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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Texman 182g Mods
    Posted: 13 Mar 2019 at 5:52am
Clearly there is a transient from the dsi causing this, what's interesting is that using the relay makes it worse but it still happens without using the relay.  That appears to indicate that the logic circuit is getting whacked 2 different ways. If moving the tstat away from the dsi module eliminates the problem when not using the relay part of the problem may be that a transient voltage is being induced (without any actual connection) in the logic circuit by proximity to the dsi module or to the conductors running to the electrode from the dsi module. You could try wrapping the dsi module in foil and see if that stabilizes things with and without the relay in the circuit. My tstat is right next to my dsi module btw. 


FWIW it looks like we bought the "same" parts but from a different Amazon listing, sorta kinda, see below for mine. But that doesn't necessarily mean the actual tstats are the identical. I'll check today where I took my -12V supply from. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2019 at 9:44am
that is the exact stat that is setting in my amazon shopping cart that is was thinking of trying to see if it helped.  Seems like a better stat may help that is more isolated. 

since the dsi spark is basically a direct short to ground, using the ground terminal on the heater body is probably the worst place to use.  It should only make this worse.  There is definitely some sort of surface voltage jumping around with the noticed changes from proximity to heater body and module.  The back of that module is open and has an unused adhesive strip.  i did have to remount the module because the zip ties from factory broke. i used some solid copper insulated 20 ga wire wrapped around the styrofoam layer. so that module is setting next to that.  I am now thinking that could be contributing to the surface voltage spread for sure.  thoughts on that?

Just to set the base parameters in case i am doing/using something that is causing this:
  1. I am using 18 awg solid copper wire (thermostat wire) that is separated from the sheathing as conductors.  still has the wire insulation, just not the sheathing cover.  i have heavier stranded if that would help.
  2. my latest testing for water heater ignition is being done on an empty water tank.  i don't think a few seconds of heating is going to hurt anything but does it change the grounding somehow without water?  don't think so, but wanted to mention.
  3. plugged into shore power too. shouldn't matter i think.
  4. i may get another stat to test, i need a spare anyway in case one fails while in the boonies. just not sure if i should get the one you have or something that is encased. 
  5. most wire seems to be rated for 600volt max.  the dsi spark is around 20kv right?  how does that contribute to this? 
  6. I definitely need to find a different ground.  let me know what you fine. and thanks for all of your help.
PS just thought of this: the temp sensor is in direct contact to the metal tank which is grounded. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 2019 at 3:25pm
Originally posted by texman

that is the exact stat that is setting in my amazon shopping cart that is was thinking of trying to see if it helped.  Seems like a better stat may help that is more isolated.  Not sure about it being any better but its worth a try.

since the dsi spark is basically a direct short to ground, using the ground terminal on the heater body is probably the worst place to use.  It should only make this worse. I'm using the ground screw in the little jbox on the water heater also. There is definitely some sort of surface voltage jumping around with the noticed changes from proximity to heater body and module. Its likely not a direct application of voltage. Rapidly changing currents and voltages cause electromagnetic fields which can induce voltage and current in nearby circuit loops. The induced voltage is proportional to the field strength and the area of the circuit loop so it gets larger if you have a bigger area enclosed by a loop.   The back of that module is open and has an unused adhesive strip. Mine too.  i did have to remount the module because the zip ties from factory broke. i used some solid copper insulated 20 ga wire wrapped around the styrofoam layer. so that module is setting next to that.  I am now thinking that could be contributing to the surface voltage spread for sure.  thoughts on that? Seems doubtful but I suppose the wire loops you added could be increasing the induced voltage in the adjacent logic circuit (either in the board itself or its power supply wires).  I don't have wires wrapped around my styrafoam so that is one difference.  

