Axle reinforcement
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Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
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Printed Date: 27 Apr 2024 at 3:31am
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Topic: Axle reinforcement
Posted By: offgrid
Subject: Axle reinforcement
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 11:49am
This post is a follow on to this topic, which contains a detailed discussion of the issues and load calculations.GVWR>GAWR and Stabilizer IssuesfeIt applies to the 3500 lb Lippert "diamond" configuration axle only, and will only address stiffening the axle tube itself, and not any failure that might or might not occur in the spindles, torque arms, or rubber components. I had a 77.25 inch long piece of 3x3x3/16 steel angle cut and cambered (crowned) about 3/8 inch in the center. You need to be specific that the crown is made at a 45 degree angle to the angle flanges, pressing on the point or "heel" of the angle. Be sure to measure your axle tube length and allow at least a 0.125 clearance at each end so the torque arm won't rub on the angle ends. The shop I went to specializes in trailer modifications but any shop with the appropriate size hydraulic angle cutter and press should be able to do it. It's not expensive, the fabbed piece cost me $30. I ordered four 1/2 inch square U bolts, shackles, washers, and nuts from these very nice folks: http://uboltsdirect.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiA45njBRBwEiwASnZT52uBCoLFSJUP9Uaul0QDmNsoA0X4yskHD0XbkhTrn907F9R-6Hy9pxoCrQgQAvD_BwE - http://uboltsdirect.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiA45njBRBwEiwASnZT52uBCoLFSJUP9Uaul0QDmNsoA0X4yskHD0XbkhTrn907F9R-6Hy9pxoCrQgQAvD_BwE The U bolts need to have a jaw opening of 3.5 inches, I got 6 inch long ones, the shackle, washer and nut stack up is about 1.5 inches but you need some additional length to get things started. There is plenty of clearance under there. The U bolts should go on at 90 degrees to each other, 2 at each end, as close to the ends of the axle as possible while still allowing some clearance to the torque arms. The U bolts and hardware cost around $75. Of course, there is no way to ever "prove" that this reinforcement solves the axle bending problem, but if it is caused by the axle to frame attachments being too far inboard on the rPods, it should help significantly.   ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Replies:
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 12:10pm
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Looks great! Will you be putting any clamps in the middle?
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 1:20pm
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I don’t plan to, when you load the axle the middle will press down into the reinforcement angle, so clamps shouldnt be needed there. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: crw8sr
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 2:34pm
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Any concern about rust between the axle and the steel bar? ------------- Chuck & Lyn Izzy, Morkie. RIP Zoe Joy & Gracie, Yorkie 2018 R Pod 190 2019 Traverse In moments of adversity;when life's a total wreck, I think of those worse off than me and really feel like heck. |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 3:20pm
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Yes for sure crw8sr, good point. I live on the OBX so I'm constantly fighting salt corrosion on everything. My thought is to seal the angle to the axle with a flexible adhesive sealant. I want to put a few miles on it first in case there is something that needs to be adjusted or modified. Any other suggestions are welcome. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: crw8sr
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 6:08pm
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We have to deal with salt and other chemicals they put on our winter roads. I wonder if Rustoleum would help. I think I'd like to tackle this mod. Do you have pictures of the bar after it was cut and chambered before it was installed? ------------- Chuck & Lyn Izzy, Morkie. RIP Zoe Joy & Gracie, Yorkie 2018 R Pod 190 2019 Traverse In moments of adversity;when life's a total wreck, I think of those worse off than me and really feel like heck. |
Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 6:49pm
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In the past I have used what used to be called "Duro Extend". The product was picked up by Loctite, and is now called http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt_extend/overview/Loctite-Extend-Rust-Neutralizer.htm - Loctite Extend . What I used it on was metal that was already lightly rusted. The stuff goes on and looks milky white, but as it cures, it will turn the rust black. It acts as a primer for paint. I've also used it on raw steel (before rust). ------------- bp 2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2019 at 7:45pm
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Rustoleum makes Rust Reformer in a spray can. It works similarly in that it will convert light rust to a stable, paintable surface. Loose rust must be removed but light surface rust is okay.
