Where did you wire in the extra fans?

Things I have tried: thermoster is working, gas is lighting and burning well. Cycled the fridge twice on AC varying the temperature in the fridge.

What I can't assess due to the placement is the two circulating fans. I assume they are working.

This is a 2012 182 G model.  

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Ron

Thanks!

Checked door seal- good

Thermoster-good

Trailer is level

Propane tank is full

Cleaned the flue

Cleaned the burner assembly

Have a good flame.

I still cannot get the refer part to get cold when using propane. The freezer works though.

The whole unit works on AC and battery.

Any suggestion?

I've been having intermittent propane problems with my fridge over the last year. I would dissemble the burner, soak it in alcohol, blow it out and it would run fine for a while. Runs great on 120 or 12 volt. It has gotten much more frequent lately so I decided to work upstream. Last week, I had to clean it twice in a week and ended up running on 12 volt for trip home.

I removed the propane line from tank to regulator and from regulator to Pod. I noted quite a bit of oily gunk. Hmmm. I always suspected this might be the cause. I've now ordered a new regulator and will clean the lines as best I can with alcohol.

I'll report back when I install new regulator.

fred

Last week in Acadia National Park we maintained 5 degrees freezer and 35-37 degrees while on shore power or 12 volt and four lights on the controls. I did give the burner assembly and jet a good soaking w/denatured alcohol and removed and cleaned the regulator-to-pod hose. I reassembled everything, checked for leaks, purged the system and fired up the fridge today.

As I said, not claiming victory yet, but after three hours the freezer is already @ 11 degrees and fridge @ 43. That's a whole lot faster cool down than I had been getting, even after a cleanup. I'm using an https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QJVU78/ - Accurite Wireless Thermometer to monitor. 

I'm just gonna let it run a couple of days on propane and see if it might be fixed.

fred

fred

P.S. I want to add again, my propane fridge problems only arose over the last year. Three years prior - no problem.

Thanks to all. 

Yep, I printed this earlier and will use it to work on it. The regulator replacement will be next if cleaning doesn't work.

I'll second the door seal issue. I glued magnets along my door to hold it more firmly against the seal. The latch allowed a lot of movement (in my opinion) and especially during travel where items shift. I've noticed quite an improvement in cool-down time as well as overall colder foods. I put my sodas on the bottom and they're a lot colder when I drink them now, which I love. 

BTW, I started with one magnet-pair, but added two more since the door isn't perfectly flush with the frame and the extra magnets hold it more evenly across the seal. I also made sure and tighten the hinge screws as they had come slightly loose, allowing for more wiggle.

You should be able to see a picture from this Google Photos Album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/69XU3ZWHM3JZ9YaI3

Best I can determine is that SOMETHING ends up in the propane tank.  It SHOULD stay in the tank because all that should be coming out of the tank is vaporized propane.  However, if the tank is contaminated AND relatively full AND is in use while driving, some of that contamination can end up in the lines and regulator as the liquid sloshes around.  It can then foul the regulator and/or the refer burner orifice.  

An open question is... if the burner orifice did get fouled like mine did, can I expect it to recur since whatever contamination got into the lines is still there and migrating towards the burner?  Is it possible that this NEVER happened to our 15 year old pop-up camper because we never ran the fridge while driving (it owuld not stay lit)?  

Fortunately, it is fairly easy to clean the refer burner orifice and the regulator can be checked by observing the stove burner flame height.  

Mostly curious.....

Paul

I believe my regulator got fouled and the contamination moved to fridge burner. Once it became apparent, I was frequently cleaning the burner and each time the fridge would return to normal for a while. Then I would have to repeat the process. When I finally decided to replace the regulator, I did find oily goop in the regulator and line from tank to front of pod.

I'm really not sure when or where the contamination came from. Not even sure if any contamination is considered "normal". When I did replace the regulator I flushed the rubber hoses with denatured alcohol. For grins, I flushed the old regulator and noted some pretty cloudy looking stuff coming out. Perhaps I got an overfilled tank somewhere that allowed liquid propane into lines? Perhaps I just got a contaminated tank somewhere? Dunno. I do know that (as of this writing) my fridge seems to be working fine now after a couple of weeks.

I wouldn't be surprised if the problem recurs because I did not flush or replace all lines to fridge, but for now it's definitely better than it was. Just as a point of reference, I have been turning the fridge on (at home) every two or three days (mid 70's ambient) - four lights. Temperature drops quickly and within 4-5 hours freezer is 6-10 degrees and fridge 34-36.

fred

I figured that since most of the places we camp have shore power, a small 120VAC fan plugged into the outlet in the refer enclosure should help.  However, I tried several mounting methods for a Whisper Fan (120VAC low velocity / very quiet muffin fan) and discovered that unless I fabricated some sort of soft mount, the "growl" from the fan motor could easily be heard inside the trailer and was rather annoying.  YMMV.  

I wonder if simply directing the flue exhaust outside the enclosure (as opposed to just dumping it inside) would help, especially when running on gas?  

Paul

If anyone wants a picture of what I did, PM me and we can make arrangements to send one.