I told you I had lots of questions.

We picked up our R-Pod 180 last Wednesday.  I thought the WDH seemed to be very robust but having no experience with them I "ASSUMED" the dealer was selling me the correct size.

I spent a large portion of the weekend getting to know the R-Pod, and buying needed starter items and installing the rear stabilizers.

Today we hooked it up and drove in on the interstate a bit and went to a new Bucees that just opened up down the road. (first in our area OMG it the size of Walmart)  Anyway I was looking for some level ground to take measurements

How much is the upward tilt? When the trailer is disconnected, the top of the ball to the ground on the truck should be roughly equal to the top of the hitch to the ground. IOW, the trailer tongue and the ball on the hitch should be about the same height (disregarding the number of washers for now).

The number of washers will determine how much weight you're going to transfer. More washer = more weight. Fewer washers = less weight. I'm guessing you should only need a couple of washers, if that.

We have 2 (thick) washers on our E2 600/6000 hitch, and the transfer is pretty good.

The height of the ball is what sets the trailer tilt, that height setting and be adjusted independently from the hitch load rating. You do want the trailer level when the wdh is connected and tensioned so that you don't have to disconnect in order to have a level trailer overnight while travelling.

The front fender height is set by the spring bar tension. You should be able to adjust that tension to get the front fender height back to what it was when the TV was unloaded. By doing that you are assuring that the weight on the front axle is back where it should be for safe towing. Don't worry about the rear fender height, your objective is not to get the TV completely level and your rear axle will end up with more weight on it than without the trailer. 

What is affected by the rating of the wdh is the stiffness of the spring bars. If they're too stiff that will show up as a bouncy ride quality. That bounciness will be reduced the more load you have on your trailer tongue and in the rear of your tow vehicle. 

So before you readjust anything I suggest that you get your TV and trailer loaded up the way you will actually be using it so your maximum tongue weight is what it really will be. Otherwise you'll wind up doing the adjustment multiple times. 

I would for example drain the gray tank. That tank is behind the trailer axle so filling it reduces the tongue weight. If you plan on carrying full fresh water then fill the fresh tank up.  If you plan on any of the dual battery/propane cylinder mods then install those. Ditto with a better mattress if you're planning that. Load and fuel up your TV as you plan to travel as well. 

Then go through the wdh setup and adjustment process again, getting the trailer level and the front fenders back to their unloaded starting point. After that's all set, take the rig out on the road and see what you think of the ride. If it still feels too bouncy to you, then drop down one level on your whd spring bar rating. 

Good luck and enjoy!

You can, and do, if needed, buy a longer/more drop, extension. My sister is towing her Pod with a F250, she needed 9 1/2 inches of drop to get her Pod level when hooked up.

Your numbers also, still don't make sense.. Take the rear..

you say that with the trailer hooked up, your measurement was 37.5, then when you tensioned the WDH the rear LOWERED to 37.25.. They can't and don't work that way.. when you apply tension to the bars, they RAISE the rear of the truck, and lower the front of the truck.

Your front is the same, you show that the front of the truck went down when you put the hitch on, and UP when tension was applied...

So if you measure the height of the front and rear with the trailer connected and no WDH you will get front height X and rear height Y.

Tension the WDH bars; X should get smaller, and Y should get larger.

The bar rating has nothing to do with how a WDH works. I know several podders rolling with 1000, even 1200 pound bars. The difference is just how much it takes to deflect the bars, not what they do.

The main take-away is that adding air bags actually increases the load on the rear axle and decreases the load on the front axle.

It seems like your're not seeing that effect, but that might be because you don't have enough tension on your bars to see it. And small differences in height are hard to measure.

 In the end furpod is probably right and you won't really need a wdh, but if you are taking more measurements anyway I'd suggest two things:  

If you're not already, use painters take on the fenders to take your axle measurements to. 

Try putting more tension on your wdh bars. In order to see much effect from them the tension needs to be in the hundreds of lbs range. 

GlueGuy, or anyone with the E2 600/6000 system .Especially if you have a Ford F150  could you possible send or include some photos of your set up , including the washers and thickness,  and how many holes top/bottom for the "L "bracket.  

I picked it up today and like the design better but it is still not quite right.   I took it up to Bucee's again for some flat ground and a BBQ sandwich.

The measurements are pretty good but needs improvement.   As they set it up I am over sprung as I understand it.

