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slowmini View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: newbie with a 182g - appliance questions
    Posted: 05 Apr 2021 at 5:41pm
Hi all, 

We became a proud owner of a 2019 182g 10 days ago, its our first TT, getting familiar with everything there is in and out, testing out all the appliances as well, been checking many r pod for dummies youtube videos, however we still have a feel questions regarding the appliances : 

1. 3 way refrigerator : which power do you usually run on at campsite? (we will most likely going to sites with full service for now) also, can i run it with 12v and put things in it on our way to the campsite to keep food cool?

2. Furnace - does it run on propane only?

3. Water pump - it runs on both 110v and 12v correct?

4. Water heater - the "on off" switch next to the anode rod is when you want to use electrical power 110v/12v, the "water heater" switch next to the "water pump" switch on the panel is when you want to use propane, correct?

Thank you in advance.
Ricky
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Pod People View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2021 at 6:04pm
Hello Ricky,
Welcome to the forum and congrats on your pod. There are lots of people on this forum that have hundreds of years of cumulative rv experience.  Everyone's experiences are different and we all like to express our opinions. so, you've come to the right place for questions.
To answer-
1-The 3 way ref is just that-it will run on all 3 power sources--12v(battery), 120v(shore power)or propane. Most people will use shore power when possible,whether at home keeping it plugged in(which also keeps your battery charged) or in a campground with services.  Most(but not all) will use propane while traveling to/from the campsite as well as at the campsite if you do not have access to 120v. some people will use the 12v from the tow vehicle 7 way plug. Using 12v power to operate the refrig takes substantial  power and can wear down the battery sooner  However, 12v power is required to run the ref. electronics.
2-furnace runs on propane for flame fuel and heat. However, the fan is on 120v IF plugged in to power or on 12v if not plugged in.  Running the fan on 12v uses a lot of energy and will run your battery down pretty quick(overnight if really cold).
3-water pump will run on 120v if plugged in and 12v if not plugged in.
4-Water heater is correct as you noted. However, for faster recovery/heating, you can use both propane and electric at the same time.

Another important note about the electrical system-when the pod is plugged in to 120v power, the on board converter will keep the battery charged and also converts 120v to 12v so that all 12v items also work while plugged in.  If the pod is NOT plugged in, the 120v receptacles, the A/C, the M/W and maybe the tv will not work.
others will chime in and be glad to help with other questions

have fun and travel safe
Vann

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StephenH View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2021 at 9:08pm
I agree in part with what Vann wrote. However, the furnace and water pump run on 12V, not 120V. That is why they will work whether or not shore power is available. The converter does supply 12V power for both running appliances and charging the battery/batteries. If you only have the stock 12V battery, then don't expect long life. If you plan on dry camping, you will need to go with more available power such as two 6V GC2 batteries wired in series to provide 12V, or a larger 12V battery or, go away from lead-acid entirely and install a LiFePO4 battery. You can see my mods to see what I did. Conversion to LeFePO4 is not just a swap. There are other changes that will need to be made. However, the weight savings for a higher capacity system is significant.
StephenH
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jato View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2021 at 7:16am
I found the above post 'interesting' as I was not aware that both furnace and water pump only run on 12v.  So I did a test yesterday by disconnecting my 12v battery and then plugging into 120 shore power.  Found out that both pump and furnace work on shore power alone so maybe the newer R-Pods work the way StephenH states but older ones like mine (built January 2011) do not need 12v to function.

I agree that a pair of 6v golf cart batteries will last longer than a pair of 12v batteries but for the past 10 years I have been running a pair of deep cycle group size 24 Interstate 12v batteries that will give me 6 days of great service when boondocking when night temps are in the 40's and the furnace runs a lot.  I do take great care in making sure the battery is not drawn down lower than 60% S.O.C. or 12.2v before changing out.  Maintenance is key here and when these 10 year old batteries finally die, I may likely change over to the 6v batteries but with the performance received thus far with the current setup, I may have to ponder hard over the final decision.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2021 at 8:27am
Jato, with your battery disconnected but shore power connected you still have 12v to your loads from the WFCO charger. That's why your furnace and water pump still work. The fridge also needs 12V to operate it's controls, even when it's on propane.

