Print Page | Close Window

Wintering question

Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: I need HELP!!!
Forum Discription: Perplexed/need help with a problem - ask here
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=13222
Printed Date: 26 Apr 2024 at 7:50am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Wintering question
Posted By: JoeSaint
Subject: Wintering question
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2019 at 8:11pm
2020 171, I drained low point, drained heater and never use the fresh water tank but took cap off anyway. Before I blow it out, do you close heater bypass or put anode back in? Also do you leave anode rod out for winter? Thx



Replies:
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2019 at 8:31pm
The water heater should be in bypass mode.  It's a good idea to put the anode back in, maybe just loosely, to keep critters out.

TT


-------------
2010 176
FJ Cruiser


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2019 at 9:31pm
The only purpose for the bypass valves is to prevent antifreeze solution from filling the WH during winterization. If you use air to blow out the system there's no real use for the bypass valves. I would leave them in the normal position until you get all water blown out of hot and cold pipes. They must be in normal position and the anode in place to properly blow out the hot water pipes and faucets. You could then open the cross valve just to keep it from accumulating water. The more open valves the better during storage, including the low point caps. Be sure to reset next Spring. 

-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2019 at 10:22pm
Charlie, your line of thinking is why I suggested bypassing the water heater.  With  the WH bypassed there's no air getting past the bypass valves and out the anode opening.  No need to blow out the WH with the anode removed.  And with the WH bypassed all of the hot (and cold) pipes can be blown out.  I don't see why you say the WH valves need to be in their normal (meaning summer) positions to blow out the hot water lines.

TT


-------------
2010 176
FJ Cruiser


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 8:07am
Originally posted by Tars Tarkas

Charlie, your line of thinking is why I suggested bypassing the water heater.  With  the WH bypassed there's no air getting past the bypass valves and out the anode opening.  No need to blow out the WH with the anode removed.  And with the WH bypassed all of the hot (and cold) pipes can be blown out.  I don't see why you say the WH valves need to be in their normal (meaning summer) positions to blow out the hot water lines.

TT

Tars,
After careful consideration and a little thinking....YOU'RE RIGHT Approve. Air will blow through the cross valve and blow out all the hot pipes. A temporary disconnect between the headphones. That said I still like all valves open. Depending on how a valve is oriented, any residual water that collects or drains back could freeze in the valve and crack it. I agree on the WH. A bit of water remaining on the bottom will do no harm.

Thanks for fact checking me.


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: JoeSaint
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 8:28pm
I may have to check tomorrow to see if I’m closing the right valve on the heater. But I blew it out with the water heater bypassed, (I think). I noticed that I wouldn’t get anything out of the hot water in sink and faucet in wet bath. So I opened the valve on heater along with putting anode rod back in and did it again and got a small spatter of water on hot side. Next will be rev antifreeze 


Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 9:45pm
Make sure you know how to turn the valves on the water heater.  In case you don't know, you do not want antifreeze in the water heater or the fresh water tank.  There are plenty of people who can help if you have any questions.

TT


-------------
2010 176
FJ Cruiser


Posted By: JoeSaint
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2019 at 8:08pm
I had closed only one of the valves, the bottom one. I closed off both to bypass the heater and blew it out one more time. Then I ran RA thru lines and into drains. I think it went well. Do I leave the low point drains open or closed..


Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2019 at 10:00pm
The protocol for antifreeze is to first get as much water out of the sytem as possible.  Pump off, open all valves, remove the caps from the low point drains and the fresh water tank.  Let the water run out.  (The method is different for blowing air out under pressure.)  With all pressure relieved from the system, remove the anode from the water heater, let it drain.  Put the WH bypass valves in the winter bypass positions.  Don't guess.  Different Pods have different bypass methods.  For most older Pods the outer valves are closed and the middle valve is open.

