If you aren't removing the battery from the Pod and you're thinking of plugging in a charger, just plug the Pod into 120v and let the converter/charger keep the battery topped off.  It's a very good charger.  That's what I do.

In the event of a converter failure, if you don't already have something else, you can pick up a charger at any Walmart or auto parts store any time.

TT

Like I said Sunday when we met up, I'll bring my little over or pass it to your wife (she mentioned coming by to have coffee or something w/Colette).

Way too funny that your Jeepinator and I didn't know it!

Thanks OD!  

I have also been considering LiFePO4.  I have 2  - 12 volt deep cycles and I really want the weight reduction and increased usable AMPS.  AS I understand it, you can run Lithium batteries down to 10% without damaging the battery vs 50% for wet batteries.

Do you have any concerns around very cold weather?  Seems like today’s lithium’s will withstand cold better.

My concerns are less since I located the battery inside the RPod. My mods have pictures of where I put it. Since it is inside, it is better protected, both from weather and from being taken.

The battery I purchased specifies a lower temperature for discharging is okay, but for charging, it needs to be greater than 32F.  The battery management system should disable charging for temperatures that are too low. By putting it inside, it should stay above that temperature as if we are in it, then we would have heat. When we are not using it, I can turn off the battery cut-off switch to isolate the battery. It would take over a year for the battery to self-discharge. However, if I did not disconnect it, then the parasitic power drains would draw it down in much less time. While we are at home, I can keep the RPod plugged in so the converter is actually supplying the electrical needs of the RPod. The WF8950L2-MBA that I installed in place of the WF-8955-MBA does not have the three stage charge. It has just two stages. One is similar to the bulk charge of the old converter in that it is about 4.6V. Then it drops to 3.6V. It is not technically a "float" charge as LiFePO4 batteries do not require one.

The battery I purchased is less expensive than the Battle Born one which has perhaps the longest warranty, but at a price of over $200 more.

I have also been considering LiFePO4.  I have 2  - 12 volt deep cycles and I really want the weight reduction and increased usable AMPS.  AS I understand it, you can run Lithium batteries down to 10% without damaging the battery vs 50% for wet batteries.

Do you have any concerns around very cold weather?  Seems like today’s lithium’s will withstand cold better.

True you can run them lower, as much as 10%, yet your still better off not going as low in a cycle. Same idea with all batteries, not running them down to suggested low. 

If temperature is the concern while traveling... Lipo's are safe inside the cabin extending the temp range a bit. If talking storage: Bring them inside! They make a great UPS for those Mains lost during the winter!

Don't confuse  battery capacity with storage longevity. Lead acid batteries have less capacity when they're cold but they will last much longer stored cold than warm. That is bacuse cold temps greatly slow down the internal battery corrosion rate.

The only problem with cold storage of PBA batts is if you don't maintain a charge on them, then they can freeze. But you don't need to charge them very often if its cold, as Jato's case shows,  because their self discharge rate is also much lower when cold. 

Originally posted by StephenH That would work, but again, if you are leaving your RPod plugged in, the question is , why purchase something to do what the converter in the RPod does already? ......

I agree, but that is what he asked for and it is cheaper than the nearest BatteryTender. 

I do not have electricity in my storage location, but I have a battery cut-off.  So I use a 25 watt solar panel and a BatteryTender charge controller, both from Amazon.  I have a very happy 13.2V battery on just a few hours a day of sun.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q820UK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IFJ73X4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The controller is stuck to the back of the panel with double-sided tape and covered with Flex-seal tape.  Bob's your uncle! 

Okay. While the standard charger will "work" in the sense that it could at least partially charge the LiFePO4 battery, it does not work in that the charging profile is for Pb-Acid batteries. LiFePO4 batteries charge at 14.4V. Once charged, they do not have a float charge.

I purchased the https://www.campingworld.com/wfco-wf-8950l2-mba-rv-power-converter-replacement-main-board-118304.html - WF-8950L2-MBA from Camping World for $219.99 plus my local sales tax. Shipping was free. It was easy to change the converter mainboard. The 8950L2-MBA has the proper charging profile for LiFePO4 batteries. However, it would not be suitable for PB-Acid batteries. I understand Progress has one that can be programmed so one could go back and forth. That capability would come at a higher price though. Check out https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-8950l2-mba/ - WFCO's site for more information also. Since the last time I looked, a new power panel was added, the WF-8955LiS which allows one to switch back and forth between PB-Acid and LiFePO4 batteries. However, that would mean swapping out the complete panel.