I don't think you'll be happy with golf cart batteries, they are very unlikely to last as long as what you have now due to their different chemistry. The tradeoff is you can cycle them more but obviously with your usage pattern that's not an issue. I'd suggest that since what you're doing now works well for you just stay with that in future. Why fix what ain't broke?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2021 at 9:36am
[QUOTE=offgrid]Jato, with your battery disconnected but shore power connected you still have 12v to your loads from the WFCO charger. That's why your furnace and water pump still work. The fridge also needs 12V to operate it's controls, even when it's on propane.

Thanks OG, i wasn't aware that the WFCO was converting shore power to 12v for the pump and furnace.  I did know that 12v is necessary to run the mother board/control panel on the Dometic fridge. 

Have gone back and forth on the 6v vs. 12 v for years.  Fortunately the pair of 12v Interstates have served us well.  Also, the fact that two 12v weigh in at 100 lbs or so verses two golf cart 6v @ 130 lbs or so is a factor as well saving on tongue weight.  Of course the other caveat is we leave with a full FW tank (tank behind axle) adding an additional 300 lbs BUT haven't forgotten your wise advice/study on having at least 11% hitch weight to reduce/eliminate sway.  That has worked very well for us, again thank you OG and all the others on this forum that have given sound advice on this forum.

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'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2021 at 9:49am
Battery weight is almost all lead which of course translates to capacity. So the bigger gc2 batteries will have more capacity too, but if you don't need that and have enough weight on the tongue then 100 lbs is better.

In your case I think you are careful about state of charge and frugal in electric usage so as not to need the GC batteries. If you stick with what you know and eventually replace your current batteries with 2 indentical new 12V ones you could probably leave them both connected, just connect the + to one battery and the - to the other to keep them balanced.



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slowmini View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2021 at 10:45pm
Thank you for all your comments and answers 

Originally posted by Pod People

Hello Ricky,
Welcome to the forum and congrats on your pod. There are lots of people on this forum that have hundreds of years of cumulative rv experience.  Everyone's experiences are different and we all like to express our opinions. so, you've come to the right place for questions.
To answer-
1-The 3 way ref is just that-it will run on all 3 power sources--12v(battery), 120v(shore power)or propane. Most people will use shore power when possible,whether at home keeping it plugged in(which also keeps your battery charged) or in a campground with services.  Most(but not all) will use propane while traveling to/from the campsite as well as at the campsite if you do not have access to 120v. some people will use the 12v from the tow vehicle 7 way plug. Using 12v power to operate the refrig takes substantial  power and can wear down the battery sooner  However, 12v power is required to run the ref. electronics.
2-furnace runs on propane for flame fuel and heat. However, the fan is on 120v IF plugged in to power or on 12v if not plugged in.  Running the fan on 12v uses a lot of energy and will run your battery down pretty quick(overnight if really cold).
3-water pump will run on 120v if plugged in and 12v if not plugged in.
4-Water heater is correct as you noted. However, for faster recovery/heating, you can use both propane and electric at the same time.

Another important note about the electrical system-when the pod is plugged in to 120v power, the on board converter will keep the battery charged and also converts 120v to 12v so that all 12v items also work while plugged in.  If the pod is NOT plugged in, the 120v receptacles, the A/C, the M/W and maybe the tv will not work.
others will chime in and be glad to help with other questions

have fun and travel safe
Vann

Vann, does that mean when my pod is connected to my tow vehicle 7 pin when towing, it's actually supplying 12V power to the whole pod the whole time? or only when I turn on the fridge with 12V pwoer source selected?



I also noticed - the roof top AC and convection oven both needs shore power 120 @ 30amps, correct? I was connected to 120V/15amp (with the adapter) earlier and couldn't get the AC to work....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2021 at 1:23pm
The tow vehicle is supplying all the 12v circuits in the trailer just like your home panelboard is supplying all your home circuits. If a load is off the it's not taking any power of course.

The a/c should work on a 15a circuit but that is a little marginal so your home circuit breaker could be tripping. Did your microwave operate? If so then check the breakers in the trailer panel. If not then check the home breaker your using to feed the trailer. Turn off all the other loads on that circuit both in the house and trailer, including the fridge, 120ac water heater element and the battery charger.
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