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2019 at 7:29am
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crw8sr, I didn't take any photos of the angle before installing it, sorry. But the curvature created by cambering the piece is only 3/8 of an inch so you can't really see it unless you sight down the angle. Otherwise than that its just a piece of 3x3 steel angle. Here is a discussion of camber on trailer axles. http://blog.easternmarine.com/trailer-axle-camber-what-its-all-about/ - http://blog.easternmarine.com/trailer-axle-camber-what-its-all-about/ The Lippert axles come with some positive camber (that's why the center is about 3/8 inch higher than the ends so when they get loaded the camber angle doesn't become too negative. With the larger than normal axle end overhang on the rpods the forces on the axle trying to flatten it out are significantly more than if the mounting points were closer to the ends of the axles. Apparently these axles can often "lose their camber" over time and end up not springing back to their arched shape after sustaining heavy loads. I think the rust reformer is a good option. I need to go over my entire frame, especially the A frame and clean up the rust, so I'll probably remove everything I can, brush and grind it, spray it and then reassemble. I think I'll also seal the edges of the angle to the axle at that time. Another product I use here in the OBX is Fluid Film. Good stuff made from lanolin so nontoxic and won't ruin your clothes. You do have to apply it a couple of times a year because it is water soluble. I use my compressor and spray the bottoms of all my vehicles with it. https://www.fluid-film.com/ - https://www.fluid-film.com/
------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: Motor7
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2019 at 12:54pm
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Here are a couple of thoughts/questions: Do you know what type of steel the Diamond tube is and what kind of annealing they do to it? It should be a type of "spring steel" which seems likely since it is designed to flex, then return to it's original shape. The 3x3 angle is not likely to be spring steel at all and could be just plain old "soft steel". So if and when it bends, it's going to stay in it's new shape. I think there might be a possibility that the two will counter act each other and it might be in a negative way. ------------- 2016 R-Pod 176T |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2019 at 2:40pm
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The modulus of elasticity (which defines deflection in materials) is pretty much the same for all steels. Meaning that for a given structural shape and loading the deflection will be about the same regardless of that kind of steel it is. What changes is the yield strength (which defines at what stress level it will deform and fail to return to its original shape). The angle is regular A36 structural steel which has a minimum yield strength of 36ksi. Some high strength steels are much higher so can they can deflect more before failure. But they're also more expensive and harder to fabricate and weld to. Generally they are used where a lot of deflection is needed (like in springs). I believe that the torsion axle tube is probably the same A36 material or very similar. Why? Because the torsion axle is designed to flex the rubber cords not the axle tube. If the axle tube was designed to flex more there would be issues with the tube to frame attachment and bracket welds, as well as unwanted changes in camber when the the trailer loads change. I did the deflection and yield calcs on the axle tube and its a pretty stiff shape, like most tubes are, its deflection is quite small, as you would want and expect. On the yield side if I assume its A36 then its a little marginal for an over the road vehicle when the axle is fully loaded, also about what we'd expect based on the history of failures. When I did the calcs (roughly, its pretty complicated) for the combined angle and axle tube, still assuming A36, the loading at yield increased by about 50%, well above anything we might expect over the road, so I don't think there's not any reason to think that adding the angle is going to increase failures. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2019 at 3:36pm
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I'm looking forward to reading more and, when I get the opportunity, doing this mod myself. It certainly is less expensive than replacing an axle. What would you think about cleaning both the angle and the axle and then using silicone RTV sealant in the angle so that it is compressed and fills the space between the angle and axle? It would likely take a couple of tubes of sealant to do so. It would also probably be best to paint the angle first and let that cure before doing this as RTV is usually not paintable. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2019 at 4:07pm
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Not sure I'd try to fill the whole void with silicone, it requires exposure to moisture in the air to cure so the interior area might never cure properly. Same with most polyurethane sealants. Maybe some type of 2 part urethane. I was thinking about just running a bead around the edges of the angle. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2019 at 4:21pm
------------- bp 2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost |
Posted By: lostagain
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2019 at 4:28pm
