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Topic ClosedRpod 177 rear window leak

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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Rpod 177 rear window leak
    Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 3:24pm
I used the 4" eternabond tape for the spoiler long section(side to side) coverage.  I cut the tape into 2" strips for the 2 side pieces(front to back). I ordered the 10' roll in black . clean the original surfaces carefully, tape a straight line across the roof and apply the tape. Be careful because it STICKS tight-you cannot move or relocate it. Once it is down, I rolled it with a 2" roller to insure no air bubbles. Look at the eternabond site for lots of info about the material and installation.
I checked it a couple of weeks after installation and it looks perfect-the edges are tight and no bubbles. I think it will last a long time.  Looks and works much better than using dicor for this type of application. dicor is good around different levels because it is self leveling compound. Etnerabond tape is good for sealing cracks/openings that are already approximately level.
Vann


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 12:49pm
I tried the Eternabond, but it did not adhere, though I've used it with good luck in other applications.  Surface was cleaned prior to application.  May be my fault.  Had to buy a new spoiler (since original was too warped to reuse), which is the same flimsy stuff as the original. But IMHO a straight spoiler can be fully sealed.  First, use stainless steel screws (there is nothing but the outer seating to bite into).  Old screw holes should be filled and sealed, for the new spoiler was slightly differen in hole spacing.  Take foam off of new spoiler and clean and roughen the surface beneath it.  Run a heavy bead of sealer (I used 3M 4200, which is a sealer and adhesive). to seat the spoiler in.  Be sure to fully seal wiring hole (mine was not sealed at all).  Then, once reinstalled, seal edge with Dicor non sag sealant.  Be sure to seal tops of screws. Only an opinion, but I would go the Dicor route before the tape. My problem with the tape was the warped and very uneven surface of the spoiler.  BTW, FR is well aware of this issue and how a redesign can fix it.  Perhaps on the newer ones it has addressed the problem.     
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 11:56am
Could you please remind me what width eternabond you used?
Julie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 10:32am
+1 to both cleaning the old sealant. I used mineral spirits to remove the old Dicor sealant and then used denatured alcohol to do a final cleaning before putting down new sealant. That was before I knew about Eternabond tape. If I were doing it again, I would probably go that route.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 9:27am
If you are trying to work on the spoiler as a proactive measure, I would recommend using Eternabond tape. I bought a 10' roll of black tape and used most of it on the spoiler. As noted in an earlier post, it is important to clean off the old dicor or silicone and then use alcohol or mineral spirits to clean the roof/spoiler.  I put one continuous piece across the length of the spoiler and then 2 short pieces up each side.  this should permanently seal any potential leaks from that area.
Vann

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2020 at 10:00pm
I think it was a combination. The heat softened the plastic and the foam pushed it up.
StephenH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2020 at 9:54pm
I don't think it is the foam gasket that made the spoiler lift between the screws, it is the stupid black colour makes the spoiler hot and  the spoiler buckle.
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2020 at 8:04pm
With my spoiler, when I removed it to check, I found that the screws had not been adequately sealed as I saw from the corrosion. However the wires had been very well sealed so there were no leaks. I had pulled it off to re-seal it where it had lifted up between the screws. When it went to the factory, the curved spoiler was replaced with the straight one that appears to be made from a stiffer plastic and has not lifted the same way. I have not had any leaks. I have not removed it to verify that the wires had been sealed again, but not having any leaks is a positive sign.

Part of the problem is that the spoiler had a foam pad running along the edge for sealing. When it was screwed down, the screws pulled those places down, compressing the foam. Between though, the foam was pushing the plastic up. It needed some reinforcing to spread the force more evenly over the spoiler's edges. Dicor is a patch that helps unless it is compromised. If the bottom edge is totally sealed, then any water that gets in at the top edge is trapped. That is why the front and sides need to be well sealed and the back/bottom edge should have a gap for drainage, much like the weep slots in the windows.
StephenH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2020 at 6:34pm
Spoiler leak is notorious (as per dealer).  Expect no help from mfg.,though it is a known defect.   Best repair requires removal of spoiler and use of proper sealer.  Short of that, use Dicor all around it after thorough cleaning of old sealant.  don't attempt silicon sealer!  Problem is screw holes of spoiler leak as does hole under it for the running lights in it.  If you decide to do complete repair, contact me for more details.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2020 at 8:31am
More reason to suspect spoiler. Those leaks can be really tricky. When my spoiler leaked the only indication I got was floor of trailer on the bottom, at very rear of trailer was wet. I was installing back-up lights when I found floor soaked.
Mike Carter
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