Just to set the base parameters in case i am doing/using something that is causing this:
  1. I am using 18 awg solid copper wire (thermostat wire) that is separated from the sheathing as conductors.  still has the wire insulation, just not the sheathing cover.  i have heavier stranded if that would help.  I don't think heavier wire would make any difference, but I have my 12V tstat supply wires in a single 2 conductor cable up to where I end the +12V conductor where pick off the +12V, from there my -12V supply wire carries on to the ground point. That could make a difference as the high voltage dsi cable is adjacent and it could be creating a larger induced voltage in your power wires if they form a loop. Because mine are together I don't have a loop. You could try wrapping the two power wires around each other to create a twisted pair. In electronics cables that are used to carry small signals so need to be protected from voltage transients are usually either twisted together or shielded or both.
  2. my latest testing for water heater ignition is being done on an empty water tank.  i don't think a few seconds of heating is going to hurt anything but does it change the grounding somehow without water?  don't think so, but wanted to mention. I don't think so either. 
  3. plugged into shore power too. shouldn't matter i think. Agreed.
  4. i may get another stat to test, i need a spare anyway in case one fails while in the boonies. just not sure if i should get the one you have or something that is encased.  If its encased in plastic it won't change anything, the electromagnetic fields won't know its there, it would need to be in a metal enclosure. 
  5. most wire seems to be rated for 600volt max.  the dsi spark is around 20kv right?  how does that contribute to this?  Looks like the dsi cable is a high voltage cable, like you might have for a spark plug. That should keep it from arcing but it won't stop it from creating induced voltages in nearby circuits. That's why you sometimes get static on car radios when you turn the engine on. 
  6. I definitely need to find a different ground.  let me know what you fine. and thanks for all of your help. Looks like mine is in the same place as yours is. You could reattach it to any negative 12V wire in the trailer instead. If you have a totally isolated 12V source like another 12V battery you could connect the tstat to that and see whether that got rid of the problem (when the relay isn't connected). If it still didn't then you know that you are seeing induced voltage so twist the supply wired together and move the tstat and wires farther away from the dsi board and cable until it is stable. 
PS just thought of this: the temp sensor is in direct contact to the metal tank which is grounded.  Mine is pressed up against the metal tank also, but its possible yours isn't isolated and mine is. Check the resistance between the temp sensor case and the two leads. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 2019 at 10:41am
tried several different things to get the stat to work and no success yet.  i have not tried twisted pairs, metal enclosure or a separate battery.  i have a new stat coming tomorrow to try.  i did some ohm tests and bear in mind, i'm clueless on this.  22 ohm between the power supply from water pump and ground.  42 ohm between power supply from water heater and ground.  no resistance between relays or between either relay and logic power.  so i think it has to be the DSI hi voltage. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar 2019 at 1:26am
Don't worry, you're getting the hang of it quickly. First be sure your meter is working and you're reading it correctly. With the meter on ohms scale, hold the two probes apart in the air with your hands on the plastic parts, that should read near infinite resistance. Now touch the probes together, that should read zero or near zero resistance.

Don't try to measure resistance between positive and negative terminals of a power supply like a battery, you can blow the fuse in your meter. If you want to measure resistances between power terminals of a device, you have to disconnect it from all power first. If you say disconnect your water pump from the battery and measure between its positive and negative terminals that will give you the resistance of the internal windings of the pump motor, that's probably what the 22 ohms was. Perhaps interesting but not going to help in this case. Similarly the 42 ohms is probably the internal resistance of the dsi board and/or the gas soleniod on the water heater. 

The resistance between the tstat board relay terminals and between the relay and logic power terminals is going to be helpful, so lets focus on that. With the tstat disconnected from everything, no wires to it, and the probes in the relay terminals, fingers on the plastic parts, you should get a reading near infinite resistance, same or close to what you got when you held the probes apart in the air. That's because its a normally open relay so its contacts should be open when its powered off. 

You should see a similar very high resistance between either of the relay terminals and either of the logic power terminals, because the relay and the logic circuits are supposed to be isolated from each other. If there is really low or no resistance between those terminals then that might explain why the tstat is getting whacked by the DSI.  But there has to be some resistance there or nothing would be working, everything would be shorted together, so check again to be sure your meter is working and  you're not misinterprting the readings. 

