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WillThrill View Drop Down
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Joined: 04 Jul 2014
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Posts: 298 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Converter voltage
    Posted: 02 Aug 2016 at 11:05am
Originally posted by furpod

We have seen a couple malfunctioning converters over the years. Like any electronic product, they can go wonky. The good thing is it's about a 15 minute fix. I just did one for a friend last month, at a CG, no more then 15 minutes. Hers was dead due to a miswired (220) power connection at a temporary park at the Indy 500. 

That's why I always use a GFCI surge protector at the post outside.  Before I plug the Pod in, I test the GFCI.  It's not a guarantee that nothing is wrong, but it is definitely beneficial.
"Not all those who wander are lost." Tolkien

2014 Hood River 177
2005 GMC Envoy XL
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furpod View Drop Down
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Joined: 25 Jul 2011
Location: Central KY
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Posts: 6128 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2016 at 5:48pm
Originally posted by WillThrill

Originally posted by furpod

We have seen a couple malfunctioning converters over the years. Like any electronic product, they can go wonky. The good thing is it's about a 15 minute fix. I just did one for a friend last month, at a CG, no more then 15 minutes. Hers was dead due to a miswired (220) power connection at a temporary park at the Indy 500. 

That's why I always use a GFCI surge protector at the post outside.  Before I plug the Pod in, I test the GFCI.  It's not a guarantee that nothing is wrong, but it is definitely beneficial.


It's a long story, but she does too. A relative of hers decided, when the surge guard wouldn't allow power to the camper, that the surge guard "must be bad"... and removed it. POOF!!!
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Posts: 48 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2016 at 5:53pm
We bought our 180 at the end of Feb.  We are now on our third converter.  We use a surge protector every time.   The last time they replaced the whole unit.  Took it camping for three days after the repair, so far so good maybe "third time is the charm"

I am new to campers so I have no knowledge of converter history.  It seems to me from reading this forum that there have been a lot of failures in the later model Pods.  My dealer did not think this was normal.  Maybe the converter manufacture got some bad components.  If it is a trend I am sure Forest River will get it sorted out.
2016 R-Pod 180
2015 Ford Explorer Limited
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Leo B View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 Jan 2012
Location: Lyndonville, VT
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Posts: 4517 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2016 at 8:02pm
Wow, hopefully this latest one lasts!!
Leo & Melissa Bachand
2017 Ford F150
2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk
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2015 Rpod 179
2010 Rpod 171
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9062 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Aug 2016 at 9:07pm
Originally posted by JandL

From the owners manual
Troubleshooting 8900 Series Power Center
Before checking the converter output voltage, it is necessary to
disconnect the battery cables at the battery . Make sure
the converter is plugged into AC source (105-132 Volts). Check the
converter output voltage at the battery with a voltmeter. Place the
probes on the disconnected battery cables; place the Positive (red) meter
probe on the + positive red battery wire and place the Negative (black)
meter probe on the -Negative black wire on the battery cable. Be sure you
have good connections at the cables. If the voltage reads 13.6 Vdc (+/-.2)
with no load, the converter is functioning properly.

Interesting, that goes against everything I've ever learned and experienced about chargers.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Rustler View Drop Down
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Posts: 100 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2016 at 2:23am
This is an interesting discussion. I've been wanting to tell about my experience with a new 2016 Rpod 171. I recently installed a GT Power RC 130A Power Analyzer Battery Consumption Performance Monitor ($11.36 on Amazon), which I highly recommend. It is currently in line between an unused 12-volt circuit in the fuse box and a RigRunner 4004USB. The latter will be used for all my add-on 12-volt appliances. I really dislike the ubiquitous 12-volt cigarette lighter type connectors for 12 volt. So far I've cut off the cig. plugs of my appliances (Endless Breeze Fan, Duracell Pocket inverter 175) and reconnected the plug with a set of Anderson Powerpole connectors (Powerwerx.com). That way the appliances are still useable with cig. lighter plug, but can also be connected with the superior Powerpoles. 

With the RigRunner mounted on the shelf behind the dinette table I can power all my add-on DC appliances. Each circuit has its own easily accessible fuse. And the Rigrunner has two USB charging ports for charging iPhone and iPads. It will also be capable of handling the 22-amp load of my portable Ham radio base station. This current draw is only when transmitting on high power. Just listening the load is around 1/2 amp. I will soon be posting how I installed all of this (including photos), along with connecting a solar panel. 

So that is my electrical situation, which brings me to the subject of this thread - Converter voltage. The Battery Consumption Performance Monitor has 4 different read-outs in the corners of its display, showing DC volts, amps, watts and a 4th display that cycles through several different measurements (volts min., amp-hours, watt-hours, amps peak, watts peak). Of course the way I have it set up it only measures these quantities for loads connected to the RigRunner. But the voltage reading is measured right at the 12-volt DC bus in the fuse box.

When I installed all of this I discovered that on shore power the converter seems to float the battery at 13.89 volts. This ought to keep the battery fully charged, but is really too high for a flooded lead-acid battery, leading to excessive water consumption. It would be best to have it float at 13.2 volts. Strangely after several weeks of showing a high float voltage, just tonight it started showing 13.38 volts (with minimal load), which isn't too far off mark. 

On the converter website (WFCOelectronics.com) in the FAQ section they said after 44 hours with no load, the converter will switch to float voltage. My Rpod has a number of small continuous loads. Also there is daily 1-2 amp load with the vent fan, which I turn on to keep the inside temperatures from getting too high. So there is really never a 44 hour no-load situation.

I'm hopeful that the present somewhat lower (13.38) float voltage will continue. Even with the 13.89 volt float water consumption in 2-1/2 months wasn't as bad as I had feared. But I certainly will be checking the water levels frequently to avoid killing a battery. 

What have some of you forum members experienced with float voltage on your Rpods?
Russ
2009 Toyota RAV4
V6 w/ tow package
2016 Rpod 171 HRE
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JandL View Drop Down
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Posts: 364 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 2016 at 10:00am
I have a very accurate panel meter mounted (Resolution (V) 0.01 - Accuracy +/-0.01V) so I can monitor my battery voltage and most of the time it reads 13.20 volts. The only thing running is the propane detectors. Every once in awhile it reads 13.63 volts and the Progressive Ind. AC panel meter usually reads 0 amps. The Progressive Ind. amp meter can only read single digits and I don't know where the low current cut off is. I have had no issue with the water level in my battery. I am not sure the of the accuracy of your meter and that may be why it reads 13.89 volts for the float voltage
JandL
2013 Honda Ridgeline
2012 177
2 Paynes in a Pod
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