One question, why all three tanks maxed out? Typically that shouldn't happen, outbound your fresh tank will have water in it, inbound it will be your waste tanks. BTW, if you have all your tanks filled that is not the worst case for your tongue load because all the tanks are not in front of the trailer axle.  Load behind the trailer axle reduces tongue weight. 

I'm sure this will cause an debate but it is a misunderstanding to think that unibody is inherently less structurally capable than body on frame. In fact for an SUV, quite the opposite is true. Unibody design uses the SUV C and D pillars and roof to create a very strong and rigid truss structure, using less steel. Saying a unibody SUV isn't as strong as body on frame is like saying a truss bridge isn't as strong as one using simple beams. It all depends on what each was designed to do. 

The same is not true for a pickup configuration. The only unibody pickup out there is the Honda Ridgeline, an interesting vehicle for sure but without the C and D pillars a lot of the structural benefits of unibody are lost. So there isn't a compelling reason for a manufacturer to change to unibody if it already manufactures body on frame pickups.  Honda did that mostly because they don't have any body on frame production lines. Eventually I would predict that body on frame SUV's will disappear and  body on frame pickups will be a mix based on what's easier for each manufacturer to produce on a given assembly line. 

It isn't as much about starting tension, it's also about it's ability to flex when the TV and TT move independently of each other. If the bars are to stiff to be flexed by the load, the frames are what flexes.

I also, second the question, of, "why are you towing with all 3 tanks full"? Besides just the weight and balance issues, it's generally agreed upon across the RV world not to do it because 30 gallons of poop weighs a lot, and once you put that in motion, and it starts bouncing around, it effectively weighs a lot more, and the tanks can, and have, come loose.. Poop happens.. but no one wants that poop to happen..

Ultimately I want to change to a different whd, I have a Reese Pro Series and don't really like it for a couple of reasons, one being lack of flexibility on where the mounting brackets have to be, another being the somewhat clunky nature of the antisway system (IMO).  When I do change I'll likely be getting an 800 lb rated system. 

I would also say that a unibody is a nice strong frame design with a lot of advantages in terms of weight and quietness. However, there are serious issues with "point loads" that a trailer hitch imposes. In order to handle heavier tongue weights, there needs to be gussets or some other thing to spread the load at the attachment point.

As I said will be changing to an 800 lb rated wdh when I get to the point of knowing what clearances I need for mounting other planned gear to my A frame. I already know that my Reese Pro won't clear. You definitely want a wdh rated higher than your actual tongue weight plus the weight of any load behind the rear axle, so 600 lbs will be a bit too light for me. Its going to be fine for folks with lighter rPods or rPods which are loaded lightly.

So, have been rearing and researching and "think" I want the Equal-i-zer 600lb model. Being able to back up and having the sway control built in were my priorities. I found a 1200lb one locally for $250 which is a decent price but was worried about overkill. You guys are correct(I emailed EQ), it would make for a harsh-er ride and I do not want that so I passed on the 1200. FYI, the bars and hub have to be changed out on the Equal-i-zer which makes it cost prohibitive. 

Anyway, for local trips no WDH is needed, so I have a few months to track down a 600lb. 

Moral of the story is to know your load and tongue weight at both extreme conditions. You can do that mathematically once you'd got actual trailer and tongue weights under a known set of load conditions. Its called a weight and balance calc. Any pilots out there will know what I'm talking about. 

I used to have an Equal-i-zer 600/6000 lb hitch. My daughter has it now. I am using a Hensley Cub which is way overkill for the RPod. If I were to do things over again, I would certainly look at the Andersen No-Sway.

There is another alternative you have not mentioned. That is the Hayes Sway Master electronic sway control  (  http://www.hayesbc.com/products-categories/ - http://www.hayesbc.com/products-categories/ ). An alternative is Tuson Sway Control (  https://tusonrvbrakes.com/collections/tuson-sway-control - https://tusonrvbrakes.com/collections/tuson-sway-control ). Since your vehicle does not necessarily need the WD given the capacity of it being over twice the weight of the RPod, perhaps this would be simpler and would be better for your situation. It is much more expensive than a simple sway bar, but it has the advantages of being able to act when needed automatically and it does not need to be disconnected for backing.

I purchased and installed the Hayes Sway Master before I got the Hensley Cub. I might not need it now, but since I have it, it is one more layer of assistance to help prevent an accident like the one i had where I hit ice with a strong cross wind.

Hayes Sway Master electronic sway control  (  http://www.hayesbc.com/products-categories/ - http://www.hayesbc.com/products-categories/ ). An alternative is Tuson Sway Control (  https://tusonrvbrakes.com/collections/tuson-sway-control - https://tusonrvbrakes.com/collections/tuson-sway-control ). 

I purchased and installed the Hayes Sway Master before I got the Hensley Cub. I might not need it now, but since I have it, it is one more layer of assistance to help prevent an accident like the one i had where I hit ice with a strong cross wind.

I read your post on the Hayes review. I had never heard of electronic sway control before and the idea is fascinating. I have not dug deep into how it actually works yet and I am assuming that it only applies the brakes when the trailer is directly behind the TV and not at the apex of the swing on each side? While the Tuscon must be applying one brake(inboard side) at the apex of the swing? 

Anyway, the Hayes can be had for $250-ish and that is generally the price of a good used EQ hitch, so I think I will order one before taking off on our 'big' trip where we will be out three weeks and cover 5-6 thousand miles. Thanks for the info!

I have heard of the system, have not researched it, but I understood it worked off an accelerometer, and not GPS.

Agreed. I had to be creative in figuring out where to mount the unit since I have the Stromberg-Carlson Trailer Tray on the A frame which blocks much of the view of the sky. I ended up mounting the unit on the trailer tray so it would have an unobstructed view of the sky.

I expect that in any situation where an auto's GPS navigation has enough of a signal to work, the Hayes would also have enough of a signal to work. It does not necessarily need to see as many satellites as the navigation GPS to have an accurate enough signal to function.

The Hayes system appears to be a relatively crude version of the same concept, crude because its using GPS rather than directly measuring wheel speed, and because its not controlling each wheel separately. That's not to say that the system can't provide benefits, I'd just proceed cautiously and would want to know more about how it operates. The devil is in the details.

Yes. Mine was one of the ones recalled because it was not compatible with the built-in trailer brake controller in some vehicles. The upgrade was to fix that. The upgraded unit no longer specifies that it is incompatible with built-in brake controllers.

The Tuson controller can apply each side independently instead of together so it is more sophisticated. However, I had purchased the Hayes before I ever heard of the Tuson unit. The Hayes is a simple install. The Tuson specifies that it should be installed by a technician, not the end user.

I know it's over a year old, and I am running a Tekonsha Prodigy P2...was that in the recall?

My Reese Pro hitch (rated at 1200 lbs) is stated to have a spring bar rating before bending of 1200 lbs each or 2400 lbs for the two bars. I interpret that to be the max tension the bars can take before bending. Similarly I would assume that 600 lb bars would max out at 1200 lbs total tension. Or an 800 lb system would be 1600 lbs max on the bars.  Not sure if similar limits would apply to other wdh systems or not. 

After lots of back and forth with e2 support and my sending them pictures, they determined that the hitch head was defective... either welded together wrong or holes drilled wrong.  

In any case they are sending me a new hitch head and a pickup slip for the one I have now so they can inspect it.  Hope I am able to get the new one working right.  They reiterated this is the correct hitch for my setup.