My Unlaiden (truck only) front wheel measurement was  : 36.625

My Trailer only measurement was :                                     36.875

My Trailer with WDH Bars attached :                                   36.3125

So my target height as I understand it is: between :  36.625 and 36.75

My rear wheel is:

My Level trailer tongue height  is:         17.5

My trailer tongue height with WDH is     18.5

so I have a one inch upward tilt.

I have one hole left at the bottom of the hitch so if I drop it that should take care of the upward tilt.

And if I remove some washers. It has 6 now down to maybe 4 that should bring my front end up hopefully approx. 0.4 inch..

Is this right?

GlueGuy?

Anyone?

Likewise, the L brackets on the trailer are also all the way down. I guess that's the "top" holes, as the hang down. 

We have two really thick washers on the hitch head. 

I'll get you some pictures in the morning.

I plan on lowering  both the hitch and the L bracket to  the lowest position to lower the hitch height . Now debating on how many washers to use.  I understand that less transfer less weight to the front and as I am over-sprung  by about 0.4 inch with a full fresh water container.  By lowering the tongue I will be increasing the tongue weight so it may need slightly more adjustment. 

It is currently has 6 washers.  GlueGuy has 2,  Others 3 - 4.   I will try somewhere in that range.

Thanks for the help.

I got a spare tire holder to put on the tongue of our 172 from Amazon.  It was a bolt on type that attached to one frame rail or the other.  I had no problem putting it on, but when I had to do a little sharp backing it got in the way.  I'd like to get a mounting system that would attach to both rails and hole the tire horizontally above the LP tank and batteries.  

Any ideas on where to look for one?

The F-150 is way more than up to the task, and you could probably put as much or as little as the WDH could be set to. I think that you need to get "enough" tension to take advantage of the anti-sway capability of the E2 hitch.

Everything was set up as a generic install, Not at all my truck and trailer specific which is what I thought I was paying for.  The hitch was one notch or an inch to high.  The hardware that mounts the L bracket was not properly mounted to the frame as I could put a finger between the frame and the bottom bolt so the L bracket was shifting as it could not be tighten down enough to hold it stable like that.

I understand why they did it.  My Propane tank line was run under the right side to the external propane connection on the right side.  It was a easy fix. I had to remove x1 3/8 self tapping screw and relocate the line.   Just dealer being LAZY!

The brackets were also not the correct distance  from the hitch.  Also some washers lock washers were missing and a mixture of No-stop and nuts with lock washers were used.

So  I dropped the hitch height by one notch or about one inch.   I removed some washers. I ended up at 3. and my L bracket with 2 holes open below the frame.  I felt this gave me a good balance between sway control, while decreasing the up down bounce from the hitch being too high .  My front end height is currently 1/10 inch over sprung.  I can live with that.  I may experiment some more later but for now the ride is good and the sway seems to have been mostly eliminated and it tracks well. 

Thanks again for everyone input and help.  

Thanks you were a big help..  

I did find it curious that  with 2 washers and the L bracket in the position you use  vs 3 washers and the L bracket with 2 holes left under the frame (one hole lower than yours)  gave me the exact same front wheel height but I felt with 3 washers I was getting a bit more sway control.

Probable all in my head but then again maybe not?

There may be a minor concern about how much is transferred to the trailer axle (the RP-179 axle is just adequate for a fully loaded RP-179). So it's theoretically possible to overload the R-pod axle, but you would still have to work on it a bit.

Also, our 2015 F-150 is a complete re-design of the truck (from prior years), and I think there is enough difference between the 2014 and the 2015 to make some minor rigging changes. 

Tearless Tom, Fastway has their installation and set up instructions online http://here:%20www.fastwaytrailer.com/pdf/e2-round-bar-hitch-instructions.pdf - here: https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/pdf/e2-round-bar-hitch-instructions.pdf

You should have been given a copy by your dealer.  

When the dealer set up our hitch, among other errors, they set the L brackets too far aft so that I had <3" of distance from the middle of the bracket to the end of the bar.  I moved it forward to have about the same distance as you ended up with.  The propane tank mount is a problem for getting the L brackets in the right place, but you should be able to get it close enough.  The other thing the dealer failed to do was to torque any of the bolts to the proper tightness.  Thankfully nothing happened before I caught it.

Our F-150 is the 2015 "all aluminum" one, plus 4WD, plus the extended 157" wheelbase; all of which make it taller.

None-the-less, the basic rules for setting up the WDH still hold.

My suggestion is to measure as GlueGuy says and then get the LRD one with the highest load rating that you have clearance for  Since you're getting new wheels too be sure to check the load rating on those, you're only as good as your weakest link. I got these, both tires and wheels rated for 2540 lbs. It also saves the mounting cost.