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Topic Closed2017 171. Hot water won't stay lit.

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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 2017 171. Hot water won't stay lit.
    Posted: 27 Jan 2019 at 1:43pm
Me either. Just trying to use the same name they are. Maybe they call it that because it also functions as a flame sensor? 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2019 at 1:26pm
Oh. You're (and they) calling the igniter an electrode. Sorry, not how I think about it.
bp
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2019 at 12:08pm
Yeah GlueGuy, there is.  They call the DSI device an electrode. It also acts as a flame sensor. I agree that the terminology is somewhat misleading. 



https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-232258-2-Prong-Electrode-Assembly/dp/B003G9IYQY?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5
 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2019 at 11:25am
There is no "electrode" for the gas part; only electric. There is a sacrificial rod to prevent electrolysis though. The sacrificial rod does not directly affect operation.
bp
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2019 at 7:30am
The electric and gas are completely independent systems so the electrode could be bad and have no effect on the electric side of the water heater. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2019 at 7:22am
Pod is out of warranty, but suburban HWH is still under.

Just trying to decide if its worth dealing with it or should I just buy the board.

If the HWH works on electric, would the electrode still be bad?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan 2019 at 4:31am
If you're out of warranty and want to fix it yourself the circuit boards are about $75 on Amazon and the electrodes are $15. 

The troubleshooting guide points you at the electrode first and has some cleanup instructions. I'd suggest doing that first especially since you've already had crud in there. If that doesn't work then the next step is probably just to replace the board, as others here have suggested.

The comments on Amazon and various RV websites seem to indicate that there have been a lot of issues with these boards, some folks having replaced them more than once. There is an aftermarket board that seems like it might have a better reputation, cost is only a few $ higher.

https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/


If it was me, I'd replace the electrode while I was in there, its only another $15 and apparently bad electrodes can sometimes kill the circuit boards. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2019 at 4:20pm
Sounds like the control board.   I had thr same problem last year with our 2017 pod. Luckily it was still on warranty and it was replaced for free. I got it repaired on a trip in Utah at a local rpod dealer they said they had done several so far that year so there may have been a "bad batch of boards" took all of about half hour to do.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2019 at 3:09pm
Here's the service manual if you want to keep at it further.

http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Suburban_Water_Heater_Service_Manual.pdf

Reading the DSI troubleshooting section it looks like it could be the flame sense electrode. There is a 6.8 second trial period after the burner is lit. The electrode sends a few microamp signal to the DSI control board when it senses the flame is lit and if not it will go through the lockout cycle. A regular multimeter won't measure currents that low, but short of buying a microammeter there are a couple of suggestions of things to try including cleanup of any crud and corrosion and assuring proper grounding. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2019 at 2:33pm
Contact Forest River to see if there is an authorized repair place near you that might be able to address this earlier.
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