 7 1/2" from the floor of the camper.  This spare tire carrier will easily swing side to side to remove the spare, so you do not need to worry about hitting the fender on the camper or anything of that nature.

-Slide your bars back together, and place the carrier under the camper.  Using the provided bolts, mount the inside bars to the anchor plate.  Snug up the bolts but remember that you're not trying to crush the pipe, just hold it in place.  Spacers go between the bracket and the pipe.

-Remove the frame plate from the "active" side of the carrier.  You'll need it in a few.  Mount your spare tire to the carrier.  It's going to stay there, so you can do it right.  I also put the spare tire cover over top of the tire as well, just... well, just because I had it and hated to throw it away.

-Now, pick up the spare and position it like you're putting it away.  You'll feel the tire go against the floor of the camper, which is what you want.  That will keep it from jostling going down the highway.  Move the carrier side to side until the plate is square on the outside of the frame.  Hold it in place and mark the location with the silver Sharpie.  

-Put the spare carrier back on the ground and then clamp the frame plate to the outside of the frame using the outline you drew with the Sharpie as a guide.  You'll notice that you can only install 5 of the 7 screws as the lowest two are below the frame.  It's ok.  Don't worry.  Five screws are plenty to hold the spare in place (there are only six on the other side and #14 self tappers are stout).  Install the five self tapping screws, swing the tire up and secure.  That's it.  Done.  

Ground Clearance:
More than the fresh water tank.

Final Notes:
-Self tappers are run in using an impact driver, no marking and drilling necessary.

-The pipe is thicker than you think.  I used a cutoff wheel to cut it but it is easily doable with a hacksaw.  Just know it's going to take a little effort.

-This is a super easy process, provided you have the tools.  Don't be afraid to do it yourself.

Hope this helps.
Former 2017 rPod 180 owner
Now in a 2019 Little Guy MAX
Full timer who logs more than 35,000 miles per year.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote voisj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2016 at 8:44pm
Just bought one and printed your instructions! I'll let you know how it goes.
rgds John

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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2016 at 8:49pm
When I installed mine, I re-drilled the holes for the detent springs and pins. On my 179, I installed it between the steps and the cross-bar for the rear hitch. There was plenty of room there with no tanks or other equipment in the way. A picture is in my mods.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote voisj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 2016 at 10:01pm
Just finished, took 1 hour, thanks for the helpful info!
 I only had  1 problem, and that was the tire was pushing so hard against the floor I could not get it up high enough to latch, and had to lower the first bracket just as you described the mounting of the second one. It takes some force but works now. Maybe the 15" hood river mud and snow tires are wider? 
Thanks again! John 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ChetC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2016 at 3:59pm
Originally posted by voisj

Just finished, took 1 hour, thanks for the helpful info!
 I only had  1 problem, and that was the tire was pushing so hard against the floor I could not get it up high enough to latch, and had to lower the first bracket just as you described the mounting of the second one. It takes some force but works now. Maybe the 15" hood river mud and snow tires are wider? 
Thanks again! John 

Ahh!  Mine is not a Hood River edition, so you are no doubt correct on the tire width difference.  I wouldn't worry about it pushing up on the floor of the camper as it will do nothing but offer support to the center of the floor, which has a little give anyway.  Glad it helped!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote M0tl3y Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2016 at 7:28pm
Originally posted by voisj

Just finished, took 1 hour, thanks for the helpful info!
 I only had  1 problem, and that was the tire was pushing so hard against the floor I could not get it up high enough to latch, and had to lower the first bracket just as you described the mounting of the second one. It takes some force but works now. Maybe the 15" hood river mud and snow tires are wider? 
Thanks again! John 

I had the same issue with mine, I just let some of the air out of the tire which allowed it to compress a bit and makes a nice snug fit so I know it's not going anywhere. I carry a tire pump anyway so I can add air back when the time comes.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote POD WE R Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2017 at 9:50pm
voisj: when you lowered the first bracket, what was the final measurement from the floor to the top of the plate that fits against the frame. How many screws were you able to install on that plate?


Thanks  





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Post Options Post Options   Quote voisj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 3:34pm
POD WE R,
2 1/4" from floor to top of bracket, and the two lowest outside holes are below the frame, I still got 6 screws into the frame.
rgds John
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Dromsie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 5:55pm
I just did this mod to my 182G HRE.  I had to have a friend weld a 2" extension onto the far side of the system (the plate that the poles run through) because I couldn't get the holes to line up with the frame without the tire pushing hard against the floor.  That plate is only 6" from the bottom of the tube to the top of the plate, while the other side is 8" from bottom of the tube to the top of the plate -- I was able to capture the top 3 holes in that plate. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote POD WE R Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 8:43pm
Thanks so much John. Hope to see you in AZ sometime.

Eddie
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