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Please help Newbie with Fuse Panel

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Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=11300
Printed Date: 28 Apr 2024 at 9:53pm
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Topic: Please help Newbie with Fuse Panel
Posted By: XDigger15
Subject: Please help Newbie with Fuse Panel
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 12:39pm
Hi all.  I am the first time owner of ANY KIND OF CAMPER, and it happens to be an adorable 2010 R POD 173.  I did not get any type of manual with it, and only a "hurried" run through of explanations on use.  Most of my learning, sadly then, has come from the internet and hard knocks.

My power system hasn't been acting right since my last trip camping, on March 5-7.  I left the camp ground with my Pod showing fully charged while plugged in, of course. But when I got home, my battery level showed just 3 dots. Within a few days my CO2 detector started going off, and this Grandma assumed that it probably just used 2AA batteries.

I went out and checked fuses first.  I found that the 7.5 Furnace Fuse and the 15v Fuse above it were Switched!  Neither was blown.  I also checked the two 40v fuses.

HERE IS THE BIG PROBLEM from what I can see now.  
The converter BREAKER  is not a strong click, like the others.  I think it is ruined.  What is the fix for that???


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XDigger
2010 RPod 173
2000 Chevy 1500 V8



Replies:
Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 1:24pm
Hey Xdigger15,

Thanks for posting this. Reading your message it sounds like the charger/converter was working when you left the campground?

So you need to check a few things (this assumes you have an AC/DC volt meter of some kind):

1. When you plug in at home, as long as you're just charging the battery, you can use any ordinary 15/20 amp outlet with the appropriate plug adapter. Just make sure the outlet is "alive" (should be in the neighborhood of 110 to 120 VAC (a little over or under that range is probably OK). For example, I just checked one of our outlets, and it's showing 122 VAC, which I consider OK.
2. If the outlet is alive, then you should verify that the 115VAC is getting to the converter. There are test points that you can access on the converter access panel.
3. If the converter is getting 115VAC, then you should check for 12VDC on the output of the converter. Actually, if the converter is functioning, it should be in the 13-14 volt range.
4. If the converter is producing the aforementioned 13 (or so) volts, verify that it is getting to the battery(ies).


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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: mjlrpod
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 1:39pm
For the sake of clarity, you're saying that the D/C power was working, but eventually the battery died? I assume the a/c power wasn't working at that time as well? See the pod has two different power systems. One is the battery, and only d/c powered items will work on battery. the a/c side is anything you need to plug into an outlet to use. It sounds like your a/c power stopped working and no longer charged the battery. If you can charge the battery and the d/c stuff works, you'll atleast be one step closer. Hopefully you have an EMS system, and it wasnt killed by voltage spikes. If you don't have one, it sounds bad. Even WITH EMS the converter can die, but it's more likely if you dont have one.

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2017.5 Rp-172
2020 R-pod 195
2015 Frontier sv 4.0L 6cyl
I'll be rpodding


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 2:40pm
Xdigger15,

As discussed, do you have basic electrical knowledge and a multimeter? If not you need to get some help. Verify you have a good AC source to trailer, verify your battery is less than 12volts, make sure your Converter CB is on and the 40A fuses are good. Is the converter fan running? If you don't have those things, chances are the converter is bad and needs to be replaced. It's not charging the battery. They go bad. They are not difficult to replace. At this point you need to determine what is not happening. We can discuss options after we figure out why the battery is not charging.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: XDigger15
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 3:17pm
HAHA, guys. Thank you so much, for the wonderful replies, and I'm sorry I was away for a little bit.  Company.
As I mentioned before, I am a Grandma, whose mind is a little clouded these days.  So, NO, I wouldn't say that I have a lot of electrical know how.  (I've worked in woodworking, and a little bit of small engine repair over the years, but electricity is something that I have always stayed clear of.) 
 
I did hook the battery up to a trickle charger, though, and it appeared to go from 0 dots on the panel, to 3 dots on the panel.
 
Also, when I pulled out the 15A fuse, that was in the 7.5A Furnace spot, the red light next to it came on...  Does that clarify anything?

Right now, nothing in the camper works... Plugged up to house or on Battery.  Nothing.

What is EMS?




