Fridge doesn't work on propane, no clicks or gas f
Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: I need HELP!!!
Forum Discription: Perplexed/need help with a problem - ask here
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=13125
Printed Date: 27 Apr 2024 at 4:42pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Fridge doesn't work on propane, no clicks or gas f
Posted By: Bovine0001
Subject: Fridge doesn't work on propane, no clicks or gas f
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2019 at 9:00pm
|
I've had my pod for 4 years now. It's a 2014 178. The fridge has worked fine but last weekend the propane part of the fridge stopped working.
The fridge beeps with warnings, it does not click the igniter and does not flow gas into burner. Gas flows to everything else just fine. I tried lighting the gas manually at the burner. Didn't work. I took apart the gas line from the solenoid to the burner and it is clean. The are no spider webs. I think a control board could be bad, since it is not turning on the solenoid or igniter. Wondering how to diagnose and fix or bypass the controller. Thanks ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |
Replies:
Posted By: Motor7
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 6:05am
|
The igniter works on 12v. Make sure that your battery is working properly and the 12v fuse on the panel for the fridge is good.
I don't know how to trouble shoot the board. If it is indeed bad, look at Dinasour replacement boards....they have a very good rep. Also, I bet they can tell you how to test it. https://www.rvshop.com/Dinosaur-Electronics_bymfg_137-0-1.html ------------- 2016 R-Pod 176T |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 7:04am
|
I assume that the fridge is working OK on 12V electric? Here are the manuals. The installation manual has a schematic. The operations manual decodes the alarms. I would start by pulling 12V power to the fridge to reset the circuit board, then be sure its getting 12V after you reconnect. If it doesn't start on gas after that then you could confirm your theory that the controls are bad by seeing if you're getting 12V to the gas solenoid valve immediately after you put it in gas mode. If it doesn't light it should lock out so check it right away, or reset it again. If the solenoid isn't getting 12V then the burner controller probably needs to be replaced. Check the alarm codes too.
https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/food-and-beverage/mobile-refrigeration/rv-refrigerators/dometic-rm-8501-_-31159#documentation - https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/food-and-beverage/mobile-refrigeration/rv-refrigerators/dometic-rm-8501-_-31159#documentation ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: Bovine0001
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 7:31am
|
A reset is a good idea. I did pull the fuse to the fridge, but didn't leave it out a long time. I can try that again and wait 30 minutes. Heck, maybe disconnecting the battery would be better. ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 20 Aug 2019 at 7:43am
|
Shouldn't take that long to reset but it can't hurt. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2019 at 11:44am
|
We just had this issue but with our furnace. Same scenario, igniter not clicking and no gas flow. Turned out the igniter had to be replaced. Furnace had to be pulled as they did a bunch of testing to figure out why no gas flow, apparently with the igniter having puked, it wouldn't allow the gas to flow out from the valve.
------------- God's pod '11 model 177 '17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake "...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free." |
Posted By: Bovine0001
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 1:42pm
|
Update, disconnected the power. Didn't help. I'm off to check things with the multimeter.
If my control board is bad, I wonder how hard it would be to bypass it and light it manually? ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 4:53pm
|
Might not be too hard (it would likely only take jumping 12V to the gas valve) but it would be unsafe beyond a carefully monitored test. You don't want the gas flow to be on if the flame is not. There looks like there are both a control board and a burner controller. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: fwunder
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 5:09pm
|
My igniter wires came loose once. They are just black and red push in plugs. Worth checking. I don't remember getting an alarm, though. fred ------------- 2014 RPod 178 => https://goo.gl/CV446f - MyMods and Buying Habits 2008 4Runner Limited 4.0-liter V6 Yes, those are wild ponies dining on grass while dumping tanks! |
Posted By: Bovine0001
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2019 at 8:23pm
|
So, the board is bad. Electric output to the gas valve is almost 0. And, there is no power coming off board to the igniter too.
But, the electric works. I'm gonna buy a voltage regulator to power the valve directly. Much cheaper than a new control board. probably need a fuse too ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 7:31am
|
Why do you need a voltage regulator, the gas solenoid ought to work on 12V directly from the battery (via a fuse of course)? If you do what I think you're suggesting, bypassing the control board permanently when on propane, then consider that you will be manually lighting the fridge and if the flame blows out your gas flow will not shut off. You will also lose the ability to regulate the fridge temperature while on propane. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: Bovine0001
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 7:46am
So most solenoids tend to be low voltage and current. In this case, it's 1.5v. It's my understanding that while on propane, it doesn't really turn off. I think the temp control is more for shore connections. I'm told the older rv fridges were operated manually like this, turn it on and light it. In terms of blowing out, it is a very protected flame and only has a little bit of gas flow. It's not like the water heater with high gas flow and needs to be turned on and off regularly. ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 9:02am
|
Ok, got it on the 1.5V. You'd want a dc-dc converter for that. There are also lots of 12V solenoids available if you wanted to go that route. If you're just going to turn the gas on and off manually anyway you could also remove the solenoid entirely and install a manual gas valve. That would also give you a way to adjust the flame to get more or less the temp you wanted in the fridge I don't know on the current Dometics if the gas shuts off when the flame is out or not, I certainly hope so. I've had several older Dometic gas fridges over the years in different RV's. They had manual hold down buttons to flow gas to get the flame started. If the flame went out or failed to start then they would shut off the gas, like a pilot light shutoff on a household gas appliance. They also had manual gas flow adjustment so you could control the temp in the fridge. The flame would be off fairly frequently in those old fridges, but the gas would shut off. If it was me, I would not want to depend on the flame staying lit to avoid a propane leak. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: podwerkz
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 10:07am
Mine does. When the interior temp is at the set temp the flame goes out. When the thermistor and control board calls for it, the flame re-lights. ------------- r･pod 171 gone but not forgotten! |
Posted By: Bovine0001
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 10:21am
|
Good point, Offgrid, on the valve replacement.