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If a fully filled in watertight space is desired, then how about using something like 3M 5200 bedding compound. Aside from the cost, it may be the best choice. It cures in settings that are not exposed to the air so it may adequately harden in the interior yet still remain reasonably flexible to allow some movement without cracking or letting in moisture. Seems to me another approach would be to paint the axle and the angle iron really well, then provide for some means, like a small tube with holes extending down the inside of the angle to allow water to be sprayed inside from time to time to flush out any accumulated salts. It seems like it'd be a losing battle to try to seal it. And the frame of the Pod is just as exposed to the rust, so flushing off the whole bottom and keeping it well painted may yield better rust protection over the long run. ------------- Never leave footprints behind. Fred & Maria Kearney Sonoma 167RB Our Pod 172 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2019 at 4:37pm
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Yes, good point. In a more benign environment the weep holes would probably work. But if I put weep holes in I'm likely to just get salt water flooding up in there and not be able to wash it out. The more I think about it for me the best bet would probably be to rust treat and paint the surfaces, bolt it up again, and then wash it out, let it dry, and coat everything with Fluid Film a couple of times a year as a water displacement material. I already do that with all the other exposed metal in my vehicles anyway. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2019 at 4:54pm
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+1 ------------- Mike Carter 2015 178 " I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability." |
Posted By: crw8sr
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2019 at 6:14pm
Very scholarly Offgrid!  Reminds me of the first day of calculus class; stomach ache, nausea, blurred vision and a strong desire to sneak out of the classroom. Way over my feeble brain but I think I got the major point. I've put this mod on my to do list. Thanks ------------- Chuck & Lyn Izzy, Morkie. RIP Zoe Joy & Gracie, Yorkie 2018 R Pod 190 2019 Traverse In moments of adversity;when life's a total wreck, I think of those worse off than me and really feel like heck. |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2019 at 5:15am
I actually like calculus, but then I fully admit to being a science nerd.  . BTW calculus isn't required for the axle tube load and deflection calculations, those are simple formulas only. Anyhow I think in practice the first consideration before doing this mod would be to measure your Lippert axle tube length and "crown". Use a string line from end to end along the bottom of the axle tube and measure the gap in the center. Do this with dry tanks and try to minimize load on the axle. If you don't have around 1/4 to 3/8 inch or more upward bend then your axle has already flattened out some. StephenH was good enough to measure the crown in his brand new axle and it was 3/8 inch. Mine was 1/4 inch on my 2015. Our axle loads were roughly the same. Much less crown than that and it should probably either be re-cambered or replaced, especially if you're seeing inboard tire wear. Ask a local shop that specializes in trailer work to see if they can re-camber it. If not or if you have a bent spindle or torque arm, and assuming you plan to keep your trailer, I'd suggest springing for a 5200 lb axle (along with the brakes, drums, and wheels to match). If your axle tube is in good shape but you plan on running your pod heavy then I'd go ahead and get the reinforcing angle made up. Be sure the angle is at least 1/4 inch shorter than the axle tube and is positioned so it doesn't interfere with the torsion arms. Get the crown/camber put in at about 3/8 inch. We know that's about right for a brand new axle. If that's a little more camber than what you currently have on an older axle then that's fine, it won't hurt anything. There are torque specs for the u bolts that you should follow, I think mine were 70 ft-lbs. They should be checked a few times to start out with until you know that they aren't changing. Other than that there is the "water trapping" consideration we've been discussing. Your concern with/solution to that will depend on your local conditions. I'll post what I end up doing for that when I get to that point, but based on the discussion here I think after painting the parts I'm just going to flood the angle with Fluid Film, bolt it up and call it good. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: Motor7
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 10:20am
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OG, I don't know what type of steel the Lippert is made of and I can't seem to find it on the web. I did find this: "There are four types of carbon steel based on the amount of carbon present in the alloy. Lower carbon steels are softer and more easily formed, and steels with a higher carbon content are harder and stronger, but less ductile, and they become more difficult to machine and weld. Below are the properties of the grades of carbon steel we supply:
While you may be right as to them being similar, all I know is that I have cut and welded quite a bit of angle iron in the last 11 years and the stuff I have used I would consider low to medium carbon steel steel. I just cant see them using low or medium steel in a axle tube, but if they do then I understand the infrequent failure. ------------- 2016 R-Pod 176T |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 12:49pm
