https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXNYA73rCNE - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXNYA73rCNE

We use Command hooks and fasteners.  There's a variety of styles and strengths.  Home improvement stores have them as does Amazon.  They work well.

https://www.command.com/3M/en_US/command/ - https://www.command.com/3M/en_US/command/

Sounds like this Command brand is highly recommended, and it looks like they are available from Walmart, Lowe's, Home Depot, and other big box stores.  

Thank you for the feedback.  Stay safe.............   I hope we get to go camping this year.  

Also note that something that weighs 10 lbs will effectively weigh 20-25 in a trailer going down a bumpy road, so plan accordingly.

Forgot about the ride down the road potentially making items heavier and knocking them off the wall.  Maybe we take everything done before we go down the rood......

Have you ever tried to use a standard stud finder to locate wood or metal 'studs' (or whatever the correct term used for trailers is...........)?  Guess I'll give it a go when we finally get the trailer to our home. 

Appreciate your thoughts..............  

You might not need that though, you can know pretty close where to look if you review the construction videos, mostly the aluminum frames the doors and windows. Use a tiny drill bit to make a pilot hole, worst thing that happens is you seal up the little hole with a bit caulk. Don't drill all the way through the wall though, its only an inch. 

Just for fun, before posting this, I weighed our 10" Lodge cast iron skillet.  It weighed 5 lbs.  I'd never hang something like that on a trailer wall, even with a fastener going into the aluminum frame.  Aluminum is famous for giving way to constant pressure, I think they call it cold flow, and eventually the fastener would likely pull out.  For things of that weight and up, I'd want it through bolted with washers or multiple fasteners all attached to a structural element.  

I've used this product on a number of applications and it's VERY strong.  Don't expect it to ever come off and plan accordingly.  I haven't used it yet in my Pod.  I got mine from Amazon.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/vhb-tapes-us/ - https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/vhb-tapes-us/

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Heavy-Mounting-Multiple-Sizes/dp/B01EOEW25S - https://www.amazon.com/3M-Heavy-Mounting-Multiple-Sizes/dp/B01EOEW25S

It sounds like there are some very strong tapes that will do the job - but we better be sure where we want things attached !!!     

lostagain, cold flow (aka creep)  is a phenomenon that occurs with some materials when they are subject to mechanical stress at elevated temperatures. That is what the problem has been with Al household wiring from the 70's. Poorly designed and installed electrical terminations get hot from the current flow and then the Al creeps, getting looser and looser until the terminations wind up catching fire.

That shouldn't be a problem with mechanical fasteners at normal temps. Another property of Al can be a problem with those. Steel has a fatigue limit, meaning that stresses imposed below that level don't cause fracture (crack) propagation. Aluminum has no fatigue limit, so even low stress levels can cause crack propagation, just more slowly. That's why Al aircraft parts often have life limits, but they're usually in the range of tens of thousands of hours. 

In reality, neither of these is likely to be a concern with hanging stuff on the aluminum structure of your rPod. The parts aren't under a lot of stress to being with and the over the road stresses don't go on for a long time. 

If I wanted to hang something heavy to the outer walls I would attach it to the Al tubes, and I'd use multiple self tapping fasteners as suggested. There are specs for fastener shear and pullout strength depending on material type and thickness, or you could do a couple of pullout tests on your fastener of choice in the same material and use that information to decide how many to use. Typical good practice would be to use a 2 or 3x safety factor on top of the 2 to 2.5x bump load increase, so around 6-8x as much fastener strength as the weight of the thing you're hanging. 

As for 3M tapes, these like the Command ones  use adhesives that are in the family of pressure sensitive adhesives (PSA's). They can work well if you are careful to control application conditions, but they can also fail really badly if not applied right, if temperatures are out of range, or if surfaces you are attaching are not compatible or properly prepared. Take a look at the wikipedia article on them for example.

Personally I don't trust the adhesive tapes for anything important, especially in one off or field applications where you're not sure you're getting things perfect.  I once had a whole 250 kilowatt solar array that someone had the bright idea to attach with VHB tape come apart in a windstorm. Broken glass everywhere. Give me nice properly engineered mechanical fasteners anytime, they are much more tolerant of imperfect application conditions than the PSA tapes are. Our use both, can't hurt. 

The other thing you can do is attach your stuff to a closet wall where you have access to the other side so you can add backing material and reinforcement that will end up concealed. Then you can attach whatever you want.

Ford is now using adhesive and rivets on their new aluminum bodied trucks from 3M.  I hope the chemists and engineers got it right.  

There is safety in numbers, so there are lower safety factors that mechanical and structural engineers can use with multiple fastener systems. Most wood construction works like that, multiple fasteners avoid the risk of any one being into a weak spot in say a joist or beam.

I'm sure Ford knows what they're doing and I'm not knocking adhesives, they are great in a factory environment where everything is under tight control and you can have confidence that application is consistent.  In a one off or field application not so much. 

We had an adhesion problem in the solar module manufacturing line in one of the solar companies I worked for. After working perfectly for years all of a sudden one day the clear plastic encapsulant in the module laminates stopped sticking to the glass. You could peel off the solar cells and the whole back of the module with your fingers. Everyone freaked out, factory shut down. Not good. 

Turned out that the glass manufacturer slightly changed the type of coating on the tiny plastic beads that they put between the glass sheets to keep them from sticking together. Even though we washed the glass that was enough to mess with the surface chemistry of the glass and cause things to fall apart that used to stick like crazy. All we had to do was to change the type of soap we used in the glass washer, that activated the glass surface and the stuff went back to sticking like crazy. Took awhile to figure that out though. 

Point being that you have to know what you're doing and keep everything in control when relying on adhesives. Fasteners can be screwed up too but its usually obvious when that happens.

So, several folks have mentioned the use of metal fasteners, self-tapping fasteners, etc. into structural elements of the trailer.  I have only ever used simple sheet metal self-tapping screws, like this one.  Are there others you recommend?   

I've used Everbilt Hollow Wall Anchors, #5-32 x 1 in. I had purchased these at Home Depot, but they appear to have been discontinued as I cannot find them on the HD web site. They work well and will not go through the outside wall. They are rated for 85 lbs in drywall. In the RPod, they would not be as sturdy, but they still would hold quite well, especially if they were put into one of the framing members.

From the package:

UPC is 8 87480 03782 1

HD stock # is 147694

SKU is 121 206

When are you gonna take that 'first trip'?

10 years is a long time to wait.