http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRW1ZHK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRW1ZHK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With any luck it goes in this weekend. I choose this one over the shunt style mainly because of my experience with shunt style on my garage solar. The shunt has been the one item I have to replace a couple times now and it 'needs' to be spliced in. Never did like that. Even though there is still a direct connect, cutting the wire always bothered me. This one I think is a ferrite disk. 

I'll let you know how accurate I find it. Cumulative amperage usage is the biggest thing I want on the DC side of things. 

I'm going to test it on my solar setup so I can compare readings against what I already have in place.

If it's Iron core it should do DC. Question really is if it's true RMS (which I doubt for the dollar). Really doubt it's Hall.. Way to little money for that.

Now if it's ferrite core.. measurements should be pretty close even if non-RMS and adjusted.

All will be seen over the weekend and answered. No reason for any of you to spend the dollar till I know it works and how well.

Ended up hooking in the 'shunt' unit. This is test location, final resting spot should be inside Lily.

Ghost draw.

Please look at the wiring. I believe the smaller cable from the unit should be on the other side of the shunt. You folks are saying that's the charge line from the solar. I noticed it after I hooked it up. I have not yet hooked up 'shore power' in case I'm correct on this.

If I don't hear back (before I head out there), My plan is to swap it over to the battery terminal before I hook into 'shore power'.

It's going back. 

It's sitting in a test spot to see if it works. Final home will be inside Lily.

Top left is battery voltage as it sits.

Top right is amperage draw 'real time'.

Lower left is Wattage 'real time'.

Lower right is cumulative. Want to know what you sed in day/weekend/week?

Mounted on the battery to the right is the 'shunt' I refer to.

4 wires to the unit. 2 for battery voltage, 2 for amperage/wattage that run through the 'shunt'.

228ma average (240ma if you wish to use the 12v baseline, I used standing voltage at 12.7)

Okay, Let's simplify this.

I bought a unit that I thought stated it could read DC current through a coil unit. Hopes were that technology had come along and it could. It can not.. We're not there yet (or at least marketing has not).

Confusion came in as others stated it can't happen, yet I was willing to give it a go, at my expense and see where it lands. I do know that there are ways, just not this unit or for anyone to buy.

Now, the unit that does work involves what is called a 'shunt'.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shunt_%28electrical%29 - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shunt_(electrical)

Basically, well a fuse of types, that allows current to pass through. by connecting to, with a meter allows you to read current/amperage/wattage running through. I say fuse of sorts cause it will blow is over amperage, just like a fuse.

One end of the Shunt connects to the negative terminal of the battery. The other end is where you connect you supply cable. Sounds like a fuse now, doesn't it.. The meter has two connections, before and after the shunt. Small wires because not much is passing through it but, and important, it passes through it. This gives it a 'real' reading. 

When you look at the picture and see that black thing with two silver ends, that's the Shunt (or fuse of sorts). The nuts are the connections in and out on both ends. The two little screws you see are where the meter hooks in. 

The meter also has two more wires that connect to the positive and negative terminals to give real time voltage. So 4 wires in all and a shunt.

It's not a scary thing to do and if you need, well worth the few minutes to hook up.

Ask away if you have more questions or I did not explain well enough. Always willing to assist s fellow Rpod'er.

I have 375 watts used. At voltage shown, 7.62 amps per hour/ 94 watts per hour. Or 30amps used.

The onboard station says full charge (after 1/2hr rest), but I know it's not. 

Ya, it's important to know and why I'm going through all this. I do wish to have power while boon docking and 'know' what I have left.

Ya, I'm weird like this.. LOL

Now, this meter (not being one of the $250 Big Boys) will not read in reverse. So I will not get a read of shore/solar input. I know, wish it did, but nay.. I could setup a second on the Solar side (which I may) to measure input (reason I was attempting to confirm what the smaller gauge wire from the unit was). The shore power side of things I really don't care about. I spend 3 days a week (which I will be while on Tour) I will charge back to full. It's the 4 other days I need to watch (or if we decide to stay 'wild' and away from the RV Park). And actually it's those runs of low Sun input (which is typical in the Nor'east) that concerns me the most. Again reason for a second meter on the solar side of things.

I have the shunt and the Solar cable hooked to the negative terminal. The Solar cable does not run through the shunt. I would have to mount that cable on the other end.

The reason for not going that way was that the shunt is not directional, but the meter is. With a 50/50 chance of wiring to the shunt correctly, I had it backwards the first time it it did not read. Switching the wires brought the meter online. Reason I believe I would need a second unit to read Solar input.

First is the corner of the 182g. With the upper bunk removed (partially) it opens up storage area. That corner has always been in my mind as a good spot.

Then comes the balance of the area. Just what will fit comfortably.

and another option

The wife likes and now wants one up front.. That means finding roof support to attach brackets. This I could use some advise on. I have a 'stud finder' that will detect wires, but scared as heck to still hit a wire..

Thoughts on supporting?? Finding a safe place to put a screw?? I'm sure there's a diagram out there somewhere that shows where Forest River ran those wires..

Ya'll have a good supplier of cargo netting you wish to share? I'm looking!!!

Full Dinette Mode:

Partial Dinette or Office Mode:

Night Stand Mode (or hopefully traveling Mode):

Boondocking entertainment Mode:

Hey, I get it, not for all, but for us.. It works! And it goes outside!

Never did like that table it comes with and knew something was going to happen.

Shelf above is a work-in-progress..

Pulled one of my 130w's off the roof and set it up. Thank you to all on the previous post of saving me so much time of working through this (you folks are great).

Went very well!

Mounted my controller on the back of it. Do need to build a stand I'll be happy with. Thinking of plywood and piano hinges.. Another work-in-progress..

Also looking at adding a current meter like on my batteries so I can read input. Since none of these are 'weather-proof' I'll have to do something like I did on my Soaker Tub pump.

That has worked very well for several years.. 

Great Day today! Tunes playing. Fan running. Improvements accomplished. And battery got a charge!

Lily is becoming!!!

It is one of the best ever covers of Cortez the Killer (Neil Young) I have heard. We can debate.. but one of..

Yours to enjoy (or not)..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paeNnR33i5Q

Only two on the garage. Had 4 cheap 100's on the barn.

I have that one a well! And yes, I am an old Rusty as well.