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XDigger
2010 RPod 173
2000 Chevy 1500 V8


Posted By: XDigger15
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 3:25pm
Originally posted by mcarter

Xdigger15,

As discussed, do you have basic electrical knowledge and a multimeter? If not you need to get some help. Verify you have a good AC source to trailer, verify your battery is less than 12volts, make sure your Converter CB is on and the 40A fuses are good. Is the converter fan running? If you don't have those things, chances are the converter is bad and needs to be replaced. It's not charging the battery. They go bad. They are not difficult to replace. At this point you need to determine what is not happening. We can discuss options after we figure out why the battery is not charging.

Thank you. I do not have a multimeter.
I guess I will try to get more help, but this really frustrates me.  I just bought the camper from a dealer in February.  CryCryCry


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XDigger
2010 RPod 173
2000 Chevy 1500 V8


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 3:37pm
Pulling the fuse lit the fault light. We can discuss an EMS after we fixed your current problem. You need to get a Multimeter and also probably ask a friend for some assistance until you familiarize yourself with basic electrical issues. The battery charger should be charging battery which means the converter is not. We just need to figure out why. Campers require you get handy or have a handy friend to assist. No biggee. We'll get thru this.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: XDigger15
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 3:53pm
Hi GlueGuy. Thanks for trying to help me.
1. How would I be sure I am "Just charging the Battery"?
2. How would I test on the panel, to be sure that the power is getting to        the Converter?
3.  How would I check the input and output of the Converter; and whether the power is getting back to the battery?

I guess I really just need to get help. ConfusedOuch


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XDigger
2010 RPod 173
2000 Chevy 1500 V8


Posted By: XDigger15
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 4:15pm
I have a local Auto Zone that might be able to help me.   I also have a friend who will be my daughter's Father-in-Law at some point.  He is a Master Mechanic, and I can ask him, too.  I'll be back in touch after I have someone help me get the basics.  Thanks.

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XDigger
2010 RPod 173
2000 Chevy 1500 V8


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 4:22pm
Let's do that, get the Master Mechanic involved and get back with us. Not sure Auto Zone will be much help. you just need someone with basic electrical experience to figure out the goes into and out of:)

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: XDigger15
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 4:25pm
Will do!



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XDigger
2010 RPod 173
2000 Chevy 1500 V8


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 4:55pm
Originally posted by XDigger15

Hi GlueGuy. Thanks for trying to help me.
1. How would I be sure I am "Just charging the Battery"?
2. How would I test on the panel, to be sure that the power is getting to        the Converter?
3.  How would I check the input and output of the Converter; and whether the power is getting back to the battery?

I guess I really just need to get help. ConfusedOuch
You know XDigger, without a multi-meter or the knowledge of how to use it we may just be spitting in the wind a little bit. Do find your master mechanic friend, and borrow his multi-meter, or run down to Home Depot (or your friendly neighborhood hardware store) and buy an inexpensive multi-meter. A basic one https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-4-Func-14-Range-Manual-Digital-Multimeter-GDT-3190/202867883 - like this is less than $20, and will get you off the ground. Increase your budget to about $30, and you can get a little bit nicer one with auto-ranging.

Then go through the procedure step-by-step. It's all relatively simple with a few basic pointers, but would be difficult for us to explain to you over the net.

In the mean time, we are all rooting for you. Good luck.


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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: XDigger15
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 6:43pm
I'll be gettin to it, fellow podders.  Thank you for the encouragement!

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XDigger
2010 RPod 173
2000 Chevy 1500 V8


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 9:24pm
Here is link to WFCO Troubleshooting guides, determine what type you have then follow the chart very easy.

http://wfcoelectronics.com/trouble-shooting-charts/

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 7:12am
Originally posted by XDigger15

HERE IS THE BIG PROBLEM from what I can see now.  
The converter BREAKER  is not a strong click, like the others.  I think it is ruined.  What is the fix for that???


I apologize for not reading the whole thread, but this issue.. Did you move the breaker reset all the way to the LEFT before clicking it back to the RIGHT? It has to be "reset" by moving it physically to the left. If you try to flip it back on without doing that, it won't. If the breaker IS bad, the "fix" is to go buy a compatible breaker, and replace it. 2 screws/wires. Turn off the shore power first.


