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Topic Closed12 volt power socket installed in 177

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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 12 volt power socket installed in 177
    Posted: 02 May 2014 at 11:08am
Cody,

Fortunately my Pod was completely and perfectly foamed from the factory. So tight I could hear the difference in the Fantastic fan with and without a window open. Therefore I never went in search of the foam. However, home improvement stores carry several types of expanding polyurethane foam in spray type containers. Black color is not necessary. For small fills like wire entry/exit I use GE clear Silicone II sealer. Easy, permanent, and removable. Available at Lowes, HD, Ace, etc.  
Charlie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2014 at 10:51am
Originally posted by CharlieM


And on the foaming job: more is better. The alternative is no foam, which FR has also done on Friday afternoon models. Makes for a really leaky cold Pod!

 
CharlieM,

What kind of foam do you use?  I can't seem to find that black expanding foam that FR uses?

Cody91
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2014 at 7:52am
Thanks for the reply. I hadn't seen the assembled connectors. The PowerWerx website talks to supplied roll pins used to join two single connectors, e.g. red and black, to form a single two circuit connector. Obviously the assembled one you show is preferable.
Charlie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2014 at 5:49am
No, if assembled correctly they will always maintain polarity correctness.   Each connector is marked as to which contact is positive on the two conductor ones.  I've never had a need to use the individual contact version since I've only used them on 12V DC systems where both + and - are needed.

Roll pins?   Lost me there.....haven't seen that on the ones I've used.





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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2014 at 10:21pm
Thanks Joe and Bud for the info. If I understand any color within the 15/30/45 series will mate with another color of the series. It looks like a 15A would also mate with 45A connector of any color. So given four separate wires, two red (+) and two black (-), it is physically possible to mate them in any combination, even shorting out the source if the wires are long enough? Now if the same for wires are assembled into plugs, using the roll pins, with one red and one black per pair and following the convention of  "red right, tongue top" is it still possible to cross-mate them and reverse polarity?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2014 at 9:02pm
Originally posted by CharlieM


Bud,

I've seen the Andersons advertised, but never seen one in person. How do they handle keying or polarity? Will two reds mate, two blacks mate, but not a red and a black? Or is it something else. Also have you ever seen a panel mount version? Any connector system to replace the cig plug will have to have a panel mount female and cable mount male.



The colors are simply to identify different "systems".  The colors have nothing to do with which ones mate with each other.  Standard is grey.  The same size of any color will mate, IOW no problem plugging a grey into a red if they are the same size.

Polarity is marked on them for DC systems. they really are someones great idea-  I like them a lot.
If wired correctly it is impossible to reverse polarity plugging them into each other.

The links in jjkd's post detail the physical design, although I admit I've never seen the single pole ones wikipedia shows, all I've used have been 2 pole.


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2014 at 8:51pm
Description of Anderson PowerPole connectors


For power distribution apps like this, you always put them together in pairs with red/positive on the right (red right tongue top), since pairs connect in opposite (upside down) orientation, the polarity is always correct.

Some panel mount options shown here:


But sometimes you can get them cheaper on ebay...

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Joe Kyle
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2014 at 2:43pm
This is the voltmeter I used: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UWD2J4/

It's just measures volts.

I picked up the rocker switch at Radio Shack and made the plastic panel out of some scrap I had sitting around. 



Hope that helps!

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2014 at 2:15pm
Originally posted by fwunder

 While you have the panel out, you'll notice the wiring running up to the stereo. Unscrew the four screws holding the stereo and you can easily install a voltmeter, dropping the wires down to the 12v. power bus and ground. The voltmeter is one of my favorite mods!


I've been looking at volt meters and haven't found one that I like till I saw this one, where did you get it and what brand is it.  What else does it show?

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2014 at 11:49am
Originally posted by bcskimiller

Thanks to everybody for the quick replies!  I think I'm taking all the parts I got at O'Rileys back and just ordering 4 of the Blue Sea Systems plugs.  May upgrade to the built in USB chargers once they get enough power to do the IPAD and these new fancy big screen phones; till then we'll stick with our cigarette lighter ones.
One last (for now...) novice question: for the wiring, especially since I will have to run some of it under the trailer, is it worth paying for the outdoor/underground low voltage 12 guage 2 wire such as this:
 
 
or will regular 12 guage 2 wire house stuff work?
 
Thanks Again!


In my last post to you I included 2 links, one for BlueSea and one for a USB adapter. The BlueSea sockets I used are just the cigarette plug connectors, no USB included. That gives you connectivity for all cigarette plug devices. The other link is to a USB adapter that plugs into the cigarette lighter socket and does provide 2 Amps for iPads etc. I'm a bit skeptical about the BlueSea built in USB sockets, if only for the replacement upon failure issues.

On the wire: The Coleman wire looks like it will be fine, but maybe longer than you'll need. I would use 12 Ga. wire available at auto stores plus the wire molds available from the same source, but you can do a cost comparison. The Coleman wire will work; don't use regular old house wire. For one thing, house wire is not rated for outside use. Secondly house wire is solid conductor, not stranded. Solid conductors are a lot harder to work with in cramped quarters like a trailer.
Charlie
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