With all water out of the system, close all valves and cap the low point drains.  Put the antifreeze suction hose in a jug of antifreeze, open the valve on the suction hose, turn on the pump.  Now it's handy to have a helper.  As the antifreeze is sucked up, opne one valve at a time until pink starts coming out.  Sink hot, sink cold, shower hot... outside shower, toilet.  It might take more than one jug of antifreeze.  Turn off pump, close the suction hose valve.  Poor a little antifreeze in the toilet and leave it.  Pour about a cup in the shower and sink(s) traps.

Some people do nothing more than blow out all of the lines.  The bottom line is, however you do it, all water must be out of the lines and valves.  Either way, antifreeze in the toilet and traps is important.

TT


-------------
2010 176
FJ Cruiser


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2019 at 3:01pm
TT is correct as usual.  For the past 7 years after blowing out the lines with compressed air I measure a total of 16 oz. RV antifreeze and pour into the 2 sink and 1 shower trap on my 177.  I leave a little left  to pour into the toilet, to keep the seal moist throughout the winter months.  So here I am on year 8 finally going to use up my 1 gallon of RV antifreeze that I purchased in 2012 for 79 cents.  Don't even have a clue what RV antifreeze costs now but am sure it will be more than what I paid for it 8 years ago.

-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: TearlessTom
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2019 at 4:40pm
Hey guys I know I live in the south  and this seems like a silly question but what kind of anti-freeze are y'all talking about.  I've never seen any in the RV section of Walmart. Haven't really gone to any dedicated RV stores.

I'm pretty sure you are not talking pet friendly auto anti-freeze.  We are having a cold snap now. Getting to low 40's at night. I think I am safe without it. 



-------------
Tearless Tom
2017 R-Pod 180
2014 Ford F-150 XLT 2WD 5.0


Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2019 at 5:15pm
You're probably fine with out it where you are but NO, you do NOT want to use auto antifreeze.  What you want is clearly labeled RV antifreeze.  It usually $3 a gallon, plus or minus.  You don't want to drink it but you won't die if there's some residue left in the pipes after you flush it out of the system in the spring.

TT


-------------
2010 176
FJ Cruiser


Posted By: Kup-Pod
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2019 at 9:00pm
One of the things to keep in mind is where you live and what your winter is going to be like.  We can get periods of time here where we can reach -30 to -40 so for that reason I always bypass the water heater, drain it by removing the anode (and then put it in loosely as already noted), do a flush of everything with RV antifreeze including the flush line for the black tank.
Also, don't forget the outside shower, so often people overlook this and end up cracking the valve.
I just returned from storing our RPod for the winter. Perfect timing since as I drove away from storage I encountered a major snowfall and slush covered roads.  Yes, winter is coming! :-(




-------------
2017 RP-178
2021 F150 5.0l
"Lead me on a level path"


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2019 at 9:31am
You don't even need to go to Camping World to get it. If you have a Home Depot nearby, you can order it online and pick it up at the store.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Uni-Gard-50-Uni-Proof-Anti-Freeze-132705/202994610 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Uni-Gard-50-Uni-Proof-Anti-Freeze-132705/202994610

https://www.homedepot.com/p/PEAK-128-fl-oz-RV-and-Marine-Anti-Freeze-PER0A3/307296905 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/PEAK-128-fl-oz-RV-and-Marine-Anti-Freeze-PER0A3/307296905






-------------
bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2019 at 1:58pm
I buy mine at O'Reilly's or Auto Zone. NAPA has it too.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2019 at 5:56pm
Was at Menard's yesterday to pick up a couple things and lo and behold a sale on the pink RV antifreeze, only $ 1.97/gallon.  So I picked one up; now I will be good for another 8 years.  I was pleasantly surprised that it is only $ 1.20 more than what I paid for my last gallon 8 years ago.  OTOH that is a price increase of over 100% ouch.

-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."



Print Page | Close Window

Bulletin Board Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2009 Web Wiz - http://www.webwizguide.com