I wonder how the system detects gas flow, in order to turn it off? I guess I'm trying to avoid buying a new control board, seeing as it still runs the electric part just fine. Especially when I can do a little work around for 10 bucks, versus 150-200. And, since I only use propane a few times a year, I can handle checking flame to make sure it stays lit. That said, I'll probably replace the board eventually.... ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |
Posted By: Bovine0001
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 10:24am
Thanks. Good to know. Just ran my fridge all night on gas, wasn't too cold, so it might take a long time before it gets too cold. ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |
Posted By: Bovine0001
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 10:59am
|
Oh, and figuring out which board to replace the current one is maddening! Everyone sells dinosaur boards, but doesn't give a list of compatible parts. ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 12:24pm
|
They sense the gas flow by the presence of flame. The older units have a thermocouple that is positioned in the flame and holds the gas valve open as long as it is heated. If the flame goes out it cools down quickly and shuts off. The button you hold in while lighting bypasses that and keeps the valve open, so you have to keep pressing it for awhile after the flame is lit. The generic term for these are millivolt controllers, gas water heaters and fireplaces have them as well. If you're thinking about replacing the control board anyway there is no time like the present. Its safer, saves the time and money tinkering with a temporary solution, and you would I think end up wanting to do it before you eventually sell the trailer anyway. I wouldn't want to think about the liability that you'd pick up if you sold it with a bypassed propane system and the future owner ever had a problem  ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: Bovine0001
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 12:39pm
|
Yeah, definitely need to fix before I sell it. But, as we've been chatting, I've been trying to look up control boards and I've had a real hard time finding a replacement. I can't find a seller WITH a compatible part list. ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 3:55pm
|
Looks like from the schematic that there are two cb's, the main control board and the gas igniter. Do you know which one is bad? Have you tried calling Dinosaur with your model number and asked them? Also you might check out this link: https://www.justanswer.com/rv-motorhome/a69mn-looking-control-board-rm8501-already.html - https://www.justanswer.com/rv-motorhome/a69mn-looking-control-board-rm8501-already.html Good luck and please let us know what you wind up with.... ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: Bovine0001
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2019 at 5:53pm
|
Thanks Offgrid. I'll check in later. ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |
Posted By: john in idaho
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 10:13am
| I presume you did check for wasp nests and spider webs ? |
Posted By: Pod People
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2019 at 8:01am
|
We had a control board problem that ended up being both boards were bad. apparently when one goes, it can take the other one out also. I don't remember which one is first -but they both needed to be replaced. We were not able to find suitable replacement after market boards and the dometic boards through a dealer totaled almost $900. we ended up replacing the entire refrigerator. Vann ------------- Vann & Laura 2015 RPod 179 https://postimg.cc/0zwKrfB9"> 
|
Posted By: Bovine0001
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2019 at 12:27pm
Yeesh! Here is hoping this doesn't happen. I presume you mean the board with the controls up front and the board running the rest in the back. I think the board on the front is fine, as it is behaving right. Hard to tell otherwise. ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |
Posted By: Bovine0001
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2019 at 8:52am
|
Update. Dinosaur Electronics says I have a European model, they can't help. So I call Dometic. They can ship me a replacement board for 300 bucks. Hitting Google for a better price only makes it worse at 500 bucks.
Any thoughts? ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2019 at 9:18am
|
Dometic must think their circuit boards are made of platinum or unobtainium. Still, its cheaper than a new fridge. Other than just biting the bullet and replacing the board there is a chance that a visual inspection might turn up something you can fix. Look for corrosion, especially at the terminals and connectors, loose connectors, and burn spots and cold solder joints on the board. You could also see if anyone has or will be replacing their frdige for another reason and you could buy/beg their board from them. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: metaldpod
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2019 at 10:17am
|
I'll throw this in here but not sure if it is relevant since we have a 179. When we first got our trailer we used the electric only on the fridge for quite a while. On one of our outings we wanted to use the propane for the fridge but we could not get it to work. After returning we brought it back to the dealer and they found that the gas line hose had become kinked due to the slide out going in and out and had to be re-routed. After this it worked with no problem. I can't remember if there was an alarm with this or not. Just a possibility.... ------------- David and Vicki Snyder, 2015 R179, 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee |
Posted By: podwerkz
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2019 at 10:32am
Oh yeah.....European Models are always gonna be expensive.  ------------- r･pod 171 gone but not forgotten! |
Posted By: Bovine0001
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2019 at 7:31am
|
I agree on all your points, Offgrid. This is turning into an off season project real fast. Might be using a cooler for now.... ------------- 2014 Rpod 178 Mods in Order: 1: Added USB charging port 2: Added Spigot at Fresh Water to make easy empty 3: Solar Panel 4: Cut dinette bench panel to improve access underneath |