DC outlets

+1 I did the same plus changed to a 12V TV. I ran 2 small fans, the TV, the stereo. and charged a phone all in that circuit. No blown fuse issues.

Remember that the fuse is there to protect the wire. If it blows it's doing its job, it's only a problem if you don't have a replacement fuse. If you ever did blow a fuse. just replace it and reduce current consumption on that circuit.

Not sure how this works, since this was an older post. But I have read where people have put DC outlets into their pods. The idea of using the space above the stereo appeals to me, there's a good mounting spot there. My only concern is Tying into the stereo power. I believe it has a 15 amp breaker. I want to add an outlet that includes two USB charging ports and a voltmeter for the system and one car charging style outlet. The most I would ever plug into the outlet is about 65 watts. Running the stereo/dvd player at the same time that I use the outlet might be asking too much of that one fuse. What do you think? 2016 Rpod 180

The problem really isn't the receptacle/outlet. You could use any rated receptacle for a 12v circuit. The problem is the plug, the danger being that if you wire up your 12v appliance with a plug that is normally used at 120vac you could later inadvertently connect it to a 120vac circuit and find out where the smoke was hidden.

Hence the cig lighter convention. The cig lighter outlets are typically rated for 15a which will provide around 180 watts.

There are surface mount MC4 connectors available if you can find them but that is really overkill anyway for 12vdc as they are rated for 600vdc (non load break). You can readily get SAE surface mount connectors (like the "solar port" on rpods). I'd suggest using that if you don't like the cig lighter standard. Just cut off the cig lighter plugs and replace them.

Check the current rating of the connectors you get (you see numbers between 15 and 30a) and if the manufacturer doesn't list one then try to get something else. The wiring also has to be able to handle the current (14awg for 15a, 12awg for 20a, 10awg for 30a). Also be sure that you wire the appliances you connect for the same polarity you have wired the wall receptacles as the SAE standard doesn't specify that. And use the applicable fuses back at the distribution panel...

Originally posted by lostagain I don't know why someone doesn't come up with a better 12v plug system than the clunky cigarette lighter style.  For dry camping, more 12 plugs would be handy, but the big cigaret lighter tube plugs take a lot of space inside the wall, limiting where they can be installed and the male part of the plug is vulnerable to getting hit and damaged.  The SAE style plugs used for the newer solar connections, or something like it, would work much better.

I don't know why someone doesn't come up with a better 12v plug system than the clunky cigarette lighter style.  For dry camping, more 12 plugs would be handy, but the big cigaret lighter tube plugs take a lot of space inside the wall, limiting where they can be installed and the male part of the plug is vulnerable to getting hit and damaged.  The SAE style plugs used for the newer solar connections, or something like it, would work much better.