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Topic ClosedHelp on sway control and hitch

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hogone View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Help on sway control and hitch
    Posted: 02 Dec 2013 at 6:41am
ok, thanks; that's what I thought I had read in the past.  it's interesting however that none of the sellers of these mention this, unless it does in the instructions.  curious however, why while backing?
Jon & Pam
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2013 at 8:27am
Because you may need a more angled turn while backing versus pulling. Plus the weight of the trailer pulls the bar while towing but backing the force is opposite with the car pushing the trailer. 

Regardless, when you pull up to a parking spot, just get out, loosen the bar, and back up. If you forget, you will be reminded as you hear the groaning of the bar. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2013 at 9:03am
Originally posted by hogone

sleepless:  I was talking about a bracket that gets welded to the receiver hitch for the ball for the sway bar to attach to.  ya, the bracket that attaches to the pod is screwed in.  I found a bracket that just fits under the ball however, like the picture jloftin60 posted.  i think outbound used the bracket that gets welded onto the receiver hitch.  hope that all makes sense.  do you find that a sway bar helps alot?


Most WDHs come with the hole for a sway control bar already drilled in the receiver hitch on the right side of the coupler ball.  I assumed you already had a WDH.  As the others have said, a sway bar makes all the difference in the world.  Once I have the tension lever set in the best position, I have never found a need to further adjust it.  When I have to remove it, I turn the lever 2 complete turns counter-clock wise to loosen it, remove the pins at each end and it comes right off.  Then, when you mount it again in the future, slip it on, insert the 2 pins, turn the lever 2 turns clockwise to set it, and you are done.  It takes only a matter of seconds to do it each time.
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 2013 at 12:43pm
Originally posted by Sleepless

Most WDHs come with the hole for a sway control bar already drilled in the receiver hitch on the right side of the coupler ball. 
 
To clarify, my comment was about WDHs that have friction control built-in, like the Equalizer or E2.  There are some that don't, usually the ones that are chain-based.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec 2013 at 1:08pm
We tow our 177 with an Armada -- which is a plenty big tow rig.  But I still opted for the anti sway.  No sway problems at all.  Now if they can just find a way to take care of that little bit of disconcerting sway that comes with the grooved freeways around here . . . but then again everything sways on that!  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2013 at 5:07pm
I tow my 171 with no WDH and No sway bar. I have my tires aired up, I have my trailer nose heavy. I do not load cargo on rear bunk, I removed my rPod table and I stack anything I want to haul there. I haul with bare minimum water. I have my trailer level with my hitch. I keep my TV tire pressure up.

I do not have sway. I do not have loss of control when passed by semi trailers. I do not have problems backing up. I do not haul the extra weight of a WDH (I have had them on other rigs - groan)

I do have two batteries now, this adds to front weight.

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Pathfinder 4WD R-POD Model 171
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2014 at 2:08am
I'm about to order an E2 WDH/sway set-up for our 177 on the 4runner TV. 600/6000 or 400/4000? Oddly, the 600/6000 is cheaper but sounds like it needs more weight on the ball to hit the sweet spot. Advice appreciated.

Edit: currently our 177 has dual batteries. I'll be adding a second propane tank and fabbng a two bike rack. Maybe I should order the 600/6000 and call it a done deal.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2014 at 7:39am
The factory has verified you can go with any model above the minimum required for your situation.  I opted for the 600/6000 model in case I moved up to a heavier camper.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan 2014 at 10:16am
Originally posted by techntrek

The factory has verified you can go with any model above the minimum required for your situation.  I opted for the 600/6000 model in case I moved up to a heavier camper.

Great to hear. Thank you! 
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