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Posted By: XDigger15
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 8:37am

Good Morning, furpod!  Thanks for chiming in!  
I did move the circuit breaker all the way to the left, and then back to the right, and it is definitely not working.
I've never replaced one before, but the Panel box is easily accessible, and I am pretty good with tools.  Maybe I'll give replacing it a try.
From all that I've read on the web (lots), it sounds like lots of Pod Owners have had problems with the "converters/inverters" going bad.  I don't want to go to the trouble just to have it go bad the next time I go camping, though.  Confused  Have you had any trouble with yours?
I also wonder why the Furnace Fuse (7.5A) was in the wrong place, and if that had anything to do with it.  Cry  All of this happened the first weekend of March, which was also the first weekend I ever used my Furnace.
**I have only had the POD since Feb 5...  Ouch



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XDigger
2010 RPod 173
2000 Chevy 1500 V8


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 9:13am
I very much doubt that the fuse (12V circuit) had anything to do with the breaker going bad. I did have a converter go bad on me. I ordered a replacement on Amazon and installed it myself. After we got home, I got an RGA number and sent the bad one in and it was replaced under warranty. Now I have a spare just in case it happens again.

My understanding is that the converters are generally reliable, but that WFCO got a bad batch from the manufacturing plant. These are the ones having problems. If, after you fix the breaker problem, the converter tests bad and your converter is still under warranty, contact WFCO and get it replaced. See the http://wfcoelectronics.com/warranty-returns/ - WFCO Warranty Returns web page for details.


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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: XDigger15
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 10:19am
Thank you, StephenH.
I have an appointment to take the R Pod back to the dealer I bought it from next week.  Confused  I have had a few issues, and this issue has just really blown my mind. I was wrong about the Fuses being put in incorrectly.  I went back and checked, and they had been right, so I moved them back.
The dealer I bought it from is not an R Pod dealer.  Should they be responsible for knowing about, testing all the components sufficiently, and being sure that I knew what I was doing, BEFORE I left the dealership??  
It may have been the use of the furnace that caused the problem.  I have no idea. I'm just afraid to start replacing things, or spending more money on things that I feel may be the responsibility of the dealership. I had only had the camper 1 month when all of this started. Ouch


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XDigger
2010 RPod 173
2000 Chevy 1500 V8


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 11:00am
It's not clear (at least to me) that this was defective out of the chute. It sounds like it was working initially, and then something went wrong. What we don't know is whether power is getting to your converter, or whether you have a bad circuit breaker, or if something went wrong with the converter itself.

Even though the dealer is not an Rpod dealer, I would expect them to be able to figure this out. It's not rocket science, and pretty much all travel trailers have a converter. The main difference is the size. The Rpod is simpler than most.


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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 11:19am
I doubt it was the furnace use that caused the problem. If it was working when you bought it, the breaker could have gone bad. That is not something that can be predicted. Now, is there possibly a short that instantly trips the breaker when you attempt to reset it? Try resetting it with shore power unplugged. If it resets, then look for a loose wire that is shorting and tripping the breaker immediately. If it still has the soft feel, then it is most likely the breaker has gone bad. I am not an electrician, so I can't help you further. 

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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 11:33am
I doubt furnace too. We, here, are at the point you need a multimeter to do checks, that would make this easy. The dealer should or will have that knowledge and equipment.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: XDigger15
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 8:29am
Thanks again, guys.  
Breaker still feels softer, whether plugged in to HOUSE power or not.
Would it make a difference, you think, if I went to a local campground and plugged it into 30amp SHORE POWER?
No, I still haven't tried a multimeter.  I will see if a neighbor has one, I can borrow, until I get one. 
StephenH, How do I check for a lose wire? 

Sorry for all the really "remedial" questions.


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XDigger
2010 RPod 173
2000 Chevy 1500 V8


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2018 at 8:36am
How to check for a loose wire? Remove the cover and look. Feel the wires and see if they are tight in their connections (disconnected from shore power!) I had one wire break in the connection but it looked like it was still attached until I touched it and it moved.

It still seems to me that you have a bad breaker.


-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: XDigger15
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 7:27am
Thank you, StephenH.  I thought that was probably right, but it never hurts to hear it straight from someone who has done it. Smile

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XDigger
2010 RPod 173
2000 Chevy 1500 V8



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