Good luck with the new tstat board. 




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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2019 at 5:33pm
The new stat works like a charm.  I have no idea what the difference between them is other than one works and the other doesn't.  i ran the system for about 48 hours to test.  Temps are not freezing, but everything is working as intended. Smile

The only thing left is to finish covering the water tank with the TPO.  i am about halfway done with that.

  1. Couple of observations so far:  it is nice to have the valves controlled by one DPDT switch.  I had filled the water tank and hot water heater with fresh water but had not flushed the lines of antifreeze yet.  so i closed the mixing valve and dumped the lines of antifreeze and then activated the mixing valve to open to recirculation.  That way i didn't have antifreeze recirculating.  The main reason i did the automatic mixing valve was to be able to convert from cold temps back to normal temps easily and it worked well so far. 
  2. having the stat to control the water heater is really nice.  set it to say 60 deg at night for recirc on a cold night.  wont use much propane and will keep things flowing all night.  having four valves has been nice.  2 for recirc, one for mixing and one for flow control of return to fresh tank.  with the semi clear tubing and since i have a pressure tank in my system, i have the flow controlled so the water pump only powers on after around 2 gallons have gone through.  so, it may only take a cycle or two to get the temps back to safe levels in the lines. 
  3. if you try this and your thermostat flakes on water heater ignition, get a different one.  i am using the power from the heater to power the stat and ground to the heater body.  couldn't  be easier as long as you have the right stat. Even if you dont want to do the whole recirc system, the stat on the heater is nice i have to say.
  4. the hardest part of all of this is insulating the tank(which may be of limited benefit).  save yourself the trouble and spray foam it in place i say.  I would raise the jack about as high as i could to get some room under there, flame that tank as best i could, and spend 90 bucks on foam and be done, if had it to do again.  The time spent under the trailer is not easy.  if you have access to a service pit area, that would be nice!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 2019 at 6:40pm
Great! Glad everything is working well. Obviously there's something different about the stats. The new one you got is the same I have I think and it works fine for me as well.  

Have you done any measurements of propane use to try to get a handle on whether tank insulation is even needed? Even if its not freezing, if you set the recirc tstat to say 10  of 20 degrees above the expected  outside temp and ran it overnight that should give us enough data to figure out whether its needed or not.

When I do this I think I'll just try the single valve on the recirc line first. I'm a big believer in the KISS principle, and I'm already adjusting the water heater tstat and using the hot water line in lieu of ever using cold water. Saves wasting any water fiddling aroung getting the temperature right. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2019 at 9:13am
i have not done any propane measurement yet.  planning to, but i was just happy to have the new system running again and test that for now.  Big smile

preliminary tests show that it doesn't take much flow (gpm) to recirc the system and warm things up.  Even with the heater tank at 75 deg and outside temps around 35 deg, the cycle only runs a minute or two.  I am using well water, so temp of that is around 50 deg. of course, now that i finally have this all working, no freezing temps in the forecast.  But i have trusted the weather guessers before...

The tank insulation is mainly for an extended sub freezing event i think.  Just flirting with freezing for a few hours is not going to require that.  IMO.  Time will tell. 

after 48 hours

red is recirc mode and powers the recirc stat.
yellow is normal mode.  no mixing of water. 

switch has a center no power position as well to save a few milliamps.  for now i have the recirc side powered on and water pump on just in case it dips to low in the next few days.  water heater is off.  nice to have the flexibility.

attaching the TPO membrane.  not fun.  Ouch
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2019 at 9:14am
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2019 at 11:51am
my next project is replacing the dinette table top.  got a little wet, not much and turned to junk while i was working on the recirc project.  any suggestions for materials and methods?  i am thinking a piece of HDPE, butcherblock counter top, maybe.  i want to be able to set outside and not worry about getting wet.  also, i need to keep the dinette table config since we do use that area for bed.  
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