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mtsapphire View Drop Down
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Joined: 08 Jun 2015
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Posts: 5 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Hot water woes
    Posted: 24 May 2016 at 7:40pm
Hi, I have some hot water issues with my RP177, both with LP and with AC:

A. LP: Even after heating water with LP gas for 25 minutes, the water is just warm, with cold spurts. I can see the gas burner firing away, so there's plenty of LP. Bypass valve is SHUT, other two valves are open; water tank is near full. Why is water temp so wimpy?Stern Smile

B. AC: No hot water at all. I suspect a burnt-out element. There is power to the element terminals, so maybe all I need to do is replace it, but in the process of diagnosing, I came across these issues and questions:
1. Where is the main 110V power switch? I know where the secondary switch is in the outside heater access, and the gas ignition rocker switch is on the wall by the door, but where is the main switch? To be safe, I flipped the 30A main breaker in the panel under the dinette bench.
2. There seems to be no give to the rubber-covered reset buttons in the outside access, so what's the deal there?
3. When I used my multimeter to check the resistance of the element, I did not get a reading of infinity, but it was higher than 14.5-17 ohms. But then, maybe I wasn't reading it right. I unhooked the white ground wire and measured the resistance between the two terminals.
4. A further suggested test was to "check the continuity of the neutral terminal to the neutral pin of the closest RV outlet" but I'm not sure how to do that. Can anyone explain in "RPod for Idiots" language?
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Podster View Drop Down
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Posts: 1108 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2016 at 10:45pm
A.  Bypass valve may appear closed but could be faulty???
B. Test element for continuity, if open, replace
B.1. There is only one switch for HWH shore power operation and it is located outside behind the HWH access panel. 
B.2. No give indicates reset is not an option. You have a high temp limiter and over current draw there. One set is for DC and the other is for AC. 
B.4. If the element is good, but no hot water, it seams to me that testing for voltage on the element feed lines would be more helpful over checking for continuity on one side. That said, crappy ground or common circuits are commonly responsible for all sorts of electrical failures. 

Good luck Sir! 
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Posts: 1447 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2016 at 8:23am
Originally posted by Podster


B.1. There is only one switch for HWH shore power operation and it is located outside behind the HWH access panel.


That's technically true I suppose but there is a dedicated breaker in the fuse/breaker box.  It should be labeled.  A lot of folks leave the switch on at the water heater and use the breaker inside as their switch.

It is very important that the electricity be off at at least one location whenever the water tank is empty.  If you forget and leave it on when you hook to shore power the heating element will burn out almost instantly.

TT
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2016 at 10:31am
Luke warm water is always a valve problem. The valve handle on the center bypass valve must be perpendicular to the pipe; the other two should be parallel to their pipes. I suppose it's possible the handles are improperly installed or the valve is faulty, but it's unlikely.

Remove the black plastic cover on the electric element and test for 120 volts AC. If the valves are set properly, 120 V is present, and no hot water, the element is bad.
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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mtsapphire View Drop Down
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Posts: 5 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2016 at 10:38am
Thank you, senior members/gurus. Your wisdom points me in the right direction!
Valves are as Charlie M. described them, but maybe the bypass valve is faulty or not fully closed.
Setting out to get a heating element and socket today.
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Podster View Drop Down
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Posts: 1108 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2016 at 4:21pm
Originally posted by Tars Tarkas

Originally posted by Podster


B.1. There is only one switch for HWH shore power operation and it is located outside behind the HWH access panel.


That's technically true I suppose but there is a dedicated breaker in the fuse/breaker box.  It should be labeled.  A lot of folks leave the switch on at the water heater and use the breaker inside as their switch.

It is very important that the electricity be off at at least one location whenever the water tank is empty.  If you forget and leave it on when you hook to shore power the heating element will burn out almost instantly.

TT

I doubt very much that the POD breakers are rated for switch duty "SWD" 
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9062 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2016 at 9:39pm
They aren't getting daily use so I wouldn't worry about a SWD rating.  If you do it once per trip that is maybe 6-8 times a year.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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