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Motor7, yep that's exactly what I think, Lippert uses plain old structural steel tubing in these axles. Same with the trailer frame which is also made by Lippert. Look at it from the axle design engineer's perspective. He's probably chosen a 3x3 tube so that he has room in there for the rubber cords that allow the torsion arm to swing. His remaining design choices for the tube are steel grade and wall thickness. He could go with a thinner tube wall and a higher strength steel, but the only thing that would do for him is allow for more flex in the tube before failure. He doesn't need or want more flex, so a thicker wall and a standard strength steel does the job he wants and is cheaper and much more readily available. I wish they had gone up to the next standard thickness in the tube wall but they didn't. Originally they probably didn't need to because they designed it for more outboard mounting points than we have in our rPods. The inboard mounting points reduces the safety factor in the design more than it should according to the loading calculations I did. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 1:17pm
I wonder what the statistics are for axle failures. I don't know if we hear about all of them to be sure it is "infrequent failure." Mine had the problem and the axle was recently replaced. The only miles on it are those from the dealer to my driveway. While our 179 was not fully unloaded when I measured the axle's bend, neither was it loaded to the extent it usually is when we travel. Before we get too many miles on it, I want to do this modification as it will be a whole lot less expensive than replacing the axle was. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2019 at 1:54pm
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I can't imagine there are large numbers of axles failing under warranty, it would have been in Lippert's and FR's financial interest to change the design. Most trailers don't get used that much nor are they that heavily loaded. Many owners with legitimate claims never file them. And failures that happen after the warranty ends or are caused by excluded events aren't financially relevant so aren't counted. These are for profit businesses after all. Manufacturers expect and generally take a reserve for warranty claims (they have to if they're publicly held, which Lippert is). If their actual payouts under warranty claims consistently exceed the planned amount their auditors will require them to take action to investigate why and make changes either in the design, the warranty language, or in the reserve amount. It would be different if the axles fail in a way that results in a life safety risk, but that doesn't appear to be the case. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: Motor7
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2019 at 7:02am
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SH, that sounds more like a factory defect, or a axle damaged in shipping. A completed trailer shipped on a trailer could have been improperly chained or strapped down so tight that the axle could easily be bent.
Completed axles shipped from Lippert to FR could also be damaged by tie down methods. Ever see how they ship then? Dozens stacked 10-12' high, then chained or strapped by any method the driver chooses. As far as numbers, does anyone here have a total of the production run R-Pod since inception? I am just assuming, but I am guessing that number is quite high. ------------- 2016 R-Pod 176T |
Posted By: Motor7
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2019 at 7:07am
I agree about the frame. If you are right, that's not good about the axle. How can our assumptions be confirmed or denied? We need to kidnap a Lippert engineer and metalurgist...😎 ------------- 2016 R-Pod 176T |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2019 at 8:50am
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You would have to either kidnap them or at least catch one after work and buy him enough beers that he forgets about the nondisclosure agreement he signed as a condition of employment. Manufacturers won't let you talk to their design engineers. They aren't trained to deal with the public so they keep them in the back room and feed them peanuts . Why do you think the use of A36 steel for the frame is OK but not for the axle tube? Its a tube that is rigidly bolted to the frame, so you can consider it to be part of the frame structurally, it might as well be welded as part of the frame assembly. Its not like a spring axle which is directly taking the bump loads from the wheels and transmitting them to the springs, which in turn reduce the loads being transmitted to the frame. The torsion arms and torsion bars do that by transmitting those loads to the rubber cords, and the cords are the equivalent of the springs in reducing the bump loads being applied to the axle tube. So, its not like the axle tube "has" to be made of a particular material. It has to do a specific job in terms of its deflection and loading capabilities and a good design will accomplish that (and no more) at the lowest cost. They don't pay design engineers to over design stuff. I've run through the deflection and loading numbers on the tube and its not that bad. In our case the tube has wound up being somewhat shy of what it needs to be in the rPods because of the inboard mounting points. if I was designing it I would be using A36 steel as well, just would have gone with the next higher wall thickness. Adding the angle under the axle tube is the equivalent of increasing the wall thickness. So if you're really worried that adding reinforcement to the existing tube somehow makes things worse and you still want to upgrade the axle then I'd suggest going with a 5200 lb axle. That has a lot of other advantages in terms of a higher rated spindle, torsion arm, rubber cords, brakes, bearings, etc. I'd be interested in knowing what that axle tube size and wall thickness is for comparison. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: Motor7
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2019 at 11:50am
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For sure, if I ever have a failure, I would most certainly replace with a 5200 lb-er. One has to wonder then how the ride would be affected by that swap.
I rear somewhere that these 3500 lb Lippert axles are actually 5k ones and downgraded for the RPods. I have no idea of it's true, or just wishfull thinking. As for your A36 question, the frame takes nowhere near the abuse the axle takes. Making it in a diamond profile is their solution to make it stronger than the square frame tube. ------------- 2016 R-Pod 176T |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2019 at 1:22pm
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I think the ride would be fine with the 5200 lb axle. I’d be concerned if it was a cargo trailer but travel trailers are never exactly lightly loaded. The Lippert axles in the pods are their 3500 lb series according to the part numbers on them. The lightest rpods appear to have 3500 lb ones derated to 3000.
Actually on a heavy rpod with a high tongue weight running a wdh the frame around the area where the a frame ties to the main frame rails is subject to load levels very similar to the axle tube. I would keep a careful eye on that area as well. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2019 at 3:33pm
Ours was not bent (excess camber) until after last Spring's trip out west. I think bouncing around Chicago area roads with tanks that were getting full from use probably did not help. Those were some of the worst roads I have driven on since we purchased our 179. That includes returning from the factory at Goshen after it was repaired following our accident. One other change on this trip was the change from the Equal-i-zer hitch to the Hensley Cub hitch. I'm not sure if the way it is set up if it is transferring more weight to the trailer axle compared to what the Equal-i-zer transferred. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2019 at 3:58pm
Any differences in trailer axle load should be pretty small between different wdh's assuming the same TV and trailer loads and that you've got them set up the same way, bringing the load on the TV front axle back to where it was before connecting the trailer. To estimate how much load a wdh is transferring to the TV front and trailer axles you can use this calculator. Once you have your weights and dimensions set up you can adjust the wdh tension so that the front axle load is the same with the trailer as it is with the trailer weight set to 1 lb (the calculator blows up if you set the trailer weight to zero). For me it adds about 150 lbs. Not insignificant but also not a huge increase. http://www.ajdesigner.com/apptrailertow/weightdistributionhitch.php - http://www.ajdesigner.com/apptrailertow/weightdistributionhitch.php ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2019 at 8:24am
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Any updates on performance of the reinforced axle or have you not made any trips yet?
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: lostagain
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2019 at 9:06am
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Hey Toyanvil how are your axle reinforcement brackets working out? It looks like they should really solve the problem of the distance between the frame and the wheels from a lay persons point of view. Heck, your fix may be worth patenting before some manufacturer subcontracts a Chinese metal fabricator to mass produce them. ------------- Never leave footprints behind. Fred & Maria Kearney Sonoma 167RB Our Pod 172 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost |
Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2019 at 9:28am
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Toyanvil's solution sure looks like a fine fix, but for the time and dollars involved, I think the "splint" that offgrid did would probably be all that anyone actually needs. Yes, that is an opinion. ------------- bp 2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 26 Apr 2019 at 10:35am
No trips yet this year, life is getting in the way of camping for me this spring unfortunately. Just some local short tows so far, back and forth to the "high" ground I park my rig on to avoid flooding from the nor'easters. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 30 May 2019 at 8:57pm
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I am working on my axle reinforcement. I did a write-up in my mods with pictures of what I have so far. I hope to get it installed tomorrow. If not tomorrow, Saturday. This is the specific link for the post: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712&PID=124418&title=our-escapod-mods#124418 - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712&PID=124418&title=our-escapod-mods#124418 ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 31 May 2019 at 5:30am
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Looks good so far, keep us posted. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2019 at 9:10am
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The axle reinforcement project is finished. I have a picture in my mods. I hope to be able to test it on the road soon. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |